White 50w garden LED. Same I used before for chaeto. Those frags are tiny, I hardly think they might be responsible. Lights were off for 3 days before that...
Let me share with you a very interesting observation I’ve made... and intriguing...
My chaeto was not doing well because of low nutrient conditions... So I just decided to remove it and turn off my fuge nocturnal lights.
My nocturnal ph drop reappeared.
Then I just decided to put some...
Before T8. I wish to do a newer map... I also lowered my lights a little after that and reduced whites on peak.
Please don’t mind the mess my scape was at that moment...
Recently I’ve put an actinic T8 just to cover shadows.
I have the apex par meter. PAR on the SPS rock gets between 300-350 max. Have been keeping SPS for a while there (2 years), it does not look so because I did a radical clean up to rescape 3 months ago when I moved. After the rescape I kept...
I´m on the other end... Just dosing nitrates to balance that a little.
Some time ago I did a review on articles about the C: N: P ratios that you may find usefull (not many people gave too much attention, but there it goes):
Review on Redfield´s ratio
Exactly... I agree they color up in extreme par... but my point is: are we sure they are healthier? Or maybe what we are assuming as a health parameter could be mistaken?
Because scientific evidence is pointing in other directions...
I´m sure this discussion comes and goes with time, but I thing it could be reactivated...
How much PAR is it ideal to keep most SPS under healthy conditions? How much is too much? Aren´t we blasting our corals in exchange for colors?
Vincent Chalias long ago has presented on ReefStock and...
There goes some pictures and videos of my tank that I call "Pedras Secas" - my favorite dive site.
Specifications: 2 year-old tank (very crouded before, now my efforts are to make it clean).
Size: 40 x 24 x 18 in
60 gal
Lights: 2 AI Primes HD + 1 Supplementary actinic T8
Circulation: Glamorca...