Recent content by Amphiprionocellaris

First the 75: bought used a few years ago, but I have made substantial changes since then (equipment as it stands now below). Also, a FTS allowing you to see the "display" refugium on top (and the mess around the tank!). Now, some close-ups (a little dated, but they have not changed much...

Yes and no. You are allowing more nitrogen to remain as ammonia/-ium and nitrite. However, in most cases these chemicals are limiting reactants in the whole cycle. That is, any ammonia/-ium and nitrite produced will be used up by bacteria (and other things) before it can cause harm to livestock...

What is the difference between rust and corrosion? The only distinctions I know are between oxidation and reduction (the pure chemistry way of looking at it). Is it the distinction between forming an oxide and forming some other non-metal? Or is it something else entirely?

I would normally go for VHOs, but the "tall" dimensions of your tank make me also go for T-5s in this case. I have 440 W VHO over my 75 (same height: 21") with excellent results with all corals and clams, but you might have a hard time squeezing in that much wattage in the smaller hood. And you...

I have some limited experience with them. IMO/E, there is really not much difference between the different big brands. More difference is made by how you use it than by what you use. I don't see any problem with using Hamilton. It's definitely not, IME, a situation where you will get it and want...

It all depends what other metals you have in the system. For instance, zinc will oxidize (rust) in the presence of gold or silver, but it will reduce (cause another metal to rust) in the presence of something like sodium metal (sodium in saltwater is already an ion and will not be oxidized by...

The problem comes mainly with very heavily stocked tanks. In these situations, the bio-balls are extremely effective, but the anaerobic denitrification is still very slow. In cases such as these, the bio-balls perform their job too well, because they reduce ammonia/-ium to nitrate faster than...

One of the most important things is the reaction test: Place your hand between the clam and the light. If the clam reacts to the sudden shade by closing up, it's at least reasonably healthy. If the clam responds very slowly or not at all, leave it. Clams have a type of "spring" that forces them...

I'll answer your last question first. There is not really such a thing as an inherently "bad" algae. Any algae can become a problem if they start overgrowing livestock or - in very extreme cases - cause eutrophication (bacteria use up all the oxygen in the water; I've only known one or two cases...

I'm just a freshman chem major, but I can definitely say "that doesn't ring true." At normal pH, alkalinity, and temperature, calcium carbonate will precipitate out at less then 600 ppm (usually much less, depending on stuff like water flow). Adding stuff like nitric and carbonic acid will allow...

Hmm...calcium is already at supersaturation in saltwater (calcium carbonate is totally soluble, so the only thing keeping the reefs together is the fact that no more CaCO3 can dissolve), and the precipitation level (all other things normal) is about 520 ppm (give or take, depending on pH and...

When getting live rock, check with your LFS to see if they have some spare "rubble." My LFS sells reef rubble that they collect over time from live rock shipments and coral losses. Rubble is not only a great size for a nano, but you can often get it a lot cheaper, too! Also, if you're...