Recent content by cal91666

If I had read back into the earlier posts I would have seen what kind of ballasts you had. :oops: sorry. Yes each bulb will have its own ballast & capacitor so you have 2. If you do open up the case look for signs of high heat on any of the components, this will be dark to black places on...

8O WOW. Thats a lot on 1 circuit. What kind of ballast do you have?? Check for heat at the cord where it plugs into wall outlet not ballast ........ ballast will get hot normally.

Ballast could be a problem yes. Probably not or your lights wouldn't work. The capacitor is a seperate component with the ballast. Yes each breaker is a circuit. Bathroom may be on same circuit as the receptical your using.

A wiring problem is definetly a possibility. Try a couple of things first. You were getting flicker and GFCI faults when your MH lights come on after being off for a period of time but you were unable to recreate problem when you cycled lights on/off in a short period of time. MH ballasts...

Just a quick check .................... if your MH's have been on a while feel the cord where it is connected to your outlet. If its hot your drawing a lot of amps for the circuit.

There are some very good suggestions listed in this thread but lets look at a couple of things one step at a time. Do you have a fuse box or a breaker box?? If it is a fuse box find the circuit your using and make sure the proper size fuse (15amp, 20amp,...etc) is being used.

drewread what was the outcome of this?? please post and share. thanks

Were you not going to put any kind of substrate in the 75? If you were then you still have a height difference. Height of tank and depth of substrate are only factors in lighting as you well know. Your inhabitants play a major factor in your lighting. And as King Jason said, tank cost is a...

I paid $220 for my 90 RR All-Glass last month. I was also looking at a 75 but after finding out the only difference is height I went with the 90. Same cabinet and canopy fits the 75 as the 90, for All-Glass that is. After doing much research I've found that the biggest difference will be the...

Your baffles should not be so high as to cause a "waterfall" over them. My suggestion would be this: 1st baffle water goes under, remember bubbles will rise, 2nd baffle water goes over, but isn't so high as to cause a "waterfall", 3rd baffle water goes under, again giving bubbles a second...

You probably just found your problem. The micro bubbles will cavitate a pump. Try to adjust your skimmer so that it introduces as few bubbles as possible into the sump and you might want to also try a sponge between the baffles to help control some of the bubbles getting into the inlet of the...

Are you getting many/any bubbles from say a skimmer return or anything in the sump that might make its way to the inlet?

I work with hydraulics all day everyday and the same principal should apply here. I think I would start by removing the valve between the sump and pump and see what happens. Unless I'm missing something that is beyond my training you problem is going to be on the suction side and the valve is...

IMHO looking at your pictures if I'm seeing them correctly I'm seeing a partition in the sump which is very close to the inlet bulkhead fitting.... possible restriction. Valve between sump and pump is a possible restriction and also check the orings in the unions for leaks allowing air to be...

Cavitation of a pump is generally caused by air being introduced on the suction side or a restriction on the suction side.