How Do I Improve Corner Overflow Flow?

[stevebydac]

Anyone with experience on this?? Thanks for your help. I have a 180g with a corner overflow. Two 1" lines inside the overflow -- high on its back wall --feed my sump. The upper of these two 1" lines is 2/3 full as it pours, so I think that MAYBE more flow rate to the sump is possible - not sure. Two challenges. 1) My tank water level is too high. The water brushes up against the glass cover, though there is no danger of it spilling out. Aesthetically though it sucks. 2) I am trying to switch from my current Little Giant 3MDQX-SC pump (916GPH @ 5ft) to a new Iwaki MD40RLXT (1140GPH @ 5ft) and wonder if the overflow can take it. When I add more water via a Python hose running from my sink (while the Little giant is running), the water level in the overflow starts rising, so I'm really apprehensive about switching to the stronger pump. I can't drill more/bigger lines--not an option. Suggestions? Do I break off some teeth of the overflow? Or cut the notches deeper? Throttle back my new pump with a ball valve? Or forget the stronger pump? Ideas? Thanks...

 

[SPC]

You can enlarge the notches in your overflow with a Drimmel tool. Turn off the pump, siphon out some water (enough to give you room to work and not get electrocuted :wink: ) and have at it. I am not sure what the best way is to deal with the shavings, maybe someone else will help on this part.
Steve

 

[ReefLion]

It doesn't sound like notching the overflow box is going to increase your flow through the return lines much. I would be hesitant to push the envelope pump-wise, because your return lines will only slow down once you get some growth in there.

The only options I see are: (1) drilling wider or more return holes (not possible from what you say), (2) using an external overflow box in addiiton to your internal overflow, or (3) restricting the flow from a stronger pump. Number (3) is a stupid option, because all you are going to do is spend money to get the same gph you have now.

If you just want more water movement, I would set up a closed loop that pulls water directly from the display tank and returns it there. Some people like to pull water from the overflow chamber, and if you did it this way it sounds like taking out some teeth or deepening some teeth on the box would be advisable. The Dremel will work fine; I wouldn't be concerned with the shavings. Another option is just drill some 1/4" holes with a regular drill just below the teeth. Not enough to bring the water level down to the holes, but enough to just help with the flow from the display to the overflow chamber.

Tim

 

[hossfly]

cut your return line and install a "t" fitting. where the tee branches off, put a valve and to that attach a hose or pipe to return to your sump. just adjust your valve to put the unneeded water back into the sump. it will take a little trial and error but you'll get the hang of it. hope that's not to hard to understand my directions. it's a pretty simple layout.

 

[IBJJ]

http://www.rl180reef.com/frames.htm

Durso Standpipe....makes the waterfall go away. I did it to my 180 and its almost silent now.

 

[ReefLion]

Two notes:

First, I used the term "return line" loosely in the post above. I was referring to the lines from the tank to the sump.

Second, I just thought of another idea I would NOT recommend, which is putting a pump in the overflow chamber and pumping water INTO one of the overflow lines. It's a great idea as long as the pump works, but when it fails you are flooded for sure. Why did I bother to type that awful idea out? I don't know. Just don't do it.

Tim

 

[stevebydac]

Thank you for the ideas --you guys are great. I didn't think of drilling small holes in the overflow box walls. I suppose you keep drilling/watching until the proper level is set. Hmmm I may try that as part of my solution instead of messing with the teeth themselves. I WAS aware of the ball/gate valve idea, but I thought I read somewhere that that is risky??? Something about if it gets a little clogged while partially open (which it would be in this case) your tank or sump will overflow --since you had finetuned the flow so perfectly with no margin for error. Has anyone used this method long-term? Any disasters? It DOES seem like a great and simple way to solve this, but how risky is it? Thanks again.

 

[SPC]

Posted by stevebydac:

I WAS aware of the ball/gate valve idea, but I thought I read somewhere that that is risky???

Steve, the ball valve they are talking about would be located after your pump to slow down the flow of water entering your tank, it has nothing to do with the line going to your sump.
If you want to drop the water level in your tank then you will need to get water out of it. If one of your overflow pipes is only 2/3 full then this tells me that you need to get more water in the overflow box in some way. If it were me I would drill, cut or whatever to get the water in the overflow box and stick with the same pump to allow room for error (ex snails, caulepra etc... getting in the overflow pipe).
Steve

 

[MarkO1]

FWIW, the elevation of the water in my tank is governed by the height of the weir on my overflow. I had this same problem. My overflow has (had) a silicone rubber overflow fitting fastened to the top of my overflow. Once I removed it, my water level dropped by about 1/2" solving my problem.

One bit of advice...
you want your weir to control the elevation of the water in your tank. Do not let the water in your overflow get too high as you mention. You may need to remove gaskets/fittings in your overflow to ensure that you are not restricting the water return into your sump.
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