Browning out in corals

[bethzb]

So there is all sorts of discussion on the assorted causes for losing coloration in corals. Most of these point to a larger population of zooxanthellae inside the tissues of the coral due to high nutrients or to a lack of UV light.

In my case, there is definitely a larger percentage of nutrients however, certain of my corals prefer those conditions, specifically my Elegance Coral which is thriving. I recently introduced Acans and favia as a possibility for corals who would maintain their colors in my conditions but alas, they too have become more tan (for the orange) or grey (for the blue).

Since I have no intention of disrupting the tank nutrient balance just to increase color, I begin to wonder what I can do with my existing lights instead. I have been running power compacts (2 96w 10,000 K and 2 96w blue actinics along with blue LED's) for the history of the tank. I change out the bulbs every 6 to 8 months though they are rated for 1 year. These lights have a plastic barrier to protect the unit from moisture. I also have a glass canopy to reduce splash and evaporation on the tank. These two barriers are probably blocking whatever UV spectrum the lower lighting puts out.

Would it make sense to remove one or both of these barriers to improve coloration?

 

[THEDLO]

no pain in trying. i ran VHOs at first with no splash gars etc.

 

[Turbovr3six]

What is your "larger percentage of nutrients"? If there too high, it can brown anything out IMO.

 

[bethzb]

What is your "larger percentage of nutrients"? If there too high, it can brown anything out IMO.

Nitrates average between 10 and 20 ppm. The only real filtration is the live rock and a 4" deep sand bed. I have two Eheim wet dry filters below but they are primarily for alternate water flow. Very little media inside. There is a fair amount of algae growth that keeps the starfish and snails fed (along with utilizing available nitrates) and a ton of spaghetti worms, copepods, and the like that live in the sand bed.

 

[Turbovr3six]

NO3 isn't that bad.
Have you tested PO4? That could be a cause of browning. Also CAL, ALK, MAG of course

 

[fishman1069]

I would try different lighting. I had pcs for a whilee and didnt get the colors that I wanted till I switched to T5s. You will definatly save a ton of money on bulbs if you go T5. Plus they give off more lumens per watt so you would save on electric too. If you do switch, make sure you acclimate the coral to the light by either hanging the lite high up and dropping a couple of inches a week or using screens over the DT and removing one evry couple of days. I would also ditch the glass tops and try making your own screen tops. The glass dosent allow for the proper gas exchange or evap. You can buy everything you need from HD or Lowes. Get the black aluminum screen frame and some plastic netting and the little plastic 45's for the frame. It all cost about 10 bucks depending on the size. HTH

 

[bethzb]

NO3 isn't that bad.
Have you tested PO4? That could be a cause of browning. Also CAL, ALK, MAG of course

PO4 never shows a reading. Calcium averages around 400, Alkalinity is an average of 9 or 10 though I do have to buffer it sometimes. I do not have the capacity for testing magnesium or any of the other more obscure elements but this is also why I do not dose much. 30 gallon water changes every 3 to 4 weeks should maintain most trace elements and I add either Kent Trace Elements or Sea Chem Reef Complete every other week. I alternate to ensure the best likelihood of getting a little bit of everything.

 

[Turbovr3six]

PO4 never shows a reading. Calcium averages around 400, Alkalinity is an average of 9 or 10 though I do have to buffer it sometimes. I do not have the capacity for testing magnesium or any of the other more obscure elements but this is also why I do not dose much. 30 gallon water changes every 3 to 4 weeks should maintain most trace elements and I add either Kent Trace Elements or Sea Chem Reef Complete every other week. I alternate to ensure the best likelihood of getting a little bit of everything.

I would guess lighting then.. JMO

 

[bethzb]

I would try different lighting. I had pcs for a whilee and didnt get the colors that I wanted till I switched to T5s. You will definatly save a ton of money on bulbs if you go T5. Plus they give off more lumens per watt so you would save on electric too. If you do switch, make sure you acclimate the coral to the light by either hanging the lite high up and dropping a couple of inches a week or using screens over the DT and removing one evry couple of days. I would also ditch the glass tops and try making your own screen tops. The glass dosent allow for the proper gas exchange or evap. You can buy everything you need from HD or Lowes. Get the black aluminum screen frame and some plastic netting and the little plastic 45's for the frame. It all cost about 10 bucks depending on the size. HTH

Was hoping to avoid that. Hubby doesn't want me to spend much more money on the system though I have him almost convinced to build LED lights for me. This is mostly based upon the electric bill though my belief is that the large, flat screen tv that he falls asleep watching contributes just as much LOL.

 

[prattreef]

I agree that NO3 is not an issue. How are you measuring PO4? This really is your most likely culprit.

 

[bethzb]

I agree that NO3 is not an issue. How are you measuring PO4? This really is your most likely culprit.

The dreaded API test kits. I realize they are not all that accurate however, it is what I have at hand. I keep toying with the idea of borrowing a kit from work (I work for a school and the Environmental Science class has all sorts of goodies

 

[prattreef]

See if someone near you has a Hanna meter or a Deltec or Elos kit.

 

[Turbovr3six]

Hanna checker was one of my best investments as far as testing goes. Cheap and easy!

In the meantime maybe take a water sample to a LFS around you to have them test all parameters for you.

 

[batt600]

One is your lighting and you need to test P04 with a hanna checker . Do you use RODI water for water changes?

 

[pauliwalnuts]

Hanna checker was one of my best investments as far as testing goes. Cheap and easy!

In the meantime maybe take a water sample to a LFS around you to have them test all parameters for you.

+1
I need to know exactly where my phosphate levels are.

 

[bethzb]

One is your lighting and you need to test P04 with a hanna checker . Do you use RODI water for water changes?

No. I just run it through a standard water softening system. I believe it works a carbon infused 5 micron filter.

 

[batt600]

No. I just run it through a standard water softening system. I believe it works a carbon infused 5 micron filter.

Ok if its not a Ro unit then u are just adding P04 to your tank

 

[basiab]

It may help to replace actinics with daylights and let the LED give you the blue color.

 

[flipit13]

Ok if its not a Ro unit then u are just adding P04 to your tank

i'm sure this is the culprit. rodi is the only way to go in a reef tank. plus i would do more frequent water changes with rodi jmo

 

[bethzb]

i'm sure this is the culprit. rodi is the only way to go in a reef tank. plus i would do more frequent water changes with rodi jmo

Keep in mind that this is a nutrient rich tank for a reason. I may, if I find them, try to decrease the PO4 but I am not going to try for a totally "clean" tank since the corals I have thrive in these conditions. The key to a lagoon set up is a more moderate flow, moderate lighting, and of course, a fair amount of nutrients in the water. All my corals thrive and grow (and eat well might I add), they just don't have the brilliant colors (except for green which is confusing since most of the greens are supposedly shallower waters and therefor, more light).

I will however remove one of the barriers between the light and the water in an attempt to increase the UV penetration since those bright colors we all love are the equivelant of coral sunscreen. I also found a UV spectrum specific bulb that I may try out.