My new tank

[Cor@lr33f]

Hi all,

I was just wondering... (since I'm new to reefkeeping)

i set up my tank nearly four weeks ago.
Since a week ago, the brown algae bloom started.
First just barely visible, but now (since 2days) everywhere in thick crusts

I know this is quite normal. But people said to me that such algae bloom just last only for a day or two, at most three.
Here's the question : Is this cause i put in just tapwater for my evaporation? Or am I getting off to soon??

BTW: Nitrite : 0 mg/l
Nitrate : < 12.5 mg/l
Ammonia : 0 mg/l
Ph : 8.1
Salinity : 1.023

Thanks in advance,
Cor@lr33f

 

[Cabreradavid]

One thing you definitely should do is stop using tap water. It most likely contains, among other things, phosphates, nitrates, and silicates which algae love. You should use RO/DI water. You can either buy distilled water at the store (which can be a chore and you want to make sure it really is distilled) or purchase a RO/DI unit. I have a Typhoon II unit from Air water and Ice (http://www.airwaterice.com) that works great. I also bought a TDS meter to monitor water quality from the unit.

DMC

 

[Len]

I agree with David. A RO/DI is really essential in most places. Very few areas have municipal water good enough for tank usage.

However, the coral bloom will last far longer then a few days as someone previously suggested to you. Assuming no new nutrients are being imported (and they likely are in tapwater), the algae can stay around for weeks to months before it subsides. The important thing is to be very patient with reef tanks. They generally won't look their best until after the first year; It's definitely a hobby for the commited

 

[Anonymous]

i also agree. city water isn't even suitable for freshwater planted aquariums. heck, it's barely suitable to drink in some areas

it was expensive ($200) but I bought a good RO unit and it was completely worth it.

 

[Cor@lr33f]

Thanks Guy's

I will go and get me a test kit for Phospates.

So I can check those levels.

The watercompany said my phospate/silicate levels should be lower then 20ppm Is this to high?

if not, I will have to go and get me a RO unit

Just wont spend a few bucks to something I MIGHT not need, so I can invest those bucks in something more usefull for my setup. Right?

Will hold you updated
Cor@lr33f

 

[Cor@lr33f]

*** UPDATE ***

My Phosphate level : 0.5 ppm :roll:

Is this ok ?? :?:

Greetings

Cor@lr33f

 

[Bone'Collector]

Hey Coral... My tank just finished the diatom bloom stage a few days ago... I filled my tank with dechlorinated tap water for the initial fill and I had a diatom issue like crazy... My RO/DI unit finally came on monday and I didnt a 20% water change and have topped up with it since monday of this week and my diatoms are completely gone... If you want the bloom to go away quicker, i would say stick with ro/di! Good luck!

 

[Cor@lr33f]

hi again,
sorry for my annoying questions but here is one more.

Why does the brown algae doesn't appear on the places where the lights (=3x150W MH 6500K -2nd hand-) doesn't reach. e.g. on hangover off the LR and the backside. They are completely Brown Algae free!!!!

I run those MH 12 hours and only since a day or four. That's the time my ALgae bloom just went crazy.
is this pure luck :? Or am I overlighting or can't the bulbs been trusted or ... or just going crazy

Thanks in advance,
Cor@lr33f

P.S. What do you think of the Aquarium Systems Hang On skimmer rated for 100 gallon tank on my 375 LITER (= just no 100 gallon) tank. A little on the tight side, or just suited for the job?

 

[Cabreradavid]

I still suggest you use RO/DI water. Here are two good reasons not to use tap water. First, a rule I try to follow is to not add anything to my tank I can't test for. Since tap water can contain all sorts of contaminants, it is best to use water you know does not contain any (i.e. RO/DI water). It's not just phosphates and nitrates, but also potentially silicates, metals etc. Second, even if tap water is low in phosphates, you will be providing a continual source of nutirents to the tank every time you do a water change or water top off. This combined with the nutrients in the tank (from biological processes and feeding) can result in undesirable algal growth. I think the RO/DI unit is one of the most important things you can buy.
With respect to your last post I am not sure I understand the question. If you are asking why you have no brown algal growth in the shaded parts of the tanks, that is simply because there is not enough light in these areas to support algal growth. The algal bloom is normal and can last a fair amount of time as Len indicated. In fact, your tank will go through several different stages of algal growth before it becomes mature.

 

[Cor@lr33f]

Hi all,

Just bought my a RO unit 3stages (so DI is ommitted)

I'm eager to 'throw' that water in my tank when there's enough available.

Thanks for the replies guys

Cor@lr33f

 

[Cor@lr33f]

Oeps, Double post

 

[Cor@lr33f]

*** Update ***


My Ro unit is now working, but i get some strange results.

There's little to no waste!!!!!

So I tested the osmose water and did get the following results:

Nitrite : 0ppm
nitrate : 0ppm
Phospate : 0.05ppm

So then I tested my tapwater :

Nitrite : 0 ppm
Nitrate : 2-3ppm
Phosphate : 0.5 ppm

So then, as eager as I am, I tested my seawater once again :

Nitrite : 0ppm
Nitrate : almost 12 ppm
phosphate : 0.5 ppm

I must ommit that for nitrates I used a new testkit. and that my aquarium as the following livestock in it :

Linckia Laevigata
4 shrimps
16 turbo snails
8 hermit crabs
- so a basic cleanup crew

Now for the questions : Is it normal to have such little waste water???
( Eg. on 8 liters osmose i get only 0.2l waste) At first i thought the pipe colors were changed in the factory, but when i checked the diagram it all looks fine
It takes for the 8 liters osmose a little over 1.5 hour ( it's an Aquariopure 50) (= 189l/day at max)

I'm sorry , but I'm getting a little confused right now

Many thanks in advance