Plumbing help!

[MACH5]

Hey guys. I just plumbed a new frag tank to my existing system. I have a very small leak from a glued joint (see pic below). I want to ask what's a good way to fix this without having to replace the entire section of pvc??

Thanks in advance guys!




http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=136568&stc=1&d=1368322151

 

[duke62]

You can try adding more glue around the joint but i would personally redo it

 

[thirty6]

I agree with duke, sucks because no space to work with you will have to re plumb the entire run

 

[thirty6]

I forget what they are called. Black rubber gasket looking thing with tension screws on ends, maybe reglue and slip one of them over if you can and see how it holds. I'm sorry i cant think of the name as soon as someone reads this they will know what im referring to

 

[MACH5]

Ok thanks guys. Duke I was thinking the same. I will try and put more glue over the joint and see what happens.

I also got this thing at HD called water weld. Is an epoxy designed to plug leaks and cures even under water. I guess I will try this second before I spend more cash on the expensive sch 80 pvc and redo the whole run

Please anybody else chime in. Thanks!!

 

[lfsmarineguy]

Usually called a flexible coupler but there's a technical name I'm blocking on right now. I'd remove the plumbing and try to get the glue in from the inside and then get the gap on the outside but the best way would be to just redo it. Whenever you're gluing PVC you always want to twist the two parts you're joining about a 1/4 turn to make sure the cement has full contact. It's more important to twist on the larger diameter pipes like 2"+ but it's always a good idea to get in the habit with the smaller pipes.

 

[lfsmarineguy]

Why are you using sch 80 anyway?

 

[Tonyscoots84]

Usually called a flexible coupler but there's a technical name I'm blocking on right now. I'd remove the plumbing and try to get the glue in from the inside and then get the gap on the outside but the best way would be to just redo it. Whenever you're gluing PVC you always want to twist the two parts you're joining about a 1/4 turn to make sure the cement has full contact. It's more important to twist on the larger diameter pipes like 2"+ but it's always a good idea to get in the habit with the smaller pipes.

its called a furnco.

 

[MACH5]

Why are you using sch 80 anyway?

Thanks lfsmarineguy! Yes I turned all pieces as I glue them together. That's why I was surprised it did this to me. Oh well. Call me crazy, but I just like the look of schedule 80. I like my plumbing to look as nice as my corals! :smash:

 

[MACH5]

its called a furnco.

Thanks!

 

[lfsmarineguy]

Tony got it.

What cement did you use and how long after plumbing it did you run it?

 

[MACH5]

24 hrs. I used the standard purple primer and cement.

 

[JimmyR1rider]

I would also use more cement when you do your plumbing from now on. I use enough to where a good amount squishes out of the joint and catch it in a small towel and then wipe the joint to where the excess is wiped away and the gap is filled with the cement.


Good luck.

 

[Greagzter]

Definitely no need to spend all that money on schedule 80 PVC. Nevertheless, had the same problem on one of my joints of my return pump, I kept applying layers glue while giving few minutes to dry. Worked out well for me, and I am running a mag 18.

 

[MACH5]

I would also use more cement when you do your plumbing from now on. I use enough to where a good amount squishes out of the joint and catch it in a small towel and then wipe the joint to where the excess is wiped away and the gap is filled with the cement.


Good luck.

Thanks! Yes I did try this time to use enough of it but I guess this joint did not. I guess part of my problem is that I try to be neat with it and not have the stuff show too much on the outside.

 

[MACH5]

Definitely no need to spend all that money on schedule 80 PVC. Nevertheless, had the same problem on one of my joints of my return pump, I kept applying layers glue while giving few minutes to dry. Worked out well for me, and I am running a mag 18.

Thanks I will try to apply primer and glue on the outside and see. In my case it might work since the leak is quite small but I do have a pan world 200 with quite a bit of head pressure. We'll see.

 

[edd]

remove the cement from the outside of joint, then fill it with JB weld or marine tex.

 

[jhart]

If all fails , Buy 5 or 20 min 2 part epoxy from a hobby store ...turn off the water fill in the joint with epoxy , its clear so it wont dirty up your nice looking work. wait till its cured ..turn on the water.

 

[MACH5]

remove the cement from the outside of joint, then fill it with JB weld or marine tex.

That's exactly what I got at HD. I'm a bit hesitant since it will dry off white and probably will not look that great. But I am considering it.

 

[MACH5]

If all fails , Buy 5 or 20 min 2 part epoxy from a hobby store ...turn off the water fill in the joint with epoxy , its clear so it wont dirty up your nice looking work. wait till its cured ..turn on the water.

Do know if they have this at Lowes or HD?