You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Reliable float switch?
- Thread starter Hammer
- Start date
Aghhh.
I know where your coming from. Sorry this really isn't an answer but I'm trying to run a 2000gph through a 55g tank with a 40g sump, so timing the float switch is very tricky. It actually ends up to around 1000gph once it travels through the filters, skimmer, etc, but still a pain in the butt. I have place the switch in the sump. Can you change the polarity of the switch? Actually, hmmm...AC current, i don't know. I'm interested in a more reliable system as well so if anyone has suggestions please do tell.
Ryan
I know where your coming from. Sorry this really isn't an answer but I'm trying to run a 2000gph through a 55g tank with a 40g sump, so timing the float switch is very tricky. It actually ends up to around 1000gph once it travels through the filters, skimmer, etc, but still a pain in the butt. I have place the switch in the sump. Can you change the polarity of the switch? Actually, hmmm...AC current, i don't know. I'm interested in a more reliable system as well so if anyone has suggestions please do tell.
Ryan
For my top-off system, I used a couple of float switches from mcmaster.com running to a relay (to keep the high voltage away from the water). I used 2 float switches just for redundency. I found that the switches fit and operate perfectly inside of 35mm film canisters.
What I did was cut a hole through the lid of the canister and mounted the thread portion of the switch through the lid before screwing it into the bracket. I then cut some holes through the bottom and sides of the canister so the water can get in.
It makes a pretty good slosh guard and critter keeper outer. I can just pop the 35mm film cans off to clean the switches. So far it works pretty good with the float range being about 3/16". As far as long-term use, it's only been running for about 1 month.
What I did was cut a hole through the lid of the canister and mounted the thread portion of the switch through the lid before screwing it into the bracket. I then cut some holes through the bottom and sides of the canister so the water can get in.
It makes a pretty good slosh guard and critter keeper outer. I can just pop the 35mm film cans off to clean the switches. So far it works pretty good with the float range being about 3/16". As far as long-term use, it's only been running for about 1 month.
clutchcargo: I like the 35mm canister and the low voltage relay idea... My current float switch operates at a full 120v and puts enough current into the water that if I have my hands in the tank when it kicks in I can feel it using me as a ground... It's definitely on the way out. I've already ordered a low voltage relay, but am curious how you'd use two for redundancy?
but am curious how you'd use two for redundancy?
You wire them in a series. That way the both have to activate for your pump to be turned on. Basically its for peace of mind.
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
