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First Post!
- Thread starter Kabob
- Start date
I'm excited about this course. Can't wait for the parts list.Parts list will be soon, I promise. Just trying to find parts numbers for everything.
I will be asking everyone the height of the reactor they want to make. I will cut and provide the cast acrylic tube, at cost. However, everyone will need to prep the ends themselves. So, in the mean time, think about the height you've got to work with.
As for router bits, for what we'll be doing, the following link will set you up with a good router bit which will be able to cut everything for this project. If you've got a larger router that can take 1/2" bits, you might want to also have a 1/2" flush trim bit.
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/pro ... ABB2D7B4E7
This is a 1/4" upcut spriral flush trim bit. When used in a router table, it will pull the material down to the table. The 1/4" will allow you to cut keyholes.
If you want to finish the edges of your project even more nicely, I would suggest a 1/16" roundover bit:
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/pro ... ABB2D7B4E7
Neither of those bits are inexpensive, especially from that source. Feel free to use the pics on those sites as an example, and track these bits down elsewhere.
Another source of bits is Hartlauer Bits: http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/
Spiral Flush Trim: part number 28-25
I'll post information about a sawblade for a table saw later today. Check your local phone book for saw blade manufacturers or suppliers in your area, and you should be able to order a blade which works fine for acrylic from them.
BRIAN
I will be asking everyone the height of the reactor they want to make. I will cut and provide the cast acrylic tube, at cost. However, everyone will need to prep the ends themselves. So, in the mean time, think about the height you've got to work with.
As for router bits, for what we'll be doing, the following link will set you up with a good router bit which will be able to cut everything for this project. If you've got a larger router that can take 1/2" bits, you might want to also have a 1/2" flush trim bit.
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/pro ... ABB2D7B4E7
This is a 1/4" upcut spriral flush trim bit. When used in a router table, it will pull the material down to the table. The 1/4" will allow you to cut keyholes.
If you want to finish the edges of your project even more nicely, I would suggest a 1/16" roundover bit:
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/pro ... ABB2D7B4E7
Neither of those bits are inexpensive, especially from that source. Feel free to use the pics on those sites as an example, and track these bits down elsewhere.
Another source of bits is Hartlauer Bits: http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/
Spiral Flush Trim: part number 28-25
I'll post information about a sawblade for a table saw later today. Check your local phone book for saw blade manufacturers or suppliers in your area, and you should be able to order a blade which works fine for acrylic from them.
BRIAN
Your stand may be 32", but you probably want to measure the inside, to see what you've actually got to work with. Then, I'd subtract a couple of inches for the plumbing, etc. Just let me know later what you've got to work with, and I'll try to let you know what length of tube you'll need.
B
B
Hi Brian,
Trying to evaluate whether I should buy one. Is this 1/2" shank or 1/2" cut? or both? What will we do with it? Do I get that instead of the 1/4" bit? I believe I've got a 1/4" flush trim bit with bearing but it isn't the "upcut spiral" version.
BTW, I'm taking this course to learn to work with acrylic. I don't really want a calcium reactor but feel the lessons will be invaluable in other acrylic ventures. And hopefully I can sell the cacl reactor on ebay or someplace.
Looking forward to it.
Hal
If you've got a larger router that can take 1/2" bits, you might want to also have a 1/2" flush trim bit.
Trying to evaluate whether I should buy one. Is this 1/2" shank or 1/2" cut? or both? What will we do with it? Do I get that instead of the 1/4" bit? I believe I've got a 1/4" flush trim bit with bearing but it isn't the "upcut spiral" version.
BTW, I'm taking this course to learn to work with acrylic. I don't really want a calcium reactor but feel the lessons will be invaluable in other acrylic ventures. And hopefully I can sell the cacl reactor on ebay or someplace.
Looking forward to it.
Hal
I was referring to a 1/2" shank on the bit itself. Normal bits come in 1/4" and 1/2" shank, though you can also get 3/8", and bits smaller than 1/4". This doesn't refer to the cutter diameter. There are bits with 1/2" shanks that can be 3" in diameter, though these are pretty scary to use. When using larger bits, you need to use a router with higher HP.
You may have a flush trim bit with a 1/4" shank, but it's pretty uncommon to have a bit with a 1/4" cutter diameter, except in the spiral. Make sure that's the case, because that bit and bearing will need to fit into a slot that is just over 1/4" across. Does this make sense?
You may have a flush trim bit with a 1/4" shank, but it's pretty uncommon to have a bit with a 1/4" cutter diameter, except in the spiral. Make sure that's the case, because that bit and bearing will need to fit into a slot that is just over 1/4" across. Does this make sense?
I'm in Montana and I'll have to order everything from out of state so it would be great if the list is posted with plenty of time to order and receive the parts before the course starts.
Ken
If you can't find the stuff via mail order, Ken, I'll be able to send the plastic pieces to you, as well as several of the other supplies.
The delay at this time is just putting some prices against the parts I'm able to supply...I need to go through some old paperwork and see what it costs me.
BRIAN
If you can't find the stuff via mail order, Ken, I'll be able to send the plastic pieces to you, as well as several of the other supplies.
Thanks Brian.
I'll let you know although it just might be easier to get them from you. Hope you are making a little on these parts. It's one thing to give this course but when you supply parts you should make something for your efforts.
Ken
It's one thing to give this course but when you supply parts you should make something for your efforts.
Ken
Thanks for being understanding ;-) I won't make alot on that. I just need to cover materials and shop time, which I pay the owner for.
BRIAN
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