Recent content by 35ppt

Phyllodesmium briareum, eats soft corals.

Sponge, just scrape it off if you don't like the look of it. You could also look at reducing silicate if needed and feeding of particulate foods

I would bring up my NO3 and try an iodine dip. Also be sure it's not getting too much flow. Where is the placement in the tank? Can I get a full tank shot?

Well you're certainly not lacking in PO4. Other coral seem normal? How long as it been in the tank? Any changes in light? It was fine and now it's not opening?

Lack of nitrates can absolutely kill corals. The first thing I did when I got into the hobby was bleach out a couple hammers and killed a colony of zoanthids from lack of nutrients. ULN systems can work and be quite stunning but I feel it's safer to keep some detectable levels of nutrients...

79 degrees is fine IMO. I run 77, anything between 75-80 is fine as long as it's stable. I used to run 79, but I like to hit the middle of the range in case of inaccurate measurements and have a little bit more oxygen saturation. What are your phosphates and how long has it been in the tank...

I've had the thought that it seemed like adult Banggais are much more active and "normal" seeming when they have a mate. And I've seen them seem downright depressed when a mate is removed. Not coming out as much/just staring into the corner of the tank etc. Whenever I can provide a mate or...

Torches need to be by themselves for the most part IMO. I know people mix them but I've definitely had torches sting other torches so I don't mix them anymore. Hammers and frogspawn can be mixed together though. You can tell if a coral is stinging another by seeing if its tentacle is stuck to...

I have four of the bluetooth models. They've been working flawless for me for the past couple years or so. The thing about the bluetooth models is that if they loose power they loose track of the time. So dosing starts over from the beginning of the cycle. Which shouldn't really be an issue if...

Thanks!

Testing the water after a few days of soaking will tell you. /As long as you get a zero on the test kit I would call it good. There are trace amounts of copper present in seawater naturally. You don't have to worry about removing every last ion of copper.

My DT is a former QT that had copper in it. Full reef, thriving. As far as I know copper ions can stick to silicone, but it will not absorb them. Nor will copper absorb into glass or plastic. But you do want to wash and rinse it thoroughly. Fill it back up and wait a few days then test the...

Could be lymphocystis. /If so, pristine water and addition of vitamins/beta glucan to their diet should help is subside.

I originally got the Aquatic Life twist in unit, it works. But if you are not constrained by space I recommend getting a unit that uses the standard 10" filters. You have better expandability and end up paying less in the long run when it comes to filter replacements. The nice thing about the...

I remember someone telling me that the fry that they kept in their fuge and just ate what was there grew larger and faster than the ones that were fed BBS. Which I suppose I could buy being that pods are a much better food source.