check this out DIY chiller

[grisha]

IM OVER THIS IDEA
let me know what you think

• [SIZE=-1]Materials[/SIZE]

• [SIZE=-1]Dorm-sized refrigerator (1 to 1-1/2 cubic feet).[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]50 to 100 feet of 3/8 inch hard plastic tubing (depending, vinyl isn't as good a choice here).[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]PVC fittings (90 degree elbows or straight connects, threaded or slip).[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Aquarium safe Silicone sealant.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]1/2 inch thin-wall PVC pipe (about 1 foot for the "thru-the-box" connections).[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Hand drill and 1/2 inch drill bit (or 5/16 inch if you prefer).[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Screwdrivers to fit the various hardware of the particular fridge you own.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Rio 2500 or similar pump/powerhead to push the water through the chiller.[/SIZE]

• [SIZE=-1]Materials Cost Considerations[/SIZE]

• [SIZE=-1]The fridge should set you back $89 to $199 depending on the size you choose.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]The Rio 2500 runs anywhere from $39.95 (mail order) to $69.95 at your LFS (Local Fish Store).[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]The fittings, tubing and pipe shouldn't run more than $10 to $15 bucks, depending on how much and what style you choose.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Hopefully you already have a drill and the bit(s).[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]My chiller ran a total of $175 once completed (without the 6 pack), still significantly cheaper than a commercial unit. While not as efficient as commercial chillers, this is a viable alternative and will draw your water temp down surprisingly well. Use a pre-set or variable heater to "balance" the temp within the sump and it'll become "hands-free"![/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Diagram & Instructions[/SIZE]

• [SIZE=-1]"A"=Water in from sump.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]"B"=Chilled water returned to sump[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]"C"=Freezer compartment with temp probe attached to the inside wall of the cooling box.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]"D"=3/8 inch coiled plastic tubing.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]"E"=The refrigerator housing and inner plastic box.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]If possible, remove the metal box that isolates the ice cube tray/freezer section, but leave the temp probe alone. This will give a better overall temperature control within the cooling box.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]The more coils, the better the "pull-down" effect and the more efficient the unit operates. Depending on the brand/model that you are using, you may encounter insulation between the housing and the inner box when drilling your input/output holes. There is no need to seal the door. I had originally thought of this, but decided against it as I figured I might need the access if something went wrong down the road. Besides, it's a great place to keep your additives that require refrigeration after opening (and a 6 pack!).[/SIZE]

• [SIZE=-1]Drill your access holes in the top or sides, it really doesn't matter.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Cut 2 pieces of the PVC pipe about 4 inches each.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Insert through the holes drilled and seal VERY WELL with the silicone.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]You may want to reinforce these pipes with a little Devcon 5 minute epoxy prior to sealing them with the silicone. Keeps 'em from sliding back and forth and breaking the cured silicone seal should you want to move the fridge down the road.[/SIZE]
• [SIZE=-1]Glue or thread your fittings onto these 2 access pipes.[/SIZE]
• • [SIZE=-1]I used nylon threaded nipples to connect the 3/8 inch tubing coils inside the cooling box.[/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=-1]Outside, I glued slip fittings reduced to accommodate the tubing running from the Rio 2500 sump pump to the chiller and back to the sump.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]That's all there is to it! Remember that the more coils inside the box, the better your cooling effect.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Another point to consider, the farther the run of plastic tubing from your sump to the chiller and back, the greater the line loss due to ambient room temperature. Sit the chiller as CLOSE to the sump or aquarium cabinet as possible. You could use pipe insulation wrapped around the tubingrun(s), but this is rather unsightly and not really necessary unless living in a very hot/humid environment.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Operation is straight-forward. Remember to keep the flow fast enough to prevent freezing of the coils inside the box. If equipped with a thermostat, your fridge/chiller will be easier to control. Some models only allow you to set the main box temperature, not the freezer compartment. That's another reason why I removed the aluminum ice cube divider and tray. The probe that is attached to the wall of the freezer area will now monitor the entire cavity. Try to use opaque tubing to eliminate algae growth from the sump to the unit and back. You will probably get the black, smudged variety, not the bright green that we see in and around the lighting canopy. I used the milky-white, semi-transparent variety of hard, plastic tubing and experienced this build-up after 6 months or so.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Any additional comments or questions may be directed to me, Don Carner.
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/dyiprojects/l/bldiydonchiller.htm
[/SIZE]

 

[fritz]

Wow
and HA!
I'd love to see what the draw is on your chiller with a kill-a-watt.
Also what size tank are you using this on and how much does it drop the temp at the GPH you have it set at?

