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Avi1

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I've just set up a 120 gallon tank that I intend to stock with fish and some inverts....maybe even some Mushroom Coral, which will be stocked with live rock. I have a sump that is now connected to a water pump that does 1,300 gph. I'd like to get a powerhead to drive some additional flow in the tank and I wonder if anyone can make any suggestions as to what kind of additional flow (gph; how many powerheads, etc.) would be good for the tank....THANKS.
 

ChrisRD

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If money is not a big concern a Tunze Stream is a great option. Probably the most (and best) flow you can get from a single powerhead. Definitely one of the simplest and most energy efficient solutions...

For a much cheaper solution a few MaxiJet 1200s on a wavemaker will work. A bit unsightly and several powerheads to maintain, but it works.

(Of course there are other options beside powerheads like closed-loops, surge devices, etc.)
 

Avi1

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What do you think about something like a Quiet One that pumps about 800 gph that I would put behind the live rock? That's what the guy in the local fish store is recommending...It'd stay on with suction cups and he says it would add to the two intake's which are on the left and right sides of the tank. That seems like an easy solution.
 

ChrisRD

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That will work, but one caution - don't rely on those suction cups - especially if you're going to have a sandbed. Eventually the suction cups will fail and the pump will end up in the sand. You can figure out the rest from there...;)

Make sure it's mounted securely and it's somewhere you can get to it later for maintenance. It won't move anywhere near the water that the Tunze will, but it will help for sure.

HTH
 

Avi1

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One more question....When you say that it won't move anywhere as much water as the Tunze will...How much is good? I have a Rio17HF on the side of the tank temprarily right now and it does about 1050 gph and it's really pushing a lot of water...I thought it must be too much.
 

ChrisRD

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I wouldn't worry about having too much flow. It's flow velocities you want to watch out for. Unfortunately most powerheads produce a narrow, high velocity stream that you don't want to aim directly at corals (or your sand ;) ). It can irritate or damage them and blow your sandbed all over the tank.

Sometimes it's necessary to aim this flow at your rockwork or one of the tank sides to deflect/diffuse this effect. I say, as long as you can manage the velocities, the more flow the better.

Something like a Tunze Stream puts out a very wide, much slower flow pattern, so it can move more water without damaging corals or ripping up your sandbed.
 

ChrisRD

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BTW, I think Rio is out with a pump that is something like the Tunze Streams (wide, high volume, slow flow pattern). I think the model is called "Seio"...
 

Avi1

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First let me THANK you for the advice....one more question though....In addition to the 1300 gph that the pump driving the sump has, HOW MANY gph should any additional source of current have?
 

ChrisRD

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It's tough to give a particular number. I tend to look and make sure all the corals are getting good flow (I check to see that polyps are blowing in the current) and there are no dead spots where stuff is collecting.

Also, consider what you're going to keep in the tank. Many of the larger polyp stony corals and tridacna clams seem to do better with gentle flow. Some of the small polyp stony corals seem to thrive in much stronger, chaotic currents.

People often use tank turnover as a rough rule-of-thumb, but I'm not sure how useful that is (sorta like watts-per-gallon with lighting...). For a reef you'll commonly hear something like get 5X - 10X of the tank volume through the sump per hour and maybe another 10X in the main tank. So in your case (120 gallon tank) 600 - 1200 GPH through the sump and maybe another 1200 GPH in the main tank.

Again, I don't think these guidelines are all that useful, but I guess it gives you a starting point. My advice is, don't worry too much about the numbers - just make sure you've got plenty of circulation everywhere - no dead spots. IMO it's something you can just check visually...

HTH
 

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