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jle2003

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I am a new member to the forum. I am planning to setup a 90 gal acrylic tank (48x18x24) with a sump underneath the tank. I have got the sump with the size 24x9x16 and Rio 2500 Powerhead UL, and 2 X 65 watt Power Compact retrofit kit systems with 50/50 bulbs. I have also drilled a 1 1/2" hold on the bottom of rear center overflow and 2 return points with 1" to each side of the tank. I would like to ask a few questions before buying LR and sand:

1. What kind of cured or uncured Fiji rock should I buy? If uncured rock, how long will it take to complete the water cycle? During the water cycling, can I add damsel into the tank?
2. Should I get all live sand for my tank?
3. With the Rio 2500 powerhead and 2 1" return holes, do I have enough water returning back into the tank?
4. During the water cycyling, do I need to leave the light on all the time? If not, how many hours?
5. If I buy the salt water from LFS, do I have to remeasure the sality, NO2, NO3, etc.

Thank you in advance
 

tazdevil

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jle: First, http://www.reefs.org/banners/rdo_welcome.gif
Now to answer as best I can


1: I wouldn't spend extra on "cured" rock, as when it reaches your home, unless it is packeged in water (not damp newspapers), you'll be recuring it anyway. Usually takes up to 3 months for things to "settle", however, over your first year, several nasty algae outbreaks also occur-new tank problem.

2: No, I would only add about 1/3rd of it live, it will seed the "dead" sand.

3: I hate RIO's. Not sure on your return's, but you can always add a valve on return to control return water.

4: No. You really don't need it on at all, and turning it on may "encourage" nasty algae outbreaks.

5: Yes. Always double check it against what your water is. Most of the time, you'll only need to add top-off water due to evaporation (remember-wter evaporates, salt does not, so as the water level goes down your salinity will increase; never add salt with top-off water unless you need to raise your salinity in tank).


HTH.
 

jle2003

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Thank you HTH for the quick response!

I actually come up with a few more questions. After I get the LR and live sands.

1. Which ones should I add to the tank before starting the cycle water?
2. How many inches of sand should be right for 90 gal tank?
3. Do I need bioballs for the sump, if I have LF in the tank?

Please help!
 

tazdevil

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1: Both, they both could then be seeded at the same time.

2: For a DSB, you need at least 4 inches, although there is and always has been MUCH debate about that.

3: No. They will not allow your LR/LS to do its job, and may cause you headaches in the future.


On a side not, HTH means "Hope this Helps". You'll see FWIW too, which is "for what it's worth". There's more, I forgot the rest, guess I'm getting to old.
 

jle2003

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Thank you for the advises!

Does anyone know how many pounds of DSB for 4 inches of sand in a 90 gal tank?

With a 2 set of 2 X 65 watt Power Compact retrofit kit system (50/50 bulbs), does it generate alot of heat for a 90 gal tank?
 

taikonaut

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There is a sandbed calculator somewhere... but my guess is that it is about 200 lb.

the PC is not going to generate a lot of heat on a 90, maybe a few degrees. With evaporative cooling, you maybe able to keep the tank a little bit above the amb. temp.
 

jle2003

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I have heard that if I use the LR and LS for the new tank, I do not need to put Bioballs into sump. Is it correct? If so, what should I put in the two compartments sump?

Thank a much.
 

tenshi

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Protein skimmer, heaters, pumps, all the stuff that you don't want in your tank. You could also put your DSB in your sump instead of your tank in case your DSB decides to go bad on you, you would easily be able to change it out. If you looking to put your DSB in your tank, a 4" DSB would need a total of 140lbs of sand.
 

jle2003

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The bulkhead of the return line from the sump is leaking. Can you someone tell me what kind of glue to use or anyway to fix it. Note, I could not replace the bulkhead becasue it has already attached to the PVC pipes. thanks
 

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