Need info for upgrading MH ballast

[PDang]

Hello to all reefers,

I currently have the dual 175W MH & 2-110W VHO system that I bought from Advanced Aquatics. I like to upgrade my MH lighting to either 250W or 400W. Is it possible that I can replace the MH ballast only? If it is, how difficult is it to replace the ballast? Is it something simple like unplug the existing ballast and then plug in the new one? The current system I have, I believe made by Hamilton Technology because there is a label on the enclosure box, if this info can be of any help. By the way, should I go with the 250 or the 400? I like to go with the 400 (I think most people will recommend the 400), but I'm concern about the heat it will generate. The reason I'm upgrading is for the SPS corals that I have and I don't think my dual 175W is enough. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Phong Dang

 

[toptank]

I can not answer your question regarding the ballast but I can advise you on the 250 vs the 400s. I just recently (6 months) changed from 250s to 400ers and believe me they get hotter. I also know of someother that have changed and they said, " I am not impress with them". I wouldn't get them unless I was going to run a chiller.

IMO and IME my SPSs did real well under my 250s with VHO suppliments and was able to keep the tank water under 82 but when I put the 400s on I could not keep it under 84-86. I have a 10" high canopy with 4 x 4" fans and a fan over the sump. I am in the process of ordering 3 x 250s again.

Barry

 

[PDang]

Any one????

 

[toptank]

I would call the manufacture.

 

[PDang]

Thanks for the info everybody. I will give Hamilton a call and see what I can find out. Hopefully it won't be much work (like rewiring since I'm very nervous when doing anything with electrical stuffs). I'm planning to go with the 250W and I will be ordering the new bulbs when I figure out about the ballast.

Phong

 

[racer340]

Halide ballasts are easy to wire,I would recommend going to an electrical supply co. to get the ballasts.I paid 53.00 each for my 250 watt units at cooper electric here in jersey.I have seen comparable prices on the net also.Just make sure you make the proper hot and neutral wire connections.Heres a URL with wiring infoHalide lighting for 100.00

 

[Cali_reef1]

I have done some research into MH for my new 180 gal and I decided to use three 400W MH with two 110W Actinic. I bought two used PFO setups from “TopTank”; I guess he had heat problems with that much light. I will be using a chiller to cool the tank during the summer months anyway, so I am not too concern about the extra heat from the 400W. PFO ballast is one of the better commercial built units and everyone I asked likes them. As for modifying the 175W ballast, I don’t think it is worth doing that when you can buy new single PFO ballast for less then $100, or a two ballast unit for $150. You can reuse your reflector and bulb sockets.

Put your used Hamilton ballast on ebay and get some money back!!

 

[RyanH]

I had the same question and I called Hamilton. They basically told me that you can add a 250W ballast and everything else pretty much stays the same. If you go up to 400W, the wiring has to be changed so it is a much bigger hassle. Hamilton was very helpful on the issue. Give them a call and they will give you all the information you need, including how much it will cost. HTH

Ryan

 

[Anonymous]

hi.
It is a stupid comment, but I want to make it anyway.

To upgrade the light setup to a different wattage, you need to replace *BOTH* the ballast and the bulb. Just don't want you to use the same old bulb on your new ballast...

For most of the light setup I see, the reflector, light hood, and the bulb socket are the only thing that can be reused.

 

[AnotherGoldenTeapot]

Ballasts are usually bolted into the box with the wires connected by clamps. So, in priciple, it's very easy to change the ballast.

If you are using standard bulbs now and plan to move to HQI bulbs then you might have to drill a hole in the box to mount the ignitor on. I suspect you would not need to do this as the manufacturer probably has one remote balast box for all of its lights (so will have spare holes).

The light fitting may need to be changed depending on what connector(s) your new bulbs have - likely to be E40 or FC/2 on the new bulbs.

On an E40 light fitting it *does* matter which way around the wires go.

If you're confident with wiring up devices that will kill you if you stuff-up then you should have no problems. Make sure the earth connection is as good, or better, than before you start

A possibly nuisance will be a thermal problem in the hood if it's not desgn to withstand the higher tempreatures generated by the new bulbs - a fan would probably fix this.

If the remote balalst box is not big enough to fit the ballasts then you'll obviously need to construct a new one too.

Really what you're doing is a DIY set-up. Your hood has been made for you (a big time saver) - you should be able to find instructions for the rest easy enough.