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jandree22

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So I understand I can use a computer fan matched up with AC/DC adapter to make a cheapie canopy fan. I was thinking of doing the "one in, one out" configuration, but after thinking about it, I'd rather not hassle with the "out" fan eventually going bad because of the moist salty air. Long story short, I'll have an "in" fan with a fan-less vent on the other side.

A) Below are the components I've found, do they look good?
Fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835119035
($10, but it's 80CFM at about 25dB)
AC/DC Adapter - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2049690

B) I understand that you can just cut/splice the fan and AC/DC adapter wires and connect +2+ and -2-. HOWEVER, while there are two wires with the AC/DC adapter, there are three with the fan... red(+), black(-), and yellow(?). Soooo... how does this hook up?

C) Is there any cheaper source than RadioShack for the AC/DC adapter?

Thanks
 
A

Anonymous

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Blow in and not out.

The links you posted look good.

These type of fans don't last forever, but they are cheap enough that replacing them isn't a big deal.

Louey
 

Shipbuilder

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yup the yellow wire is a R.P.M. sensor for monitoring software. My Asus mobo has an alarm I can set if the fan runs below whatever r.p.m. I want....fan faliure early warning basically.

I have an A/C fan in my hood blowing out....hot moist air and all.
been running 24/7 for a little over a year so far.
Sunon brand part# 1083HBL $18 if I remember right.
only 41cfm but tank (90gal) does not get over 80deg with one 175m.h., and six 54w T-5's. very quiet too.
Before this one I used the case fan and power supply out of my old computer. fan did not last but a few months. Got another fan and it also died shortly after. come to find out those type fans are not "sealed" and the humid salty air fries their guts in short order. the Sunon fan I have now has a sealed motor housing. So far so good.
 

Shipbuilder

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yes sir, it plugs into a normal household outlet.
only draws 12 watts. I forgot to mention we keep our house t-stat set at 70. I am sure this is why my tank stays below 80. Not because of the fan alone.
also the m.h. bulb is situated only a few inches away from the fan and the reflector is acting like a duct helping pull air across the bulb. the air inlet (4" dia) is on the opposite side of the tank with a lint filter.
 

fyrefysh

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If you're going with a PC fan, go with a Vantec Stealth series, these things give optimum output and are very quiet. Try to go with a fan that has more than one ball bearing and try to not go with a brushless fan (they are good fans, but don't last as long as one with bearings). I would opt for a 120mm fan as these have a larger CFM value and are quieter because they are usually a lower RPM than an 80mm or a 92mm fan.
 

jandree22

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Well, I put this off for a while, but now it's getting into summer and I really need to order something.

I was looking into the Orion fans, but I'm confused. I've narrowed it down to the fans with part numbers of #OA938AP-11-1TB or #OA938AP-11-1WB. On their FAQ page it says
6. Termination
W - 12" lead wires
T - Terminal-type fan
(Terminals require the use of a fan power cord
or custom connector.)

Basically, I'm trying to figure out which one comes with the normal wall plug? I'm thinking it's the Terminal-type, but what does the stuff in parenthesis mean?

Thanks again...
 

ChrisRD

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I don't think either one does...

The terminal type probably has terminals on it that are intended to be used with a certain type of connector. Orion probably sells power cords with the correct connectors. You might also be able to solder a generic power cord to the terminals.

The other type likely just has some lead wires that would have to be connected to a lamp cord. You could get a cheap extension cord, cutoff the receptacle end, and wire it up to the leads.

It might be best to ask someone at Orion to clear it up before ordering.
 

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