nanoreefer22

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I'd think that immediately taking away a lot of the nutrients/food in the water would have the opposite effect and have the corals start getting lighter and lighter due to lack of food.

I think they went brown simply cause of all the stress of multiple dippings and getting moved from tank to rubber maid back into a new tank.
 

Dace

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jon, when i was buying frags like from the frag swap before my tank crashed, i dipped all new corals for about 5 to 8 mins. and not only did they brown out. they browned out all the other corals in my frag tank.

jhale said:
from all the other reports I've read the dip does cause coral to turn brown.

the corals were dipped prior to being placed in the tank. ALL the old rock including what the coral was attached was not used in the main tank. It's all new base rock. The corals were chiseled off the rock where needed.

I would say it was no more than a day for the coral to turn brown after being dipped, some of them sooner than that.
 

jhale

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Daceman89 said:
jon, when i was buying frags like from the frag swap before my tank crashed, i dipped all new corals for about 5 to 8 mins. and not only did they brown out. they browned out all the other corals in my frag tank.

Yes I know, I want to know why this happens.
 

ShaunW

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spykes said:
any type of iodine treatment will brown out a acro.
Dave answered this question, but Jon asked me to respond also. Iodine penetrates cells and remains within. Its disinfecting characteristics arise from its ability to substitute for covalently bound hydrogens in compounds containing -OH, -NH, -SH, or CH functional groups. These groups can not only be part of the solvent or other constituents of the formula, but also of the material to be disinfected such as skin, mucous membranes, bacteria, etc.

It's natural color is brown, hence if you pour iodine on any living tissue it will turn it brown due to is association with proteins, and other molecules. It's ability to be removed requires time.
 

jhale

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solbby said:
Iodine penetrates cells and remains within. Its disinfecting characteristics arise from its ability to substitute for covalently bound hydrogens in compounds containing -OH, -NH, -SH, or CH functional groups. These groups can not only be part of the solvent or other constituents of the formula, but also of the material to be disinfected such as skin, mucous membranes, bacteria, etc.

It's natural color is brown, hence if you pour iodine on any living tissue it will turn it brown due to is association with proteins, and other molecules. It's ability to be removed requires time.

thank you, that's what I wanted to know.
Can I get some of the blue stain :shhh:
And Dave did not answer the question with the same detail :irked:
 

meschaefer

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jhale said:
I would say it was no more than a day for the coral to turn brown after being dipped, some of them sooner than that.

If the iodine was acting as a stain (whcih i am very willing to beleive, and I don't beleive I didn't catch onto that possibility sooner as I have had an iodine stain on my hand for the last two days) wouldn't the corals have turned brown immediately?

In addition to the statement from Jhale above, someone else indicated that the browning of their corals spread to other undipped corals in their tank? Which if true, or at least an accurate observation, how would a stain spread?
 

jhale

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well, there's the stain effect, then there's the effect of increased iodine in a closed system. that's what I was wondering about as well, as in Daves case with his frag tank.
 

Dace

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well in my case all i can think that happened was that i have a pretty small frag tank which was holding at the time some frags from my current stock (about 12 to 12 frags) which were not be browned out. then i came home with about 15 to 20 frags from the frag swap and dipped them all for a while then put them in the frag tank. with that quantity of frags all in a small area practically right on top of each other like a stain i'm assuming that the frags just leaked into the tank and browned everything else. the funny thing is that the frag tank is hooked up to my main diplay water and the corals in my display did not brown out
jhale said:
well, there's the stain effect, then there's the effect of increased iodine in a closed system. that's what I was wondering about as well, as in Daves case with his frag tank.
 

ShaunW

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meschaefer said:
If the iodine was acting as a stain (whcih i am very willing to beleive, and I don't beleive I didn't catch onto that possibility sooner as I have had an iodine stain on my hand for the last two days) wouldn't the corals have turned brown immediately?
Definately! Stains are taken up almost immediately by cells. Their hallmarks are their ability to cross plasma membranes and extracellular spaces.

I have used TMPP before and the corals turn brown almost immediately.
meschaefer said:
In addition to the statement from Jhale above, someone else indicated that the browning of their corals spread to other undipped corals in their tank? Which if true, or at least an accurate observation, how would a stain spread?
Dave (daceman) gave a good explaination above. Also remember we don't really know what is competely in the product as active and inactive ingredients, so maybe one of those compounds also act to brown out the coral. Without knowing the exact compound you could never predict how this may happen.
 
