yellowing water

[Chucky]

I'm pretty sure my water is yellowing.
I have 11lbs LR in (what was) a 10 gal tank - maybe 8 gallons at most now?
A small powerhead for circulation, and an aqua clear mini with foam and ammonia chips.

I didn't go with any carbon because I don't want to remove any trace elements that might be needed for my 25 or so soft coral zoo-zanthell-thingys (all of them on one rock).

 

[SnowManSnow]

You will be fine to run carbon for a day or so if youre only concerned about zoos.

Anyway.. if the water gets nasty looking you won't hurt anything to do a 50% change in a system that small. Wait a week or so.. and do another if it doesn't clear up. I assume you're not skimming?

Also make sure your nitrates, nitrites, and so forth are in check.. and there is nothing rotting behind a rock somewhere!

 

[Tackett]

yellowing water can also be caused by macroalgae. If you have a bunch in the system. It can be removed by running some carbon.

 

[Tackett]

the yellow can be removed by carbon, not the macro, should have worded that better.

 

[Anonymous]

>... an aqua clear mini with foam and ammonia chips.

Does ammonia chip (Zeolite) works in saltwater?

 

[Anonymous]

No

 

[danmhippo]

Don't worry about trace elements removed by carbon, whatever that was lost will be replenished by subsequent WC.

I am a macro lover, and I used to run carbon 247. Just make sure you pick carbon that do not leach PO4.

 

[Anonymous]

Don't worry about trace elements removed by carbon, whatever that was lost will be replenished by subsequent WC.

I am a macro lover, and I used to run carbon 247. Just make sure you pick carbon that do not leach PO4.

That's a very good point! Cheap carbon will leach PO4 and can cause a nasty algae outbreak!

 

[Tackett]

I thought all carbon released PO4, is this wrong?

 

[danmhippo]

Most of the economical brand of activated carbon on the market are made from coconut shell. The manufacturing process of these types of activated carbon require use of phosphoric acid to clean its surface before drying and packaging.

There are other sources of material for activated carbon from coal to wooden bricks. Most of the coconut shell activated carbon release phosphate up to 14.0ppm, but there are other brands of carbon that has far less phosphate content or none at all.

To test out the carbon, just put them in a small cup of distilled water, stir for a minute or two, let it sit and stir again. Test for PO4.

Branded product may not be the best. My LFS sells bulk packed GAC, non-branded, but I tested out to be PO4 free.

 

[Anonymous]

Uuurgh. I've been using Coconut shell activated carbon under the impression that it might be more envionmentally sustainable! Might have to move to the standard stuff next time.

In response to the original question, if you still don't want to use carbon (which I'd also recommend), water changes more regularly are the way forward to help with the problem (though probably not eliminate it).

 

[Oceans Ferevh]

I've heard good reveiws on Marineland Black Diamond Carbon.

 

[Anonymous]

I've heard good reveiws on Marineland Black Diamond Carbon.

That's what I use both in my salt and freshwater planted tanks. Ya don't want the excess P in either type of tank 8O

 

[ChrisRD]

Two Little Fishies HydroCarbon 2 is excellent as well.