Need router bit info for acrylic

[Pedro]

Just got a sump from INK, but the top is pretty closed. I want to open it up more. Can anybody point me to the router bit i need to trim acrylic and open it up more. I saw the attachment so that i can set the depth in order to keep the eurobracing look.

Thanks. I am going to the HD for this.

 

[cali_reef]

Pedro, you need a spiral cut trimming bit, this will keep the shavings down a little but I am not sure if HD carry them. You can find them online.

Not sure how you control the size of the piece you wish to cut with the depth control, that is usually used to control how deep of a channel you want to cut but not actually separating the piece.

Do you have a router table?

 

[Pedro]

No i don't cali. This has to be done on the spot. The guide is just to keep the router from going to the edge. I want to leave like 2-3 inches all around.

 

[cali_reef]

Which router do you have?

Without a router table freehand cut will not be very straight.. You can try this, clamp a straight edge on the top and use it as a guide to trim out the section you don't want.

 

[Pedro]

I just found all the info i need. This is also good for others that are thinking about even building their own sump. Thanks to this it should be a piece of cake. The only difference here is that i only need a Straight cut carbide bit since the collar will be useless.

http://www.melevsreef.com/tools.html

 

[spykes]

pedro what i would do is use a trim bit and clamp wood underneath the acrylic then trim those lines. The fence for the router is not good bro.

 

[Pedro]

Spykes,

Are you referring to this guide? What's really the problem in using it?

 

[cali_reef]

Pedro, that is a edge guide, you can use it but go slow and becareful when you get close to the corners.

 

[Pedro]

Cali,

I plan on doing the same thing he's doing, see how he leaves the eurobracing in place. I just don't know what spykes means by the fence, if he was referring to this edge guide. This this is already cutout, i can just put the router in, set the guide to match the existing lip, and route away, or so i think. Gonna go get me a 2 flute straight cut carbide bit at the depot. Maybe i'll also pick up a laminating bit.

Thanks.

 

[Pedro]

Well i finished the job. Turned out to be a piece of cake. You can literally do it in like less than 5 minutes. I ended up doing what Spykes suggested. I clamped a guide piece of wood underneath and ran my finishing bit through. It cut it nice and smooth. It would have been even easier if i would have found a bearing big enough to replace the one that comes with the bit, then i wouldn't have had to use the guide and would have been done it in 1-2 minutes. Here's the before and after pics. I show the guide but i didn't use it. Just wasn't practical for this particular operation.

 

[cali_reef]

Nice job!!

Is that a real dog in the last picture?

 

[nanoreefer22]

Nice job!!

Is that a real dog in the last picture?

Same thing I was wondering...Nice work Pedro!

 

[Pedro]

LOL, nah that's not a real dog Ya'll! He was paying attention though, best part about it is i don't have to walk him.

 

[loismustdie]

Pedro, I had the same problem with the same type of tank. I used the tracer bit dave talked about with some 2X4's and wood clamps. I left the center brace in. Here's the before and after.

 

[Pedro]

Chris, Nice job. Are you using it as a tank? I originally was planning on leaving the center brace in, but since it's for a sump, i figured it's not necessary. The sump will be 1/2 full at most. I do plan on drilling two small holes for future so that i can screw a brace in if necessary. I noticed you notched out the overflow too. I was thinking the same to use it as a bubble trap for the drain side. But it was more work, and i will just use that space to hold my phosban reactor.

Anybody else that's doing this, if you plan on using it as a Tank, leave the center brace in!

 

[loismustdie]

Yes, I notched out the overflow. From what Dave tells me, I will only get 300 GPH through those little holes. Not nearly enough. I've got it up to about 1000 gph now.
My plan was to use it as a frag tank, that's why I left the center brace. There was going to be a 175-250 watt MH over each opening. I'm not sure if I want to do that anymore. The tank is currently being used to mix salt water for water changes.