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Hello,
I bought a 125 gallon tank from craigslist and I've been looking to start a saltwater tank for some time. I have a "Reef Ready" tank, stand that came with it because there were specific holes cut for pipes to be plumbed underneath to a sump with 3 sections (It was def a DYI sump) and a Mag 9 return pump.
I have been doing a lot of research and am not sure how I'll be setting up my tank because I see some fish eat corals and I definitely want corals. I still need lights and a protein skimmer and I'll get sand and rock too.
 

reefiness

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welcome to the great money sink that will soon fill all your current drug addictions.

from the sounds of it you want to set up a reef tank, but not all reef tanks are the same, you should look into some different tanks and try to decide if you want to go with a full mix, stick with more soft corals, or stick with more hard corals. These choices will also help decide what lights you will need or how great you filtration needs to be.
 
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welcome to the great money sink that will soon fill all your current drug addictions.

.


HAHAHA Thats one thing I didnt research! Skimmers all seem to be basically acrylic tubes with 2 or 3 different ways to generate the bubbles required for nutrient export so I'll be buying used. Salt and sand are on their way from Amazon (even though part of me feels like it would be easier to pull my pickup to Jones beach LOL) and rock work I've been googling "Aqua Scaping" and seeing millions of different tactics.
 

reefiness

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HAHAHA Thats one thing I didnt research! Skimmers all seem to be basically acrylic tubes with 2 or 3 different ways to generate the bubbles required for nutrient export so I'll be buying used. Salt and sand are on their way from Amazon (even though part of me feels like it would be easier to pull my pickup to Jones beach LOL) and rock work I've been googling "Aqua Scaping" and seeing millions of different tactics.

I just speak the truth. haha, aint no one going to filter me.

About the skimmers, yes they are just acrylic tubes, some built better than others. One thing you need to be careful about with buying used is the age of the pump. A lot of the cost of the skimmer is from the included pump, and buying a replacement (if you buy a used with a bad pump), will cost you well over $100.

Be careful with amazon prices, they aren't the best on a lot of these products from what ive seen. For example, both the sand and salt you just purchased... haha. Check out petsolutions.com. recently purchased salt and sand from there at about a $10 savings per item (200gal salt mix, and 40lb sand) compared with with amazon.

Also about rock work, im not sure what everyones take is on it now, but if i started over, I think I would go with dry rock. Ends up costing way less because dry weight is way lighter than a super dense waterlogged piece of live rock, plus the price per pound is generally cheaper as well. Yes you will need to supplement the start with some bacteria, pods, and other stuff, and the start up i can see being much slower, but having a tank for 10 years and having my fare share of evil hitchhikers come out of my live rock in the beginning, it may have been nice to save the headache and the money. but thats just my $0.02.
 

Lenny718

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Welcome to MR and the expensive but rewarding saltwater hobby! Like others said keep reading and researching, many people have made mistakes in the beginning and you can avoide them buy learning from them. Also I'm a big fan of doing it right the first time, don't cut corners on equipment, what may look like a deal really isn't if you have to buy the same item again when it breaks ;)
 

Pets Aquatic

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make sure you plan what you want correctly.

What is your short term goals?

what are your long term goals?

Remember slow is key!!!


you cant rush this hobby but you can aide it.


make sure you plan the build around your long term goals but keep your mind on your short term goals at first.


this will guarantee you that your tank will be modular and able to handle being fish only, reef, sps dominant reef, a field of zoas, or a heavily stocked reef and fish.


hope this helped some. If you need any advice on equipment just keep me posted.
 

SantaMonica

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One of the key things that takes time is Periphyton:

What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.

That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.

There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.

What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in illuminated areas have.

Reef studies have shown that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.

This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.

But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.

However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately, due only to the re-arranging of the rocks.

Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get by just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before: 1 to 2 years. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.
 

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