change
- Thread starter sharonkookie
- Start date
You'd essentially have to empty your 55g of all its content, give it a good clean. Some people simply use hot water. If you have mineral build up on the tank, plain white vinegar will take it off pretty easily. Some people use hydrogen peroxide to disinfect and some even use pure lye (sodium hydroxide), but it's a lot more dangerous to handle. Never use detergent/soap, however.
After that, you can start setting up the reef. A 55 gallon can keep a wide varienty of reef-safe fish. Honestly, there is too many to list, so it's a better idea for you to ask us about any fish you're interested in and we can tell you if it's okay for your tank.
What types of corals you can keep is largely dependant on your equipment, especially lighting. The three pieces of equipment I'd never skimp on is good lighting, a good protein skimmer, and a RO/DI filter for your freshwater (used to top-off the tank or mix saltwater with). For a 55 gallon, I'd go with either 2 x 150-250 watt metal halides with actinic fluroescent supplementation, 4 x 65-96 watt PowerCompact fluorescents, or T-5 lighting. For the sake of simplicity, I'd use a hang-on back protein skimmer such as the AquaC Remora Pro. RO/DI (stands for Reverse Osmosis/Deionization) units are usually about the same in quality, so as long as you have a RO with TFC membrane, you're in good shape.
On top of these, youll need adequete cirulation and a heater. A couple of powerheads will do just fine, and you can put them on a wavemaker if you so choose (they help alternate the flow).
If you'd like to know the details about setting up the tank, just ask
There's a good amount of info online and in books that details how to set up a reef tank.Here's a good set of books we recommend for beginners. Most of them have very good, insightful tutorials on how to set up a reef tank step by step.
http://www.reefs.org/library/reading/be ... inner.html
This is a good read if you haven't seen it yet:
http://www.reefs.org/library/newbieguide.htm
Let us know if you've got any questions
Welcome to this terribly addicting and fascinating hobby!Lots of fish are good with clowns. Some recommendations include royal grammas, watchman gobies, dwarf angels (all kinds), blennies, firefish, anthias, reef-safe wrasses (sixline, flasher, fairy), hawkfish, hogfish, and tangs (although your tank is too small to keep a mature tang). The common percula and false percula clowns are your best bet for docile clownfish, and especially if they're captive-bred.
I had a 29g tank which was a fresh to sw conversion. We gave away all the FW fish to our kids' schools (who promised to take care of them). We got 2 clowns (Ocellaris), 1 yellow-tailed blue damsel (I know they can get, umm, feisty, but we lucked out with this one), a firefish (eventually died, I assume old age, as water chemistry was stable). They all got along well. This was a fish only w/ live rock (FOwLR if you want acronyms).
I'd be careful with the wrasses, as some can grow to be rather large even in a 55g tank.
The dottybacks (pseudochromis?) are also good. I think for the pseudochromis, it's one a tank.
Get a good book (see the library for recommendations) too.
I'd be careful with the wrasses, as some can grow to be rather large even in a 55g tank.
The dottybacks (pseudochromis?) are also good. I think for the pseudochromis, it's one a tank.
Get a good book (see the library for recommendations) too.
Airstones aren't needed with good circulation. A few good powerheads agitating the surface of the water is more then sufficent for oxygenation. A good protein skimmer will also saturate the water with as much oxygen as it can hold anyhow. Also, a problem with airstones is that the bursting bubbles will leave salt spray all over the top of your tank.
Airstones will give you salt creep from h#@$^. (No, salt creep is not the guy (gal) you dated who ate pizza with anchovies 8) ). It's a phenomenon where salt builds up on the edges of your tank, on your lights, on your electrical cords, etc.
You need some powerheads for water circulation. Water flow & movement is very important in salt tanks. Point one of the PH's slightly upwards to get rippling of the water. This gives you air exchange, and you don't get salt creep.
For a 55g, two PH's should be sufficient, 3 will be fine. Point them diagonally at each other, and slightly up.
For a fairly inexpensive 'new to SW' book, I'd recommend John Tullock's "Your First Saltwater Aquarium" (under $10). It's expensive on a $/page basis, but it's a pretty good beginner intro.
You need some powerheads for water circulation. Water flow & movement is very important in salt tanks. Point one of the PH's slightly upwards to get rippling of the water. This gives you air exchange, and you don't get salt creep.
For a 55g, two PH's should be sufficient, 3 will be fine. Point them diagonally at each other, and slightly up.
For a fairly inexpensive 'new to SW' book, I'd recommend John Tullock's "Your First Saltwater Aquarium" (under $10). It's expensive on a $/page basis, but it's a pretty good beginner intro.
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
