Please help my set-up is 10 months old it consists of 30 lbs of live rock, protirn skimmer, two power heads, biowheel filter, my aquarium is 55 gallons, 4 clown fish, one chromis damsel, 2 coral catfish, one scooter blennie and one algae eater, 30 hermit crabs, 5 astrea snails, 5 turbo snails. i am having a problem with hair algae every since i got new compact lights 220 watts. i am also having a problem with very very high nitrate levels as high as 50 units. i have changed the water about 30%. i added some Waste Control and Cycle and i added some Biozyme. but after 4 days the nitrite levels are still high. ph is 8.2, ammonia is 0, phosphate level are 0, and water temp is 78 degrees, i chaged the water twice this week. please help.
High nitrate level
- Thread starter bmccullough
- Start date
Please help my set-up is 10 months old it consists of 30 lbs of live rock, protirn skimmer, two power heads, biowheel filter, my aquarium is 55 gallons, 4 clown fish, one chromis damsel, 2 coral catfish, one scooter blennie and one algae eater, 30 hermit crabs, 5 astrea snails, 5 turbo snails. i am having a problem with hair algae every since i got new compact lights 220 watts. i am also having a problem with very very high nitrate levels as high as 50 units. i have changed the water about 30%. i added some Waste Control and Cycle and i added some Biozyme. but after 4 days the nitrite levels are still high. ph is 8.2, ammonia is 0, phosphate level are 0, and water temp is 78 degrees, i chaged the water twice this week. please help.The Biozyme will only do what your nitrifying bacteria are already doing--oxidizing ammonia. That is a waste of money, once your tank is cycled and you have these cultures established. The end result of the nitrification cycle will always be nitrates.
The best way to make a significant dent in the nitrates is to begin doing daily water changes of 50% or better. Also, consider adding live rock to equal 1-2lbs/gallon, and make it very good quality live rock. And, I will suggest considering adding a refugium OR deep sand bed (DSB) directly to the tank. Refugia methodology makes use of the nutrient exporting capabilities of macroalgae, and when used in conjunction with a DSB it can really reduce available nutrients (you would have to directly export nutrients from the refugium via harvest of macroalgae).
As for the hair algae, consider something like a tuxedo urchin for direct, immediate consumption.
The best way to make a significant dent in the nitrates is to begin doing daily water changes of 50% or better. Also, consider adding live rock to equal 1-2lbs/gallon, and make it very good quality live rock. And, I will suggest considering adding a refugium OR deep sand bed (DSB) directly to the tank. Refugia methodology makes use of the nutrient exporting capabilities of macroalgae, and when used in conjunction with a DSB it can really reduce available nutrients (you would have to directly export nutrients from the refugium via harvest of macroalgae).
As for the hair algae, consider something like a tuxedo urchin for direct, immediate consumption.
i have live rock and i purchase some macroalgae last week some grape calupra (bad spelling sorry). my tank had already cylcled months ago. but i added 110 watts of power compacts, now i have 220 watts and new hair algae everywhere it is even taken over the new macroalgae. i will do another water change today. thanks for responding
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
