Questions about my Sump Construction??
- Thread starter faztaz
- Start date
I just finished constructing the main frame for my sump. Its 36X20X20 made of 3/8” acrylic. Before I install the baffles I have a couple of questions.
1) Can I submerge the pipes coming from the overflows and skimmers in the water about 1.5”. I was hoping that would help to quiet the noise down.
Submersion of the overflow piping is not a problem. My LiferReef has a bulkhead well below the waterlevel. I built a sump that had the piping plumbed in the top w/ extentions that went below the waterline and had no problem.. Now for the skimmer. It is best to have the plumbing at or above the waterline to allow for micro bubbles to escape and no get sucked into the return pump and returned to the tank.
2) Also should I use 90° elbows as shown in the diagram for both the pump intake and pipes from the overflows/skimmer. Other than directing the flow of the water and allowing the pump to take water from the bottom of the sump, what are the added benefits?
B]The 90's will cut down on the amount of microbubbles returned to the tank. Remember that the more 90's that you use the less flow you will get from that pipe.[/B]
3) I expect the sump to have around 15”of water height. Occasionally when the power goes off the skimmers and overflows should Increase this height to 18”. Should I use perimeter bracing or a center brace or is the 3/8” thick enough to prevent bowing. I was hoping the baffles would also increase the structural integrity of the design.
[The baffles will help with the bowing but I would but in a center brace if it would nort dramatically interfear with your sump set-up
4) I used an acrylic glue which chemically bonds the two ends (at the joints) into one. I used capillary action to push the glue into the joints and for the most part there are no bubbles in the joints but there are patches of bubbles here or there either because I didn’t put enough glue or the space was too big or too small for capillary action to occur. Having said this should I put a silicone bead around the edges or a Weldon bead or do you think the acrylic cement will be enough.
I would use WeldOn, not sure if it is 16 or 40. Of you could take some of the shavings from when you sanded the rough cuts, add some solvent and use that to weld/fill in the gaps. I would silacone after that for insurance.
5) Are the design of my baffles ok. I was planning on having baffle #1 17” in length, baffle #2 17” as well, baffle #3 15” and finally baffle #4 10”. The water will enter
she sump flow over baffle #1 under #2 over #3 and over #4. There will be a 4'countercurrent skimmer with lots of tiny bubbles entering the sump so I need to make sure none of them enter the AMPmaster.
Check out web pagefor the CAD drawings of how Jeff sets up his baffles. With the 90's and a foam block you should eliminate the microbubbles. Plus a countercurrent does not put a great deal of bubbles back into the sump.[The baffles will help with the bowing but I would but in a center brace if it would nort dramatically interfear with your sump set-up
These are my oppinions and experiences. Good Luck.
Walter
1) Can I submerge the pipes coming from the overflows and skimmers in the water about 1.5”. I was hoping that would help to quiet the noise down.
Submersion of the overflow piping is not a problem. My LiferReef has a bulkhead well below the waterlevel. I built a sump that had the piping plumbed in the top w/ extentions that went below the waterline and had no problem.. Now for the skimmer. It is best to have the plumbing at or above the waterline to allow for micro bubbles to escape and no get sucked into the return pump and returned to the tank.
2) Also should I use 90° elbows as shown in the diagram for both the pump intake and pipes from the overflows/skimmer. Other than directing the flow of the water and allowing the pump to take water from the bottom of the sump, what are the added benefits?
B]The 90's will cut down on the amount of microbubbles returned to the tank. Remember that the more 90's that you use the less flow you will get from that pipe.[/B]
3) I expect the sump to have around 15”of water height. Occasionally when the power goes off the skimmers and overflows should Increase this height to 18”. Should I use perimeter bracing or a center brace or is the 3/8” thick enough to prevent bowing. I was hoping the baffles would also increase the structural integrity of the design.
[The baffles will help with the bowing but I would but in a center brace if it would nort dramatically interfear with your sump set-up
4) I used an acrylic glue which chemically bonds the two ends (at the joints) into one. I used capillary action to push the glue into the joints and for the most part there are no bubbles in the joints but there are patches of bubbles here or there either because I didn’t put enough glue or the space was too big or too small for capillary action to occur. Having said this should I put a silicone bead around the edges or a Weldon bead or do you think the acrylic cement will be enough.
I would use WeldOn, not sure if it is 16 or 40. Of you could take some of the shavings from when you sanded the rough cuts, add some solvent and use that to weld/fill in the gaps. I would silacone after that for insurance.
5) Are the design of my baffles ok. I was planning on having baffle #1 17” in length, baffle #2 17” as well, baffle #3 15” and finally baffle #4 10”. The water will enter
she sump flow over baffle #1 under #2 over #3 and over #4. There will be a 4'countercurrent skimmer with lots of tiny bubbles entering the sump so I need to make sure none of them enter the AMPmaster.
Check out web pagefor the CAD drawings of how Jeff sets up his baffles. With the 90's and a foam block you should eliminate the microbubbles. Plus a countercurrent does not put a great deal of bubbles back into the sump.[The baffles will help with the bowing but I would but in a center brace if it would nort dramatically interfear with your sump set-up
These are my oppinions and experiences. Good Luck.
Walter
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