Are you happy with your diy LED fixture?

[NL146]

A couple of questions for those who have done diy LED fixtures.
1. What size tank
2. How many and what size heatsinks did you use (length/width/fin height). Heatsinks seem to be between 6 to 8 inches wide.
3. How many LEDs per heatsink and what ratio of blue to white
4. What lens do you use
5. Are you happy with the light coverage/spread in the tank? Do you have dark areas?
6. How high did you have to raise the fixture in order to have good spread?

Thanks.

 

[Kendall]

My tank is 84x30x30. I am going to be replacing 3 250w and 2 400 halides. I have built 1 fixture that covers one section of the tank. The lights are 22"x8" on a 26"x10" DIY heatsink. The heat sink is 1 3/4" wide aluminum C channel that used to hold my verticle blinds. I cut it into 26" lengths and connected the rows with flat aluminum strips. It has 1 4" fan on it.

I am using 60, 3w leds. Some are Cree, some are from E-Bay. I like 1:1 blue to cool white. They are spaced 2" apart and have no optics. I tried 70 degree optics but did not notice a diff. and it reduced light spread. They are powered by mean well 35-700 drivers, non dimmable. I just want them to turn on and off, not interested in sunrise, sunset, storm effect, etc etc.

The fixture is mounted parallel over the tank. Corals have reacted very well to this fixture, even at the bottom. I am going to add 1 more row to get better overall spread front to back. It is lighting a 34"x30" section very nicely. I am very happy with it!


Other possitives, my chiller has not turned on since removing 2 250w and 1 400 halide, and my electric bill is dropping to record lows!!! No more worring about blowing fuses and using heavy duty timers, which slowely melted anyway, and heavy guage extension cords.

 

[TRUKINGNY]

My tank is 84x30x30. I am going to be replacing 3 250w and 2 400 halides. I have built 1 fixture that covers one section of the tank. The lights are 22"x8" on a 26"x10" DIY heatsink. The heat sink is 1 3/4" wide aluminum C channel that used to hold my verticle blinds. I cut it into 26" lengths and connected the rows with flat aluminum strips. It has 1 4" fan on it.

I am using 60, 3w leds. Some are Cree, some are from E-Bay. I like 1:1 blue to cool white. They are spaced 2" apart and have no optics. I tried 70 degree optics but did not notice a diff. and it reduced light spread. They are powered by mean well 35-700 drivers, non dimmable. I just want them to turn on and off, not interested in sunrise, sunset, storm effect, etc etc.

The fixture is mounted parallel over the tank. Corals have reacted very well to this fixture, even at the bottom. I am going to add 1 more row to get better overall spread front to back. It is lighting a 34"x30" section very nicely. I am very happy with it!


Other possitives, my chiller has not turned on since removing 2 250w and 1 400 halide, and my electric bill is dropping to record lows!!! No more worring about blowing fuses and using heavy duty timers, which slowely melted anyway, and heavy guage extension cords.

How much in total did it cost for you to do this if you don't mind me asking??


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

 

[Kendall]

propably around $500

 

[chinatown]

yes i am.

 

[TRUKINGNY]

propably around $500

Thats it!!! Damn I go on some websites and see some crazy prices... Got me thinking now lol


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

 

[NL146]

My tank is 84x30x30. I am going to be replacing 3 250w and 2 400 halides. I have built 1 fixture that covers one section of the tank. The lights are 22"x8" on a 26"x10" DIY heatsink. The heat sink is 1 3/4" wide aluminum C channel that used to hold my verticle blinds. I cut it into 26" lengths and connected the rows with flat aluminum strips. It has 1 4" fan on it.

I am using 60, 3w leds. Some are Cree, some are from E-Bay. I like 1:1 blue to cool white. They are spaced 2" apart and have no optics. I tried 70 degree optics but did not notice a diff. and it reduced light spread. They are powered by mean well 35-700 drivers, non dimmable. I just want them to turn on and off, not interested in sunrise, sunset, storm effect, etc etc.

The fixture is mounted parallel over the tank. Corals have reacted very well to this fixture, even at the bottom. I am going to add 1 more row to get better overall spread front to back. It is lighting a 34"x30" section very nicely. I am very happy with it!


Other possitives, my chiller has not turned on since removing 2 250w and 1 400 halide, and my electric bill is dropping to record lows!!! No more worring about blowing fuses and using heavy duty timers, which slowely melted anyway, and heavy guage extension cords.

Thanks for the info. Do you have pics of your diy heatsink?

 

[NL146]

yes i am.

Thanks. I know I asked a lot of questions, but can you provide a bit more information on light spread, height, etc?

 

[Kendall]

Thats it!!! Damn I go on some websites and see some crazy prices... Got me thinking now lol


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

That's the beauty of DIY! Looking at my tank you can't tell the difference between my DIY fixture or the top of the line manufactured unit. But, open my canopy and you'll see the difference.

Nothing wrong with spending money on a complete unit, some people don't have the time, tools, or knowlegde to DIY. I happen to like DIY and the savings are a bonus!

Oh yea, mine is mounted 6" above the water.

 

[chinatown]

1. What size tank - 34g solana
2. How many and what size heatsinks did you use (length/width/fin height). - 8 1/2" by 14"
3. How many LEDs per heatsink and what ratio of blue to white - 24 LEDs, 50:50
4. What lens do you use : 40 and 80 degree optics
5. Are you happy with the light coverage/spread in the tank? Do you have dark areas? - yes, no dark areas, full coverage.
6. How high did you have to raise the fixture in order to have good spread? 10 inches.

Answered above.

Total cost ~$300

I run them at less than 50% cause they're too bright.