Grain Direction

[Anonymous]

When building a stand to stain should the grain run vertical or horizontal? I recall the grain running vertical from when I use to build cabinates. Also what is a good inexpensive compound miter saw?

 

[Anonymous]

My grain is horizontal.. but then again the grain isn't structural just an 1/8th of oak ply.

 

[Anonymous]

When building a stand to stain should the grain run vertical or horizontal? I recall the grain running vertical from when I use to build cabinates. Also what is a good inexpensive compound miter saw?

I can cut compound miter's with a regular skill saw on 4x4 lumber. Trick of the trade :wink: The stain should go with the grain of the wood.

 

[Anonymous]

When building a stand to stain should the grain run vertical or horizontal? I recall the grain running vertical from when I use to build cabinates. Also what is a good inexpensive compound miter saw?

I can cut compound miter's with a regular skill saw on 4x4 lumber. Trick of the trade :wink: The stain should go with the grain of the wood.

I know when you stain to run the brush and rag with the grain. Should the grain be up-down or side-side? Can you cut compound miters on crown molding with a skill saw?

 

[Anonymous]

I'm with sfsu.. - Are you asking about structual integrity??

If so, it should be vertical.


Thats one of the tricks to breaking boards in most kids martial arts programs..

 

[Anonymous]

I'm with sfsu.. - Are you asking about structual integrity??

If so, it should be vertical.


Thats one of the tricks to breaking boards in most kids martial arts programs..

I know about it from a structural stand point. For cabinates and nice furniture doesn't grain usuall run up-down?

 

[Anonymous]

Grain mostly runs up and down on cabinet doors and on the stiles. The grain runs horizontal on the carcass of the cabinet - you get less seems running the plywood horizontal on cabs. Drawers fronts go either way.

 

[Anonymous]

So I guess I should go horizontal with the grains when I wrap my stand and make the doors match.

 

[Anonymous]

I know about it from a structural stand point. For cabinates and nice furniture doesn't grain usuall run up-down?

Ahhh.. - Depends on the material I guess.

Pine generally looks better when its laid out so the grain runs with the longest length. - With oak, you can do just about anything.

 

[Anonymous]

If you are using plywood and the stand is less than 4 feet wide I would run the grain vertical - if the stand is wider than 4 feet I would turn the ply sideways and run the grain horizontal. The doors should run vertical.

 

[Anonymous]

The stand is going to be close to 5ft finished lenght. Would it not look better for the doors to flow with the grain of the stand? I was thinking to just use the cut out for the doors.

 

[Anonymous]

You can use the cutout if you like - Doors just seem to look better with verticle grain.

I have to faux some plywood panelling tomoz so it will look like the kitchen cabinets. It is 5/8 cherry plywood that must look like very dark mahogany cabinets.[/url]

 

[bleedingthought]

Dewalt has good compound miter saws. I definitely recommend just about any product Dewalt makes. Just make sure you get one that is big enough. I personally like the 12 inch as a standard as the 10 inch won't let you cut certain things, like 1x8s flat. Ryobi is considerably cheaper but perhaps not as good of a brand, but will do the job, I suppose.

HTH

 

[jschoon]

my 2 cents...

The grain can go either way. IMO for most work vertical on the doors and vertical on all vertical pieces, horizontal on all stiles and base molds and top moldings. In any case I say you do what is pleasing to your eyes. If however you need structural stability then have the grain run with the longer length of the board. For example if your board is 5" x 24", run the grain the length of the 24 not the short side. Doing this can (running the short side) can lead to bowing or collapse.

As far as a miter saw, if you are not looking for professional grade and not counting on this saw for use everyday all day, Delta makes one you can get at Lowes for about $100. I have one for occasional use and it has lasted 3 years with no problems. I used it to build a 16' x 32' deck for my hottub and also to cut fence boards for a 1 acre yard. It has been very reliable.

Hope this helps...

 

[Anonymous]

Structurally it should be fine. The corners are going to be 2x6 in the front with 2x4 in the short side of the "L" and a second 2x4 tieing them together. Kind of overkill, but I want one large opening and pleanty of feel good.

 

[Anonymous]

When building a stand to stain should the grain run vertical or horizontal? I recall the grain running vertical from when I use to build cabinates. Also what is a good inexpensive compound miter saw?

I can cut compound miter's with a regular skill saw on 4x4 lumber. Trick of the trade :wink: The stain should go with the grain of the wood.

I know when you stain to run the brush and rag with the grain. Should the grain be up-down or side-side? Can you cut compound miters on crown molding with a skill saw?

Crown molding is a different beast and I would pefer a miter saw. I have one you can borrow.

 

[Anonymous]

When building a stand to stain should the grain run vertical or horizontal? I recall the grain running vertical from when I use to build cabinates. Also what is a good inexpensive compound miter saw?

I can cut compound miter's with a regular skill saw on 4x4 lumber. Trick of the trade :wink: The stain should go with the grain of the wood.

I know when you stain to run the brush and rag with the grain. Should the grain be up-down or side-side? Can you cut compound miters on crown molding with a skill saw?

Crown molding is a different beast and I would pefer a miter saw. I have one you can borrow.

I don't guess you live in the great houston area?

 

[Anonymous]

Also, does anyone know of a hidden hindge that does not require a hole in the door?

 

[bleedingthought]

I only put magnet catches on the doors for my stand. Not only are they hidden, but this way I can remove the doors all together when I'm messing the the sump. Fast, easy, and it looks good!

 

[trido]

Regarding compound miter saws. No such thing as a good and inexpensive one. If its a one time use thing for you. Ryobi or Delta. If you want a saw that can take a beating (tools thrown on top of, etc) and still be within a 1/4 degree of accuracy in a few years. I loved my last couple Hitachi saws. And lastly, The DeWalt 12" saw has been good to me so far. Its truely not old enough to tell the "test of time". Bleedinthought makes an excellent point about the ability to make a bigger cut with a 12". You cant cut a miter on a 2x6 with a 10" saw without flipping the board.

Are you building the whole face of the stand out of one sheet of plywood? If so you likely wont have a choice but to run the grain vertical unless you can special order a sheet with the grain opposite of normal. If you do use plywood, your idea of using your cuttouts for the doors will work like a charm. Cut clean, use some trim to hide the cuts and viola' your done. Bleedingthoughts magnet holds will work great with that one as well.