Having made stainglass, the idea of drilling my own tank did not seem very hard. After all, glass grinding is glass grinding.
EDKHosting's posting made is sound easy. (check here for the details). But, he was drilling a 20 gal not a 120 gal and the glass thickness is quite different.
While I don't doubt someone could drill 3/8" glass with a #7134 dremmel bit, I doubted that I could in less than 3 hours. My dremmel can't run for more than 10 minutes with out getting too hot to hold.
Here are the bits that I used instead of dremmel bits.
Two possible bit types.
The left one shows the diamond part has failed and come off the bit. It is designed to drill glass. It is a 1/4" bit designed to screw into an adapter which then slips onto the 1/4" shaft of the glass grinder. Using a 1/4" hex to 1/4" socket adapter, I was able to use the grinder bit in my electric drill. Since drills are not made to run continuously, the drill heating up will be the limiting factor in completing this task. I found I could not run the drill longer than 15 mins without stopping and letting it cool. But, i have two drills .
The right bit is designed to screw into the top of the grinder post. To use it in a drill it has to be screwed into a standoff with 8-32 threads.
The biggest advantage to both of these bits is that you are not going to bend them. Thus you can apply the force necessary to work your way through 3/8" glass.
I used EDKHost'ing method and it is still valid. The bigger bits just let you apply more force.
Here is one end showing the different bulkeheads and the finished holes.
Here is the other end showing how far I got before my bit failed. The bit shown on the tank is a 7/8" bit I use to clean up the holes (and enlarge them to fit the bulkhead ).
EDKHosting's posting made is sound easy. (check here for the details). But, he was drilling a 20 gal not a 120 gal and the glass thickness is quite different.
While I don't doubt someone could drill 3/8" glass with a #7134 dremmel bit, I doubted that I could in less than 3 hours. My dremmel can't run for more than 10 minutes with out getting too hot to hold.
Here are the bits that I used instead of dremmel bits.
Two possible bit types.
The left one shows the diamond part has failed and come off the bit. It is designed to drill glass. It is a 1/4" bit designed to screw into an adapter which then slips onto the 1/4" shaft of the glass grinder. Using a 1/4" hex to 1/4" socket adapter, I was able to use the grinder bit in my electric drill. Since drills are not made to run continuously, the drill heating up will be the limiting factor in completing this task. I found I could not run the drill longer than 15 mins without stopping and letting it cool. But, i have two drills .
The right bit is designed to screw into the top of the grinder post. To use it in a drill it has to be screwed into a standoff with 8-32 threads.
The biggest advantage to both of these bits is that you are not going to bend them. Thus you can apply the force necessary to work your way through 3/8" glass.
I used EDKHost'ing method and it is still valid. The bigger bits just let you apply more force.
Here is one end showing the different bulkeheads and the finished holes.
Here is the other end showing how far I got before my bit failed. The bit shown on the tank is a 7/8" bit I use to clean up the holes (and enlarge them to fit the bulkhead ).