Its not really DIY but I've used a Marineland SOS with fairly decent results. (All hang-on overflows are prone to breaking siphon though and really *should* be avoided..)
But since you're posting in the DIY Forum, why not ask how to go about turning that 90 into a reef ready?? :wink:
I have a hang on rated for 500gph, and advertised not to loose siphon when elect drops. I'd rather make it RR if not too involved - isn't the basic idea just to install a glass column to create an overflow and drill and isntall a bulkhead in the bottom of the tank?
>...and advertised not to loose siphon when elect drops....
Oh, really? I am sure they are going to back up that claim with $10K of insurance with each overflow that you brought.
What you described above is a standpipe version of overflow. There are many methods. Another way is to install large bulkhead on the side, for example. BTW, you can use regular PVC pipe instead of glass pipe.
>...how hard is an overflow to install. Is one enough.
It is very easy if you can drill the hole(s). For acrylic tank, you just get a circular saw, for glass tank, it is more difficult... diamond bit or bring it to glass shop to drill.
As to the number of overflow, it depends on the desired circulation rate and the size of the overflow(s). Obviously it is determine on case-by-case basis. Tell us more about your specifics...
I don't have the tank yet, so everything is what if. I want a sump and hate the idea of a hot overflow, so just researching options. What are the advantages/dis-advantages of overflow with bottom drilled vs drilling the top of tank for overflow? Will probably look for a used tank 20-55 gal for sump, add in sump skimmer, maybe have a fudge area and mag 7 or 9 for return. At this point, just doing my homework.
I was given a used 55 with two holes drilled up top and I hate the look of it. I'd of rather gone HOT. It is intrusive and setting up/testing propper anti-siphon is critical since the holes pretty much have to be below the water level. Also with side install you have to put in elbows which create more back pressure on your pump. If I had my way it would be standard corner boxes with two holes (in & out) at the bottom, it will make for easy hard plumbing later. and it looks clean from all sides.
If I had my way it would be standard corner boxes with two holes (in & out) at the bottom, it will make for easy hard plumbing later. and it looks clean from all sides.
There ya go! :wink:
(Sounds like the best way to go about it to me too..)
Also, with this type of config you can run a nice strong return pump with something like a SCWD and/or SeaSwirls and/or OceansMotion or whatever else to make the water flow a bit more "random" which many corals and possibly some fish will appreciate. - If you can make it strong enough to be the only flow you need, it'll help to keep things looking neat and tidy in the main tank (no clunky powerheads to look at..)
I have a CPR Acrylic overflow, works well, keeps siphon when the power goes out, but its not a great solution. 80 -120 $$ its only 30/per hole at the LFS here + overflow kit. I would get it drilled; get it drilled.
The First time you come home to an empty sump, fried pump, and ruined floor (and possibly irate downstairs neighbors) you will wish you had. It always seems to happen when we are on vacation.
That said if you want mine I'll sell it to you next month when I move.
Just a thought here. Especially if you have not bought the tank already.
You might consider an in tank fuge with some supplimental filtration. And that way avoid the possibility of floods alltogether. And with the money saved buy a larger tank to begin with.
I wish I had done that and bought a 75g or 120g instead of my 55g. But live and learn. And would have more free space for the fish and corals.