Moving the sump to the basement and adding a refugium. I would like to save some space and possibly the use of another pump by having the tanks above one another. Diagram is pretty self explanatory... first off, will this work? Next.. is there an easier way to safeguard from power failures and return from the fugre than what I have pictured here with the overflows?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
check my basement sump plans
- Thread starter _range_
- Start date
I think that having a back up for the sump itself is unecessary. If you design you sump to be only half full when running it should be able to hold any watyer that back siphons during power faliures. That is the standard practice. Having a back up is just one more thing to fail on you. I can think of a couple more reasons as to why I dont think it is a good idea but wont detail them. Otherwise it looks like a solid plan to me. I have nearly the same thing on my system. If you need Ideas there are pics throughout in my build thread.
trido..
for your tank, is it a reef ready tank?
if so what do you have for a return pump?
i'm going to do the same with my 110 gal RR oceanic, the sump will be a 55 gal with a 30 gal refuge, my pump i'm going to use is a seahorse 1/2 hp, i believe it is rated at 3600 gph, that would be at about a 10' rise to the tank. the overflows are rated at 1200 gph each.
just curious what your thought are?
thanks
for your tank, is it a reef ready tank?
if so what do you have for a return pump?
i'm going to do the same with my 110 gal RR oceanic, the sump will be a 55 gal with a 30 gal refuge, my pump i'm going to use is a seahorse 1/2 hp, i believe it is rated at 3600 gph, that would be at about a 10' rise to the tank. the overflows are rated at 1200 gph each.
just curious what your thought are?
thanks
Mpls reefer":3hwvoehd said:trido..
for your tank, is it a reef ready tank?
if so what do you have for a return pump?
i'm going to do the same with my 110 gal RR oceanic, the sump will be a 55 gal with a 30 gal refuge, my pump i'm going to use is a seahorse 1/2 hp, i believe it is rated at 3600 gph, that would be at about a 10' rise to the tank. the overflows are rated at 1200 gph each.
just curious what your thought are?
thanks
My first thought is that a 3600GPH return pump might be a little much. However, you do have 10' of head to deal with (im assuming from the basement) and I dont know what kind of losses you will get with that set up. Alot of reefers try not to max out both of the overflow in case one gets plugged. Also the general rule of thumb is to run a 10X total (tank volume) through their sump or whatever the skimmer can process through the intake. I use a mag 18 as a return pump and it is T'd off to feed the refugium as well as having one of the returns running through the fuge. Almost like the pic above actually, I have two overflows and the return split in two as well.. The overflows On an AGA (mine) are rated for 900 GPH each. With the T back into the fuge I can adjust the excess to where I know Im not maxing the overflows. My tank is RR.
ok ..see what you say..this would be the setup
both overflows aprox 1200 gph per side, would drain into 1 run into the basement, that would then t off into 2 runs, (having 1 run into would save having 2 holes in the wood floor), so the drain would branch into 2, 1 would run into the sump,(55 gal), then the other would run into the refuge, valved to control water flow, through chiller, then back to the tank, aprox 10' with elbows and ball valves to slow down flow if possible.
sound right?
let me know if you think i should go with different?
thanks
both overflows aprox 1200 gph per side, would drain into 1 run into the basement, that would then t off into 2 runs, (having 1 run into would save having 2 holes in the wood floor), so the drain would branch into 2, 1 would run into the sump,(55 gal), then the other would run into the refuge, valved to control water flow, through chiller, then back to the tank, aprox 10' with elbows and ball valves to slow down flow if possible.
sound right?
let me know if you think i should go with different?
thanks
If you absolutely have to T the drains into one line to get through the floor. I probably wouldnt split them back into two again and simply by pass the refuge. You can just feed the fuge with the T on the return line and use the fuge valve to control the amount of flow back into the tank.
yes.. i see what your saying ,so have a T with a ball valve on it as it goes back to the tank on the return side..?.... i'm also thinking i'll need a ball valve on the return after the pump to valve it down just incase it's too much flow to the tank.
for my skimmer i have a euro reef ES-2, so hopefully that will be ok for the 110.
for my skimmer i have a euro reef ES-2, so hopefully that will be ok for the 110.
This is what I'm thinking of for my fuge. Drawn below is a Baffle/tray on the entrance to moderate the force of incoming water; one large compartment for some sand, rock, and macros; a baffle on left to isolate the overflow back to the sump. Bubble control will be in the sump.
Is it worth it to implement these baffles?.. or will the flow already be as calm and regular as desired for a refugium feeding from a T off my return from sump and overflowing back into the sump as pictured in the original post above?
Is it worth it to implement these baffles?.. or will the flow already be as calm and regular as desired for a refugium feeding from a T off my return from sump and overflowing back into the sump as pictured in the original post above?
_range_":3dg71x5n said:This is what I'm thinking of for my fuge. Drawn below is a Baffle/tray on the entrance to moderate the force of incoming water; one large compartment for some sand, rock, and macros; a baffle on left to isolate the overflow back to the sump. Bubble control will be in the sump.
Is it worth it to implement these baffles?.. or will the flow already be as calm and regular as desired for a refugium feeding from a T off my return from sump and overflowing back into the sump as pictured in the original post above?
Actually, your drawing is in your first post somehow. Oh well.
The baffles are a good idea the first one will keep micro bubble from covering your algea and any thing else you put in there (frags, predator hithciker crabs, etc). the second baffle will help keep things from getting sucked into the overflow. MY fuge is exactly like that only reverse. I have the basket as an overflow and a quick DIY bubble tray for the intake. If you are only feeding it with a T off of the return pump you wont have any micro bubbles and will just want to use the nozzle as a jet for flow. I have a Bubble tray for my tank overflow that feeds into there as well. My fuge was too calm and I couldnt grow cheato so it needed extra flow. One question. Do you have bulkheads and built in overflows or are you using HOB overflows. Built in overflows and bulkheads are MUCH safer than HOB.
Since the return from my sump will be post bubble trap I should not need to worry about micro bubbles coming into the fuge - and will use the nozzle as a jet and keep the exit baffle to protect my critters from the overflow.
The display tank is a 105 reef ready Oceanic with a single built in corner overflow. I've yet to decide how I'm going to drill the refugium for an overflow - I don't want to deal with a hang-on and siphons. Either I'll be drilling the top corner of the refugium, a 38 all-glass (tempered bottom only), and fitting it with a bulkhead - or just using a dremel diamond bit to cut some teeth direcly into the top corner of the glass and building a simple acrylic box onto the back with a pipe down to the sump. Will I be able to drill a large enough hole into the glass for a bulkhead without cracking it? Or should I just break out the dremel?
The display tank is a 105 reef ready Oceanic with a single built in corner overflow. I've yet to decide how I'm going to drill the refugium for an overflow - I don't want to deal with a hang-on and siphons. Either I'll be drilling the top corner of the refugium, a 38 all-glass (tempered bottom only), and fitting it with a bulkhead - or just using a dremel diamond bit to cut some teeth direcly into the top corner of the glass and building a simple acrylic box onto the back with a pipe down to the sump. Will I be able to drill a large enough hole into the glass for a bulkhead without cracking it? Or should I just break out the dremel?
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
