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Deanos's Avatar
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02-03-2006, 12:09 PM
  #11  
Quote:
Originally Posted by cali_reef
Deanos, I have not walked into a LFS in NY that uses a refratometer yet. The dudes at FT don't even know what it is.
Grrrr...that's true

Beefbroccoli, I'm sure some member from Queens, local to you, would gladly test your water
 
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02-03-2006, 12:43 PM
  #12  
yea 1.024-1.026 is what u wanna shoot for.. if it really is 1.034 thats really high...

-ph is low at 8.0.or was it 8.4(which one u have both there)..
enough salt water changes can buffer the ph as well..

-dont use tap with that conditioner anymore.it makes ur life harder more work for no reason.lolz. get yourself a rodi unit off of ebay aquasafe is what alot of members here use...
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Last edited by Tonyscoots84; 02-03-2006 at 12:49 PM.
 
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02-03-2006, 12:48 PM
  #13  
I think it is very difficult justifying spending $100+ for a RO\DI on a 20 gallon tank.

This is not a reasonable hobby to get into if you are not prepared to spend thousands on it.
 
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02-03-2006, 01:57 PM
  #14  
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonyscoots84
yea 1.024-1.026 is what u wanna shoot for.. if it really is 1.034 thats really high...

-ph is low at 8.0.or was it 8.4(which one u have both there)..
enough salt water changes can buffer the ph as well..

-dont use tap with that conditioner anymore.it makes ur life harder more work for no reason.lolz. get yourself a rodi unit off of ebay aquasafe is what alot of members here use...
Tony when giving advice to people you have to remember that not all problems can be tackled by water changes. Not all problems are nitrates. And not everyone can get a RODI unit. The things are not cheap to begin with and not everyone can install therese things in their homes.

Important is to find the cause of the underlying problem and not cover it up with waterchanges etc.
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02-03-2006, 02:08 PM
  #15  
don't remember the exact # for salinity, gotta go home and check again, but the fish seems like happy, hope the water is right
 
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02-03-2006, 02:08 PM
  #16  
In response to some of your other concerns, Beefbroccoli, remember that your tank is still maturing. Your sand/rock may not yet have developed enough, to begin reducing the nitrates generated by the tank's cycle. Various forms of algae blooms will be occuring in the early months of the tank's life. While frequent water changes will help combat the high nitrates, it does not solve the problem of an immature tank.
 
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02-03-2006, 02:11 PM
  #17  
Quote:
Originally Posted by hermangareis
And not everyone can get a RODI unit. The things are not cheap to begin with and not everyone can install therese things in their homes.
LOL....Tony's RO/DI unit still has that "new car smell"; it's around a month old.
 
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02-03-2006, 02:39 PM
  #18  
BB your tank would be the perfect candidate for real salt water

check out the catalina company,

http://www.catalinawater.com/

you can buy the water at petco.

I would do a complete water change with the natural sea water.
then for top off water to replace what evaporates, you could use poland spring distilled water, or great bear reverse osmosis bottled water.
this is not the best solution, but it may be eaiser than getting an ro/di unit.
 
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02-03-2006, 03:46 PM
  #19  
BB, Fish Town also sells the bottled salt water in 5 gallon pails if you want to go that route.

What brand\kind of skimmer are you using?

Nitrate at 30 can also mean you are at the end of your "cycle" and you just need to wait a few more days\week for it to drop, if everything else is okay.
 
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02-03-2006, 03:48 PM
  #20  
Quote:
Originally Posted by cali_reef
What brand\kind of skimmer are you using?
Typhoon
 

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