O.K. I don't want to scare anybody...I'm probably asking this question too soon (I have the Conscientious book and the Aquarist Encyclopedia coming), I also have been reading forums, phamplets, and catalogs. I'm going one step at a time. First, the stand and canapy, a furniture thing; next, pre-drilled 180. I am usually a quick learner but this hobby is intense. Are you asleep yet? Lots of background. Now I like the idea of raising Phyto and macro and micro algae for a reef tank. So, (yes, I really have a question) about filtration...the wet/dry method, mud method, live sand method, as well as, using a sterilizer, sump, etc...O.K I'm going crazy. I would like to use some of these methods togeather; but, I don't want to fight myself in the process. I'm looking for some seasoned advice because this thing cost as much as a used car...I'm talking a recent model!!! I have salt experience from years ago. That is about as useful as being from Mars. HELP ME PLEASE!@#$%
Newbie question
- Thread starter Chubosco
- Start date
Heh, your confusion is understandable. There is a reason there are so many options out there - no two of us can agree on the best way to run a reef. There is no right or wrong way, and ultimately you will have to decide for yourself - but you are starting out the right way by seeking more information.
I can offer a couple things to get you started. I was happy with the mud, I had a very nice reef for a couple years, but in the long term now I'm not so sure. I have gone to a more conventional sand substrate in the sump. Speaking of sumps, I suspect most of us have them, especially in the size class you are looking at. A great place to keep stuff like skimmers (which you probably will want but isn't necessarily mandatory), heaters, and even a lighted refugium (also very desirable but not mandatory).
Wet/drys are pretty much out of date at this point.
HTH, I'm sure others will add a lot more.
I can offer a couple things to get you started. I was happy with the mud, I had a very nice reef for a couple years, but in the long term now I'm not so sure. I have gone to a more conventional sand substrate in the sump. Speaking of sumps, I suspect most of us have them, especially in the size class you are looking at. A great place to keep stuff like skimmers (which you probably will want but isn't necessarily mandatory), heaters, and even a lighted refugium (also very desirable but not mandatory).
Wet/drys are pretty much out of date at this point.
HTH, I'm sure others will add a lot more.
Like Brian said their are many ways that work, just have to decide on what will work for you. I tried the deep sand bead method and it worked well for about 3 years then became a problem. Exactly why I do not know. I am going with bare bottom, lots of flow in the tank and aggressive skimming now.
My advice is to read Fenner's book. It's a good book for beginners and it will set many things straight for you. It's true - you do want a sump, ideally a big sump in a remote location. After you're done with Fenner's read Borneman's book on corals if you want to get into corals (Fenner's is fish only or fish only with live rock). Then start buying stuff for the setup. Until then you're guaranteed to make about 30%-50% useless purchases.
Good luck and welcome!
Mihai
Good luck and welcome!
Mihai
Chubosco":24fypg6i said:
The refugium is not equal to a sump, although many people include a refugium in their sumps: a refugium is a place without predation where algae and pods can grow in large numbers undisturbed. Its ideal location is not in the sump but rather upstream from the display, such that any pods that overflow get into the display without going through the return pump. Thus, the ideal refugium is a large tank somewhere higher than the display tank, draining in the display tank...
M.
Mihai":3vsokfk9 said:
I understand how you feel man. Though I by no means, think I am anywhere close to an "expert aquarist". In fact, I still consider myself a newbie in many respects. Science is one of those subjects where an ego will only hinder you.
Contrary to most misconceptions, refugium is equally fine if you put it under the tank, and pump the water up to the tank. The misconception generally involve pods gets smashed by pumps.
I've tested myself that anything under 1cm will survive the trip thru the pump alright. I used to have SW ghostdhrimps that managed to catch the ride down the 6ft drain to the sump and gets sucked back up to the display, and appeared unharmed. If I could talk to the shrimp and ask him if he is scratched in anyway, I would though.....
I have also tested by scooping up a few (approx. 10-20) pods and throw them into the return pump, and have a net ready to catch them at the main display inlet. They are all fine.
