Don’t Be a Penny-Wise, Pound-Foolish Marine Aquarist!

Okay, class, please put away your notes and calculators, take out your number-two pencils (clear-a-vous but for a number-two!), and complete this easy multiple-choice quiz:Which of the following reef-lighting options costs the least? A) Zany Caribbean Chris’s Homemade Reef-Suitable Coral-Blaster® LEDs for $250.00 B) “Gently used,” trusted-name-brand LEDs for $800.00 C) The same reputable LEDs from answer B—only brand-spankin’ new this time—for $1,200. D) A recently discontinued, but once quite popular, LED fixture from now-defunct Company X for $475.00 So what’s the right answer? Which option is cheapest? As anyone with any experience in this hobby will be quick to point out, the only possible correct answer is actually Secret Option E: “Not enough information.” Shopping by price alone in this hobby can lead to madness—or, at the very least, end up costing you a heck of a lot more in the long run if you have to shell out again and again to replace inadequate or downright lousy equipment. Let’s take a closer look at each of the quiz answers and examine why they may or may not represent the best price. And keep in mind that this same thought process can be applied to any type of aquarium gear.

Reef Tank Chillers: Are You Chillin?

There are a lot of variables that can impact the health of a reef tank and temperature is something that should be watched carefully during the warm summer months. A chiller is the best way to keep things cool but they are high ticket items. Budget conscious reef keepers do have options such as using a fan across the top of the tank to promote evaporation, which cools the water. This is exactly what I did when I first entered the hobby fresh out of college with minimal coin. The fans certainly worked but I needed more punch and pondered other cheap alternatives. I came up with what I thought was a bright idea at the time…..find an old water cooler and turn it into a

Featured Tank: the Zeovit Method

Here’s some eye candy for you. Recently, featured as the Featured Tank on the Zeovit Forum Wesley Vrsswijk’s SPS and LPS aquarium is a a setup most any reef aquarist would be proud of. The photos are little oversaturated but you can certainly see that the corals and fish are very healthy. Congratulations to Wesley on his beautiful setup. Wesley shared a list of all the equipment parameters, photo period for his 264 gallon (total water volume) aquarium. For more photos drop over to the Zeovit forum. AQUARIUM DATA Display Tank: (dimensions & size in litres/gallons)215cm x 65cmx 95cm 800L (211 gallons) Sump: (dimensions & size in liters/gallons)145x55x45 200L (53 gallons) Total Volume:1000l (264 gallons) LIGHTING Lighting Setup: ATI hybrid

Salty Q&A: Is a Sump the Same as a Refugium?

QuestionWhat exactly is the difference between a “sump” and a “refugium” (assuming there is a difference)? These are terms I didn’t hear in my 30-plus years as a freshwater aquarist, but I’ve heard them numerous times since starting my first saltwater tank.” – Submitted by Moira B Answer There is a distinction between a sump and refugium in marine aquarium hobby parlance, but sometimes there’s a degree of crossover between these two systems that can make it difficult to tell where one ends and the other begins. Let’s try to define each, and then briefly examine why they sometimes defy easy categorization. Sump defined A sump is a separate (but plumbed into the system) tank or reservoir, situated below the level of the aquarium, that is typically used to hold various life-support equipment—protein skimmer, heater, etc.—so it doesn’t detract from the aesthetics of the display. A sump also provides the added benefit of increasing the water volume of the overall system. Refugium defined A refugium is also a separate tank or reservoir that is plumbed into the aquarium system, but it serves a very different purpose. Essentially, a refugium offers a safe place—a refuge, if you will—in which to sequester organisms for one reason or another. For example, hobbyists might want to create such an environment in order to culture microfauna (such as amphipods and copepods), bolster the system’s biofiltration capacity with additional live rock/sand, grow macroalgae for the purpose of nitrate reduction or feeding herbivorous fish, isolate injured or bullied specimens, or house interesting hitchhikers that may not be welcome in the display tank.

5 Marine Aquarium Setup Missteps

Don’t forget the leak test – it’s an important part of setting up your new aquarium.Marine aquarium hobbyists can make any number of mistakes when setting up a new system, but some of these errors aren’t as easy as others to rectify after the fact. What follows is a list of five setup errors that are difficult or complicated to correct by the time their consequences become evident: 1. Situating the tank too far from utilitiesIt should come as no surprise that efficient long-term operation of any aquarium system depends on convenient access to water and electricity. Try to choose a location for your tank that is in reasonable proximity to a water tap, waste drain, and GFCI-protected electrical outlets. Otherwise you’ll end up lugging heavy buckets of water over considerable distances and/or up and down flights of stairs as well as running unsightly extension cords all over the place. 2. Failing to level Yes, I know that every book or article ever written about setting up an aquarium states that the tank should be leveled before it’s filled with water