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SnowManSnow

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I've decided to use a T5 fixture over my new 120.

There are several options out there, but only a few big names. Among those big names, namely TEKlight and Powermodule, there are HUGE $$ jumps and skips, another one that people are really enjoying and writing great reviews on is the new ELOS line.

The powermodule seems to be out of my price range. I don't want to have to try and justify spending almost $1000 on a T5 fixture. I've even looked at DIYing a retrofit, but with individual reflectors it comes to $800 haha.

what would you guys say is the next step down? Aquatinics? TEK? ELOS?

Thanks for any input :)

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Ben1

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Well I think that T5's are a good choice! :lol: I use a tek 8 bulb 36" fixture. They dont make this one in 8 bulb anymore.

The important thing with T5's is that the unit is using Single Bulb Reflectors of good quality. That makes all the difference. Also bulb selection is key to get started. I still think for a 24" wide/24" deep tank I would go 6 or 8 bulbs if you plan to keep SPS/Clams and have SPS low in the tank.

I love my T5's, my chiller was working overtime when i was running halides and only runs a few times a day in the summer.

This unit is nice and only $420.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... SunlightT5

Once you add bulbs that jumps a bit though, but allows you to pick your own combo of bulbs to start.
 

SnowManSnow

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the downside to the TEKlights, from what I've seen is that they don't employ active cooling on the unit... and i didn't THINK they had individual reflectors. Perhaps it was the first mods of the TEKlights that didn't have the reflectors.

I would REALLY love to get away from using fans to cool my tank .. well.. because they are loud. That being said.. It's hard to justify paying another $400 just for active cooling.

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Unarce

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Building your own is a good option, too. Just be sure you get ballasts that overdrive the bulbs, as that and the quality of the individual reflectors are the biggest keys.

T5s are pretty amazing, and bring out colors you can't get with MH (though, not to everyone's taste).

No shimmer, though. Not a big deal to most, but for me, the difference is like 2D and 3D.
 

SnowManSnow

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So what percentage of the MH heat would a T5 fixture cut out? Half? 3/4? just a little? I have my home never any hotter than 77, so with a 55g tank as a sump I may never need another fan or chiller :)
 
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Anonymous

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SnowManSnow":2e6t5x6v said:
So what percentage of the MH heat would a T5 fixture cut out? Half? 3/4? just a little? I have my home never any hotter than 77, so with a 55g tank as a sump I may never need another fan or chiller :)
Honestly I'm really not convinced MH bulbs make that much more heat. Again it depends what you're going from/to... what's going to heat your tank more a single point source that's a couple hundred degrees (few hundred?)? or a bank of bulbs 100+ degrees each that spans the entire tank?? (t5s do get fairly hot)
 

SlipperMan

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Tek is like....the lower end of the higher end fixtures (if you follow me). Only knock I've heard on their fixtures is that they don't have active cooling.
 

SnowManSnow

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I would diy it, but i dont want a hood on the tank. I'm going to hang something from a bracket I'm going to connect the the back of the tank that will go up and over the top. Goin for a real clean look.
 

SnowManSnow

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SlipperMan":2i2fhany said:
Tek is like....the lower end of the higher end fixtures (if you follow me). Only knock I've heard on their fixtures is that they don't have active cooling.

I don't think they include a cover over the lights either.
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SlipperMan

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You can buy a cover for the Tek. I lost my book but I think they were like $20 or something.

At least you could, it's an older book.
 

Concrete

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I use a 6 bulb Powermodule on my 120g, At first I thought it would not be enough light. Boy was I wrong, I have an SPS dominant tank & they have
growth & color that I could only dream about with my old MH setup.

When I first installed it, The light was about 4" above the water. I had to move it up to around 10" because the SPS up top were bleaching, even with it being raised I still had to move some lower light SPS to the sandbed.

*The Fans are absolutely silent, I have to stick my finger in to make sure they are on.

*My Chiller does not run AT ALL!! My elec bill is $50-70 cheaper than last year.

*ATI uses spec ballast & does NOT OD the bulbs, Spectrum shift/Intensity loss is not as big an issue & bulbs will last alot longer.

Spend the extra $$ and buy the PM, You won't regret it.
 

SnowManSnow

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Another problem with buying the PMod is actually FINDING one. www.reefgeek.com is about the only place I can find one, and the wait is 8 weeks. Even at that I find on the "other" forum that some people have been on the list a lot longer than that.

The extra $$ is pretty substantial too. We're talking double the cost.

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kgross

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So far the only good T5 fixture I have used is the TEK and I think it is great. I haven't not personally used the PM or any of the other high end fixtures. The passive cooling does not seem to be a problem with me. I have a 4x54 over a 75, the top of the fixture gets pretty warm, but I don't use it a a shelf, so it is not an issue, there is very little heat that goes into the tank. The no cover issue is good and bad. it is bad because I have to clean the reflectors/bulbs more often, but I get more light into the tank. I'm not sure if I could justify getting a better fixture than the tek to be honest.

Kim
 

SnowManSnow

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Does your TEK light overdrive the lamps? From what I understand one of the big selling points of the PM is that it does NOT OD the lamps.

All that being said the word on the street is that it produces 25% more PAR at 24" than an equally lamped TEK. Its supposed to be a combination of ballasts and better reflectors.

The TEKs are nice, and the price is certainly MUCH better, but I certainly don't want to have to upgrade to a better fixture 6 months down the road :)

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kgross

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I am very sorry that I tried to answer in this thread. I have on the fixtures talked about, but I guess that does not matter. Now the tek does not overdrive (mine is pulling 219 watts according to my kill a watt, but my voltage is low 99 to 101 volts currently).

I think I have a good idea now on why RDO is pretty dead.

Kim
 

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