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RobertoVespucci

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Finally decided we could do a saltwater tank. Bad news is the house we decided to buy needs more rehab than we had allotted, so we'll have to buy our equipment over about the next several months before we can start making water.

So, tell me how bad my plan is.

Ultimately we want an aquarium either built into a wall or in cabinets that look like furniture. Hopefully we'll never move again. Without several grand in foundation work I doubt the house could handle more than 300-500, which is in my mind, a gawdawfully big tank. But that's like 6 years down the road.

For now, we want to take some time at the beginning to learn how to keep stuff alive, and what works, doesn't work, etc.

We're not really big on SPS. Some of the plating types and a couple pieces called 'cat's paw' look fairly cool, though. This may change, since some have nice colors and we may learn to appreciate pokey shapes.

LPS is a different matter. Bubbles, frogspawn, hammer, etc are all great. And of course I've got a real thing for [wait for it] flowerpot types. Maybe someone will figure that out in the next few years.

Soft corals are cool, too. Pretty much everything but mushrooms and those polyps that look like fancy colored aiptasia are on the menu.

As for other inverts, clams, featherdusters/fanworms, and anemones would be nice.

Fish wise, generally speakingwe're interested in dudes with unusual behavior. A large angelfish would be sweet, but I'm thinking a bad idea overall? Anyway, the anemone-clown thing, goby-shrimp, hermit crab in a frag, anglerfish, and seahorse dances are things that attract us.

Equipment wise what I have now is stuff that I've gotten nearly for free and am not attached to if I need to chuck it. A 36x20x18 tank (~60g), and a 20T, 2x96watt 34" PCs, some NO lamps, and miscellaneous crap.

I'm in the process of seeing if the library can order the books on the beginners reading list. If not I'll be getting those in a month or so.

Wrt livestock, can you give me a good place to start to get a balanced perspective? And then, of course, besides skimmer, lights, and RO, what 'practice' hardware will I need to acquire to keep them?
 
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Anonymous

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First of all welcome to Reefs.org :D I would say go through the beginners FAQ since you already have an idea what equipment you need. One of the problems I see though is having a sea horse on the list, they are very diffucult to keep and should have a tank by themselves, preferably established since they will eat pods. But since you are wanting to upgrade eventually having a 60 gallon established tank would work out.
 
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Anonymous

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i believe your tank is a standard 55g, not a 60g... that might be useful knowledge in the future.
personally i would look at something else as a tank. 55g's really lack depth from front to back.

you need to decide how you will keep up with calcium and alkalinty demands.
if you are only going to have soft corals then oyu don't need much but if you start keeping ancora and the like then you will be schooled on the eternal battle of calcium/alk elevation.
take a look at dosing systems, calcium reactors, and kalkwasser reactors. you will be pining for one of these soon after you start up... anything less is a PITA for calcifying coral tanks.

think of how you will best be able to change out water... will it be by garbage can or will you have something more automated? do you have a powerhead to transfer the water?
lots of things to buy.. that is for certain.
 

ChrisRD

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If you're just starting out I'd avoid seahorses and anglers. They require special care and really need to be in a species specific tank. Also, most hosting anemones require strong lighting and can be difficult to keep (long term). A BTA would probably be your best bet if you really want one. You also mentioned clams - I'm assuming Tridacna sp. . They also require very good water quality and very strong lighting to thrive.

There are many hardy soft & stony corals as well as fish and inverts to choose from when starting out. Probably best to get some experience running your tank and taking care of these more forgiving specimens before getting into stuff that has specialized requirements, and/or low tolerance for water quality problems, etc.

IMO you're on the right track by asking first before you jump in. Defniitely aquire some books, do searches here, check out the RDO library and of course, post specific questions here. It will be time well spent and will save you a lot of frustration, time and money in the future.

Good luck with your new setup and :welcome:
 
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Anonymous

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You guys forgot to mention that with some of the things on his list, he's gonna need some mh lighting. In a tank that size it's going to have to be more than one at that. And that means a chiller needs to be added to the list.
 

RobertoVespucci

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Thanks for the encouragement.


Seahorses are what actually started the fantasy. It's taken several years, I'm sure I can wait a few more. Putting up with not-so-subtle hints from the missus might be harder.

Do you think the large tank, 36"Wx20"Hx18"D, will be a good size to get my hands wet? Podman, it's not a standard 55. They're like 48"x20"x13". Assuming I don't end up hating the hobby, we will eventually install something in the 6-8' wide range. I'm not worried about 'wanting' a bigger tank; I just don't want to get an in between that will be useless in a few years.

As for metal halides . . . 2x250 seem right? Tank is 20"H minus 4" of sand gives 16" of water. Set them 12" in from each end seems like an even light distribution. Is that going to be too bright on the bottom for softies and lps? To handle the heat I was planning on the evaporation/topoff trick.

