I'm getting ready to set up a DIY CA reactor. I would like some recomendations on the regulator for the C02 tank. I've come across ones for $150 and just came across one at harborfreight.com for 29.99 ITEM 47259-0VGA. What's the diffefence? quality, type or what? I'm a touch confused. Is a regulator that complicated? are there special ones used for CA reactors? Thanks for your help!
C02 regulator recomendations
- Thread starter szwab
- Start date
$30 is a great price for a dual gauge regulator, however, it's not hard to find good quality dual guage regulators at beverage supply places for $50. That's not all you will need for your CO2 system though...
You'll need a bubble counter, a needle valve, a check valve, and a solenoid (in the event of a power failure the solenoid will cut-off the flow of CO2 to your reactor/tank). You're probably looking at $100 minimum to buy all that stuff seperately, so if the $150 regulator you looked at has all that stuff with it, it's not a bad deal.
The cheapest I have found all of that stuff in one package is here:
http://www.ereeftank.com/mkregulator.html
This looks very similar to the Blueline unit (another all-one-type regulator), so it MAY have a check valve built-in, but I don't know - you'd have to find out. Even if it didn't you can get one for about $15. Also, I have no idea what the quality of this product is.
I've heard that you can use a metered flow valve instead of the bubble counter and needle valve combo, but I have no experience with this.
FWIW I went with a Blueline regulator package for my DIY reactor.
HTH
You'll need a bubble counter, a needle valve, a check valve, and a solenoid (in the event of a power failure the solenoid will cut-off the flow of CO2 to your reactor/tank). You're probably looking at $100 minimum to buy all that stuff seperately, so if the $150 regulator you looked at has all that stuff with it, it's not a bad deal.
The cheapest I have found all of that stuff in one package is here:
http://www.ereeftank.com/mkregulator.html
This looks very similar to the Blueline unit (another all-one-type regulator), so it MAY have a check valve built-in, but I don't know - you'd have to find out. Even if it didn't you can get one for about $15. Also, I have no idea what the quality of this product is.
I've heard that you can use a metered flow valve instead of the bubble counter and needle valve combo, but I have no experience with this.
FWIW I went with a Blueline regulator package for my DIY reactor.
HTH
hi.
The HF regulator is fine if you only need the regulator function. The low pressure gauage is too high for calcium usage (they are intended for welding, but ca rxtor is usually set at 10PSI only), so it is useless. The regulator is not heavy duty in both welding and reef standard (get a real regulator made by Victor and other name brand... even those that they sell in hydroponics/homebrew/reef place is a junk if you show it to a real welder <but we are not doing welding here, so don't be too concern...), and one time when I tried to changed the low pressure guage, the thread got striped, and it leaks badly afterward (I know how to remove the gauage, but the metal is so soft that it striped). So if you get one, be forewarn about change that little low pressure gauage. Furthermore, the thread is not standard thread, so you will have a hard time to find a correct gauage.
In addition, the barbed output is kind of difficult to put a needle valve/solenoid on...
The HF regulator is fine if you only need the regulator function. The low pressure gauage is too high for calcium usage (they are intended for welding, but ca rxtor is usually set at 10PSI only), so it is useless. The regulator is not heavy duty in both welding and reef standard (get a real regulator made by Victor and other name brand... even those that they sell in hydroponics/homebrew/reef place is a junk if you show it to a real welder <but we are not doing welding here, so don't be too concern...), and one time when I tried to changed the low pressure guage, the thread got striped, and it leaks badly afterward (I know how to remove the gauage, but the metal is so soft that it striped). So if you get one, be forewarn about change that little low pressure gauage. Furthermore, the thread is not standard thread, so you will have a hard time to find a correct gauage.
In addition, the barbed output is kind of difficult to put a needle valve/solenoid on...
howdy,Hi;
I just finished the DIY MACO course. Alot of us in the class used the aquamedic regulator; we got it for I think around 75$ at inlandreef.com
It works well; has a needle valve which so far is keeping a steady 12BPM rate on my reactor. From what I understand, the tough thing is to find a regulator which will hold a steady slow bubble count; 12BPM is really slow. This is why you need a low output pressure; I've heard 20PSI is sufficient. Also, the Dwyer flow meter is supposed to be a more reliable alternative to a needle valve in keeping a good slow rate. It's about 40$, replaces the needle valve. So you could look for a cheaper regulator, use the flowmeter, and you'd be fine, but you have to add that $40 to the cost.
Matt
I just finished the DIY MACO course. Alot of us in the class used the aquamedic regulator; we got it for I think around 75$ at inlandreef.com
It works well; has a needle valve which so far is keeping a steady 12BPM rate on my reactor. From what I understand, the tough thing is to find a regulator which will hold a steady slow bubble count; 12BPM is really slow. This is why you need a low output pressure; I've heard 20PSI is sufficient. Also, the Dwyer flow meter is supposed to be a more reliable alternative to a needle valve in keeping a good slow rate. It's about 40$, replaces the needle valve. So you could look for a cheaper regulator, use the flowmeter, and you'd be fine, but you have to add that $40 to the cost.
Matt
hi.
There is no harm other than you may have to reprime the reactor once power is on again.
A NC solenoid will shut off automatically when the power is removed. (NC = normal closed, NO = normal open. Being an electrician, you should be familiar with the terminology.)
There is no harm other than you may have to reprime the reactor once power is on again.
A NC solenoid will shut off automatically when the power is removed. (NC = normal closed, NO = normal open. Being an electrician, you should be familiar with the terminology.)
I understand the NO and NC terminology.
So is this selonoid one that the co2 line goes thru? The when power fails is shuts off the co2 line. What would be a good one to buy? Are there any made that plug into an outlet and have outlets for items to be plug into that you want controlled by them?
Louey
So is this selonoid one that the co2 line goes thru? The when power fails is shuts off the co2 line. What would be a good one to buy? Are there any made that plug into an outlet and have outlets for items to be plug into that you want controlled by them?
Louey
Heh.
I was just pointing out that you asked if there was something that plugged into the outlet, that was controlled by the electricity going out....
Also, FWIW, I don't think you really need a solenoid, unless you decide to use a controller.
B
_________________
Honda CR-X del Sol
I was just pointing out that you asked if there was something that plugged into the outlet, that was controlled by the electricity going out....
Also, FWIW, I don't think you really need a solenoid, unless you decide to use a controller.
B
_________________
Honda CR-X del Sol
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