Fantastic and Excellent DIY by the way!

 

[grisha]

i really was trying to figure my options for 40g and30g sump and run in to this. i think if you put this fridge through Ranco it may work the same as chiller.

 

[grisha]

do you know what is a draw on that small fridge?

 

[fritz]

Hmmmm interesting (and great idea). I wonder about the funk that collects in a fridge that is powered off. Like if you have a vacant place they say you should either leave the fridge running, or unplug it and open the door. To have a fridge off with the door closed causes something to happen. Everything will taste funny after that and you'll never get rid of it. Perhaps it doesn't matter as all the water is in a closed system.

 

[fritz]

Did the fridge come with one of those energy star things that states it's usage, watt or amp wise?

 

[grisha]

let say you use a brand new fridge
i was wondering what is a best choice for a chiller . i heard that some budget brands have a bunch of problems and i do not want to deal with that in July

 

[grisha]

this is the info i just got out of the net this morning (see link in post one)
and the most it will use is as much as this 1.5'x1.5' fridge

 

[inline6]

Make sure you don't buy a thermo-electric fridge, those won't do much for chilling. Funny I actually saw those plans and actually thought about implementing it - made me wonder if a freezer fridge set to low would work bettter.

Glad you're doing it & not me

 

[grisha]

Make sure you don't buy a thermo-electric fridge, those won't do much for chilling.

why?

 

[loismustdie]

This idea has been a failure for years. Think of how long it takes a fridge to make a beer cold. That's just 12 ounces. A fridge simply doesn't have enough BTU's to cool tank water. The fridge will run constantly run just to try and keep itself cool. Add in the Rio's which are heat and watt monsters. Your electric bill will sky rocket with a fridge running all the time. When all is said and done, you will spend less in the long haul on a chiller.
Fred, I'll plug my killowatt into my chiller and let you know. I run a 1/2HP Trade Wind in line. It hardly ever comes on, so I'll either have to turn it on on my own, or we may find ourselves waiting a while.

 

[grisha]

this exactly what i was trying to get out of you guys . good point man

 

[inline6]

why?

Thermo electric just does not get very cold for the purpose you want to use it for, you need liquid coolant used in modern day chillers.

I had a Nanoprobe chiller on a 12g reef and it barely cooled it 2 degree, even with an additional fan blowing across the heat sink.

 

[loismustdie]

Fred, I'll plug my killowatt into my chiller and let you know. I run a 1/2HP Trade Wind in line. It hardly ever comes on, so I'll either have to turn it on on my own, or we may find ourselves waiting a while.

I triggered my temp controller to turn it on. 900 watts.

 

[FRY]

you will cool better with fans then fridge,recovery rate is so slow if your lucky, you will drop temp after 24 hours it just dont work and at the end it will cost more to run then a chiller

 

[herman]

Tried it many yeas ago. DOES NOT WORK. (minimal)

 

[fritz]

Ahhhh ha.
Wow 900 Watts. That no joke, but then again you're cooling a LOT of water.

 

[loismustdie]

That's 900 watts capable of dropping my tank temp down 1 degree within 1 hour. My chiller rarely goes on, but when it does, it is usually at the end of the day. Within an hour it shuts off.
A fridge runs 120 watts which it would need to do 24/7 and would have no impact on temperature in my tank. Roughly 3 times the wattage would be used. Much less cost effective, not to mention wasteful.

 

[lola]

interesting

I'm thinking of getting a chiller

 

[DEEPWATER]

Its a cool idea ,but i argee with chris ,it just a waste of time ,money and a refig. Chillers for a small tank cost not much nowadays and fans usally keep the tank cool . Not to mention a chiller looks alot nicer in the living room then a white box with tubes coming out of it.

it says the cost os about $200 to $400 pending in the refig you buy ,chillers cost just as much and do a better job. Why save a few $$$ when you have lots of $$$ riding in your tank JMO