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arconom

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Jhale I have been using TMPCC for some time now. I notice the same thing, But most of all I notice a lose of good PE. The one thing that I have noticed is I need 2-2 1/2 the dosage for the AEFW to be effected.

Since I have found out I do have AEFW I can tell you TMPCC major flaw is the fact it gives you a false sense of security. After attending the Manhatten Frag swap I treated all of my corals with TMPCC and interceptor, and did in fact STILL get AEFW's... There must have been some eggs thats all I can think of.

Also the fact that double the dosage is needed since I took a frag I thought was infected (Tri Color Valida) and treated it first with 1 squirt. Some did come off after 15 minutes but for the heck of it I did double the dosage and even more came off a colony I thought had no AEFW.

Knowing this I took a Vermiculta I had and treated it with 1 squirt, nothing came off in 15 minutes. So for the heck of it I did another squirt making it a total of 2 squirts. This is what got them to come off a colony I had no idea had them.

Since this high dosage just about killed the coral I have since went to a new route using Levimasole. The key IMO is a 1 month QT period. This way you can interrupt the AEFW life cycle.

Check out my Thread on RC. I'm in the process of starting the treatment today.
 

spykes

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arconom said:
Jhale I have been using TMPCC for some time now. I notice the same thing, But most of all I notice a lose of good PE. The one thing that I have noticed is I need 2-2 1/2 the dosage for the AEFW to be effected.

Since I have found out I do have AEFW I can tell you TMPCC major flaw is the fact it gives you a false sense of security. After attending the Manhatten Frag swap I treated all of my corals with TMPCC and interceptor, and did in fact STILL get AEFW's... There must have been some eggs thats all I can think of.

Also the fact that double the dosage is needed since I took a frag I thought was infected (Tri Color Valida) and treated it first with 1 squirt. Some did come off after 15 minutes but for the heck of it I did double the dosage and even more came off a colony I thought had no AEFW.

Knowing this I took a Vermiculta I had and treated it with 1 squirt, nothing came off in 15 minutes. So for the heck of it I did another squirt making it a total of 2 squirts. This is what got them to come off a colony I had no idea had them.

Since this high dosage just about killed the coral I have since went to a new route using Levimasole. The key IMO is a 1 month QT period. This way you can interrupt the AEFW life cycle.

Check out my Thread on RC. I'm in the process of starting the treatment today.

have you experience any deaths upon using levimasole? any color diffrences? How do you use levimasole
 

jhale

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acronom,
I've not had the same experience as you with the TMPCC. In my dips I have found that the worms peel off in less than a minute. I leave the coral in the solution for ten minutes to be sure, if I see no worms then I take it out and check all over for eggs. The solution dyes the eggs so you can see them after they have been dipped. If I do see worms then the coral is left in the solution for 20 minutes to a half hour. by the end of 20 minutes the worms have dissolved and you can barley make out what's left of them.

My solution follows the 1 squirt per 200ml of water.
Perhaps there are more than one kind of worm we are dealing with?
What if one worm is more resilient to the dip than others? I'm not sure this is possible but the difference in our experiences seems pretty large.
 
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jhale said:
Perhaps there are more than one kind of worm we are dealing with?
What if one worm is more resilient to the dip than others? I'm not sure this is possible but the difference in our experiences seems pretty large.

JHale,
I have seen from different tanks that there are more than one type of "believed to be" AEFW. So I guess they react to treament differently.
 

arconom

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Jhale there might be different kinds of AEFW. I'm really not sure.


Spykes, As far as the process, it's not as well defined as the Redbug treatment. My thread on RC is combination of help from Travis who has done the treatment. I expect loses.

I have read alot on RC but the topic always changes to using Flatworm EXIT and it's effects. The only sure fire wins are with this Chemical I have been reading about.


After MACNA Eric Boreman will be studying the AEFW and different products to help rid our tank of them.
 
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arconom

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I'm on Treatment number 2.

So far I lost 6-7 corals total which is great considering I have alot of corals. I believe all the deaths can be blamed on my error. Temps of new SW verse old SW.

On the second treatment today there were no visible AEFW's that fell off the corals. So that means the first Treatment worked great. The Following treatments are for the eggs if any that haven't hatched.

I have 2 more treatments to go.
 

kimoyo

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Are you guys using the squirter with the TMPCC? The one time I used the squirter, I cooked a frag. Not sure how much pro cure I put in but it was a lot more than 1ml. I've been using one of those pipette things from a test kit and haven't had an issue so far.
 

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