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mels95yj

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Ok, I've decided that I'm needing to reduce my phosphates. I haven't tested for it, but I've got all the tell-tale signs. I've searched and found pics of the setup, but all of them have the reactor in their sump/refugium. I don't have either one of those, so mine will hang on the back of the main tank. I emailed 2 Little Fishies and they suggested getting a "J" tube to run over the tank instead of kinking a hose. Only tube I've found is the "U" overflow kind.

Does anybody have one of these reactors on their main tank that could take some pics of how it's setup. I'm mainly concerned about how it's routed in the intake and return lines. TIA

Mel
 

danmhippo

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Have you tried the kalkwasser drips yet? Kalkwasser can effectively reduce the phosphate level of your tank with added benefit of supplementing your tank with calcium.

How would you know if you need phosphate remover if you don't know what your current level of phosphate is in your tank? Phosphate testing kit is a drop in te bucket compares to the chemical filter media and reactors. There are numerous possibilities to unwanted algae growth, phosphate is just one of the possible culprit.
 

mels95yj

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I don't have a high calcium demand in my tank. My calcium stays around 550 without dosing anything, even though I do have B-Ionic 2 part.

From what I've researched on the forums, not having a lot of coralline algae is a symptom of high phosphates. I have to scrape the glass every day to rid the green algae which is another symptom. From what I've read, the phosphate test kits are not a tell-tale sign. If you've got algae in your tank that is using the phosphate faster than it accumalates, then the test kit might read lower than what it really is.

I've got an Anthias that requires several small feedings a day, so I'm having to feed more than I'd like to. I use frozen food, but I usually soak the food in tank water, then pour it out and use fresh tank water. I read that's one way to lower the phosphates before putting the food into the tank.

Basically, I just need to know how people have their return line back into their tank.

Mel
 

hillbilly

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Not having coralline is not always a sign of high phosphates. Since you feed heavy, your problem could most likely be resolved with agressive skimming. Phosphate removers should only be used as last ditch resort IMO. They can sometimes do as much harm as good. But, if you are really detemined to use one, Marine Depot sells U-tube returns that can be connected to tubing for about $5.95. Hook the u-tube to a piece of tubing to the ball valve, attach to the unit, the other outlet to a piece of tubing then to a small powehead, put the powerhead in the tank, hang unit on side of tank, adjust flow with the ball valve that comes with the unit, and you're set.
 

mels95yj

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hillbilly":1236v9fh said:
Not having coralline is not always a sign of high phosphates. Since you feed heavy, your problem could most likely be resolved with agressive skimming. Phosphate removers should only be used as last ditch resort IMO. They can sometimes do as much harm as good. But, if you are really detemined to use one, Marine Depot sells U-tube returns that can be connected to tubing for about $5.95.

I'm using an AquaC Remora w/MJ 1200 for my skimmer. It sometimes gets 1/2 full in a week. I also read that low mg levels will not cause coralline, but I tested mine the other day. It's 1620. I did a 20% water change to get that down some. Here's my levels I test for before the water change:

Ca - 560
dKH - 8.96
Mg - 1620

I have to scrape the glass every day from the algae. I don't have any on the sandbed or rocks. Just on the glass.

Mel
 

Tackett

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danmhippo":rn574zof said:
Have you tried the kalkwasser drips yet? Kalkwasser can effectively reduce the phosphate level of your tank with added benefit of supplementing your tank with calcium.



Eh? how is this possible? Not trying to be a troll, I believe you...you are alot more experienced than me, I just want to understand.
 

ChrisRD

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" A less frequently discussed mechanism for phosphate reduction may simply be the precipitation of calcium phosphate, Ca3(PO4)2. The water in many reef tanks will be supersaturated with respect to this material, as the equilibrium saturation concentration in normal seawater is only 0.002 ppm phosphate. As with CaCO3, the precipitation of Ca3(PO4)2in seawater may be limited by kinetic factors more than equilibrium factors, so it is impossible to say how much might precipitate under reef tank conditions (without, of course, somehow determining it experimentally). This precipitation may be especially likely where calcium and high pH additives (like limewater) enter the tank water. The locally high pH converts much of the HPO4-- to PO4---. Combined with the locally high calcium, the locally high PO4--- may push the supersaturation of Ca3(PO4)2 to unstable levels, causing precipitation."

Check this article by Randy Holmes-Farley found here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm
 

danmhippo

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Tackett":lhwqejfg said:
danmhippo":lhwqejfg said:
Have you tried the kalkwasser drips yet? Kalkwasser can effectively reduce the phosphate level of your tank with added benefit of supplementing your tank with calcium.



Eh? how is this possible? Not trying to be a troll, I believe you...you are alot more experienced than me, I just want to understand.

No, I am not anymore knowledgeable than you. We are all on the same learning tree.
 

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