In this house we're about to buy there is a dungeon-like basement (it actually spooks me out a little) that I can put all of the water making/mixing/moving gear in. Maybe then I can use the stand cabinet as storage. That would be cool.

For RO systems, how much waste water is produced when making water normally? I know it's more money, but straight DI might be better for my situation.

I saw in wade's tank he has two types of clowns. I'm sure I can't do that in the 60, but how large of a tank would make that reasonable? We havedifferent ideas on the perfect species of clowns. I'm thinking about down the road, if it were possible we should get the less aggressive species for this tank.
 

ChrisRD

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RobertoVespucci":9xkgsir9 said:
Seahorses are what actually started the fantasy. It's taken several years, I'm sure I can wait a few more.

If you want to pursue seahorses, my suggestion is to setup a separate tank just for them (preferably one that is tall) and stick to captive bred animals.

RobertoVespucci":9xkgsir9 said:
Do you think the large tank, 36"Wx20"Hx18"D, will be a good size to get my hands wet?

Yes.

RobertoVespucci":9xkgsir9 said:
As for metal halides . . . 2x250 seem right? Tank is 20"H minus 4" of sand gives 16" of water. Set them 12" in from each end seems like an even light distribution. Is that going to be too bright on the bottom for softies and lps? To handle the heat I was planning on the evaporation/topoff trick.

250s would be enough for anything. Just keep lower light corals in the lower parts of the tank or partially hidden under ledges. If the tank has no centerbrace you could get away with one lamp (ends of tank will be slightly dimmer than center - can be useful for placing different coral types). Evaporative cooling (ie. fans) is often adequate for temp control provided the room is climate controlled.

RobertoVespucci":9xkgsir9 said:
In this house we're about to buy there is a dungeon-like basement (it actually spooks me out a little) that I can put all of the water making/mixing/moving gear in. Maybe then I can use the stand cabinet as storage. That would be cool.

Look into plumbing a sump (to the display tank) in the basement. It can help with the cooling issue along with giving you plenty of room to set everything up, work on stuff without being cramped for space, and keeping the majority of the noise making stuff out of the living area of the house. It might also allow you the room to setup a large sump and increase system water volume (more water = more stability).

RobertoVespucci":9xkgsir9 said:
For RO systems, how much waste water is produced when making water normally? I know it's more money, but straight DI might be better for my situation.

Normally RO rejection rates are around 3 or 4 gallons to waste for each gallon of product water produced. This will vary depending on several factors. If your tap water is low in TDS (total dissolved solids) DI only may be an OK option, but you're right, it's not the cheapest method in the long run.

RobertoVespucci":9xkgsir9 said:
I saw in wade's tank he has two types of clowns. I'm sure I can't do that in the 60, but how large of a tank would make that reasonable? We havedifferent ideas on the perfect species of clowns. I'm thinking about down the road, if it were possible we should get the less aggressive species for this tank.

Hard to say, but a long tank (say 6') would definitely increase the likelihood for success with that. Especially if the respective pairs host in stuff that's on oppposite ends of the tank. :wink: As with any fish, personalities and aggressiveness vary by individual, but Skunk Clowns are some of the mildest mannered. Tomato and Maroon Clowns are some of the more aggressive species.
 
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Anonymous

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Time for me to get flamed. I have a clarkii and ocellaris in a 29 8O and they do get along, but both have their own anenome.
 

RobertoVespucci

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ChrisRD":24iz9xiu said:
Normally RO rejection rates are around 3 or 4 gallons to waste for each gallon of product water produced. This will vary depending on several factors. If your tap water is low in TDS (total dissolved solids) DI only may be an OK option, but you're right, it's not the cheapest method in the long run.

Oi! My fears were confirmed. Can the waste water be used for other things, like washing laundry, showers, and dare I ask drinking? I mean, it seems there would only be 1/4-1/3 more dissolved stuff. I guess I could filter the drinking water with one of those home center inline kits. Would need to change the water heater rod more often, but those are cheap.

Otoh, with this tank I'm only looking at what an extra 150 gallons a month?
 

SnowManSnow

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I think you'll do fine! You're starting out the right way. Just remember to move slow and do things right the frist time. Don't skimp on your skimmer and lighting, and you'll actually be suprised how easy it is to have a successful reef. You can get as technical as you like, but for most of us a good skimmer, plenty of light, some water flow, some live rock, a few corals and fish, and a glass box will do fine :)

Good luck on your journey!
 

ChrisRD

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RobertoVespucci":2ija8fjy said:
Oi! My fears were confirmed. Can the waste water be used for other things, like washing laundry, showers, and dare I ask drinking?

Yes, using the "waste" water for other stuff is fine. It's just a slightly more concentrated version of your tapwater and in some ways may actually be better as it's been passed through the micron and carbon prefilters.
 

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