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LA-Lawman

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My coral acclimations is about 30min to 45min..
I have a few lee's specimen containers.. I clip them to the tank and place the coral and the bag water in them. they sit in the tank so to = the temp between the two.. then over the time i add tank water to acclimate. I also only acclimate my specimens under PC lighting. I leave the halides off. sometimes running only actinics... If for any reason i see any infection. they get a lugols dip also....


hth
 
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Anonymous

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Its a waste of money thats what it is. I don't bother acclimatising corals, theres no point. Only need to acclimatise them to the light if they are a bit fragile.
 

kanapino

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what is lugols?a

It is a Iodide solution. Xenia love it.

Some people have been known to use it as an iodine dip before acclimationg as a means to rid off any parasites. It is also used similar to a freshwater dip.

I was always acclimate at least 2 hours and even sometimes drip acclimate, when necessary. Corals and fishes are too precious to risk anything error.

Brian
 

danmhippo

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GL, I don't get how can acclimating corals being a waste of money. At most it's a waste of time, but I could hardly agree to that statement either. Acclimation is necessary if you do not know how much stress it has endured before reaching your tank.

I agree wholely with LA-Lawman's suggestion.

Lugol's solution is not a waste of money. It's quite useful especially if you are making coral cuttings.
 
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Anonymous

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I usually test the salinity of the water the coral was shipped in and if it is very different from mine I will acclimate longer.
 

Robin Goodfellow

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hi.
It is a Iodide solution. Xenia love it.

:roll:

Xenia love many, many thing too.

Theoretically, you should match the temperature and salinity at the minimum, and preferably, the light spectrum too. LA-Lawman's method is what I do.
 
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Anonymous

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Of course it's a waste of money if you don't need it, I've never used it and I have never lost a coral or a frag.
 

jorcutt

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I'm with you Green. Fish obviously need to be acclimated until pH, sg, and temp all match, but I see no need with corals. Iodine dips on the other hand can be a priceless tool.
 
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Anonymous

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How come they are a priceless tool? Never used one, never will.
 

Robin Goodfellow

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hi.
My opinion is opposite to jorcutt's. I feel that coral needs as much acclimation as fish, if not more. For tidepool coral and anemone (local to So. Cal.), it may not be an issue. But if you have a $40 Acropora frag, don't skim the process unless it is an emergency.
 

liquid

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FWIW, I know a guy on #reefs that didn't quarantine some wild heads of Acropora and it crashed half his tank. Was *not* pretty...

Shane
 

jorcutt

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Always better to be safe then sorry, right? Not saying you shouldn't spend the time on it, just that IME it's not necessary to draw it out to the same extent as fish. My situation is a bit different working for a reef wholesaler, as I'd have to acclimate hundreds of corals each week. But I am constantly moving corals between our main coral system and our display/photograph tank which has a higher salinity, temp, and pH, and have yet to experience a problem with a single peice that I've moved.

As far as the Iodine dip, Green Lobster, when I get in 50 euphyllias, you better believe I'm going to dip them! Most exporting countries don't float them, and you never know how many could be coming in with minor damage you can't see until the next day. Pieces that have been sitting at a good LFS store for a little while I would not be concerned with dipping as any problems should be visible. Though again...it never hurts to be cautious.
 
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Anonymous

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Well I think your situation is a little different to most peoples. I think too many people get sucked into buying bs that they don't need for example iodine.
 

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