As far as the equipments go, I would arrange your cabinet to fit in a sump for all ugly equipments such as heater, chiller coil...etc. A large refugium to grow macro algae and pods, and space for a stand-alone skimmer. If you are planning to go with calcium demanding corals, make room for calcium reactor or kalkwasser reactor as well. There are better rooms available for a 5Gal jug that would be convenient to store RODI water hooked up to a dosing pump for toping-off evaporations too.
Make sure you partition the cabinet so you have rooms for the testing kits, dry food, monitoring devices, and neatly arranged power strips. Make sure you got enough power to run all equipments, common household breaker is 15Amps, I would suggest you get a qualified electrician to upgrade it to 25-30Amps, and install GFCI outles for the tank's electricals.
Don't forget about lights.......oh boy, more options in that department!
I've tested myself that anything under 1cm will survive the trip thru the pump alright. I used to have SW ghostdhrimps that managed to catch the ride down the 6ft drain to the sump and gets sucked back up to the display, and appeared unharmed. If I could talk to the shrimp and ask him if he is scratched in anyway, I would though.....
I have also tested by scooping up a few (approx. 10-20) pods and throw them into the return pump, and have a net ready to catch them at the main display inlet. They are all fine.
As far as the equipments go, I would arrange your cabinet to fit in a sump for all ugly equipments such as heater, chiller coil...etc. A large refugium to grow macro algae and pods, and space for a stand-alone skimmer. If you are planning to go with calcium demanding corals, make room for calcium reactor or kalkwasser reactor as well. There are better rooms available for a 5Gal jug that would be convenient to store RODI water hooked up to a dosing pump for toping-off evaporations too.
Make sure you partition the cabinet so you have rooms for the testing kits, dry food, monitoring devices, and neatly arranged power strips. Make sure you got enough power to run all equipments, common household breaker is 15Amps, I would suggest you get a qualified electrician to upgrade it to 25-30Amps, and install GFCI outles for the tank's electricals.
Don't forget about lights.......oh boy, more options in that department!
As far as evaporation, your tank may lose up to 4Gal a day of fresh water. You may want to consider installing the RODI near the tank, and tee-off the RODI outlet, one to a reservoir, and another directly to a dosing pump controlled by the level sensor in the sump. This way you can save the space needed for the 5gal Jug.
danmhippo":2e28w0aj said:
Well, maybe pods and other things with hard shells will make it, but I remember that the source of the misconception was started by a test with some soft larvae and 80% of them didn't make it.
I don't know what to say, I don't have strong arguments for my point either. However, if I could I would buy pumps that work with pistons. I really would.
M.
Have you purchased the tank and stand already? You're doing great by researching as much as you are. Most start off by bringing home a bunch of crap from the LFS (Local Fish Store), like me. The one thing that I can highly recogmend is that you buy quality products. You will be saving a lot of money in the long run if you do (trust me). Get the tank that you really want the first time. I bought a 44 gallon hex the first time and ended up buying my current 65 gallon standard five months later. You just spend more money if you don't plan ahead. Consider what critters you want first before you start buying stuff. Keep the end result in mind when planning. I wish I had known this when I started out.
These are some really good suppliers to check out:
http://www.lifereef.com/frame.html
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv
http://www.marinedepot.com/homepage.asp
http://petsolutions.com/category.asp?c=1
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/S ... e=4&N=2004
http://www.hellolights.com/
For plumbing
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/
http://www.modularhose.com/
Reference
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/index.html
http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/zoo/640frameset.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/
http://www.reefkeeping.com/
I have a bazillion more. Name a item your looking for and I'll give you a site for it.
http://www.lifereef.com/frame.html
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv
http://www.marinedepot.com/homepage.asp
http://petsolutions.com/category.asp?c=1
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/S ... e=4&N=2004
http://www.hellolights.com/
For plumbing
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/
http://www.modularhose.com/
Reference
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/index.html
http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/zoo/640frameset.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/
http://www.reefkeeping.com/
I have a bazillion more. Name a item your looking for and I'll give you a site for it.
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