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MGR201

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Manhattan
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After more than 20 years keeping fish only tanks, I decided that my life was too comfortable so I started a small reef tank in a BioCube 29.

I'm operating with the standard BioCube hood and standard lighting along with the BioCube mini-skimmer and the BioCube 5 Watt UV Sterilizer. I have removed most of the bio balls from the middle chamber and have replaced them with Chemipure Elite, a phosphate reducing agent and mechanical filter media (with carbon). I added additional water circulation with a Hydor Nano Circulation Powerhead. I have about 35lbs of live rock that has some interesting fauna and flora appearing-- copepods, brittle stars, tiny fan worms, and purple coralline algae.

The tank has been operational for five weeks now and has cycled. It has a lively CUC that includes 12 Astrea Snails, 4 Nassarius Snails, 3 Florida Nerite Snails, 3 Blue Legged Hermit Crabs and 1 small Fighting Conch. I also seeded the tank with additional copepods as I eventually hope to keep a Mandarin.

The first piscene resident (a tank-raised Pseudochromis Fridmani) was introduced about a week ago and has readily adapted. My main issue has been heat (I live in a very warm Manhattan building and sometimes have to run the air conditioning even in winter-- gotta love NYC Steam!)-- the tank runs between 79-82 degrees without a heater.

Yesterday, I introduced my first coral-- a small Daisy Polyp soft coral. Assuming it begins to open up and flourish, I will slowly add additional corals over the next several months.

So, here are my initial questions for commentary:

1) Heat/Light Issues- what are other people's experiences with respect to the temperature in BioCubes? Do they all run so warm? If I wanted to upgrade/increase the lighting to be able to keep acroporas or clams, is that possible without generating excess heat? For space/aesthetic reasons, neither a chiller nor the BioCube HQI hood would work in the space I have. Are there any SPS corals or clam species that can tolerate/thrive under standard BioCube lighting?

2) Dipping and acclimating corals- I used a precautionary iodine dip on my first coral before introduction to remove any potential flatworm infestations. The result was no flatworm carcasses but a bunch of dead copepods. There also was a small feather duster worm hidden among the coral polyps but post-dip I haven't seen it emerge again. Did I kill it? What have been the group's experiences with dipping-- do you kill more stuff you might want than risk introducing stuff you might not? Frankly, in the 24 hours post-dip, the coral hasn't appeared particularly happy either-- how long do they usually take to adjust after the trauma of transport, dipping and introduction? (I used an hour drip method to acclimate the coral to my aquarium conditions before adding the iodine).
 

tosiek

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They usually run hot, around that temp. Biocubes are knows for heat issues so you want a way to cool it down, either the mini chiller probes or fans. And the heat jumps up when you increase lighting. Theres plenty of modding forums for biocubes and nanotuners.com has alot of aftermarket stuff for them as well.

As far as the iodine dip how did you do it? how much did you add? And yes you want to be taking care of pests from any new acquisition for your tank. And be careful on the process because things react badly to iodine dips as well. Alot of people have been using Coral Revive to clean their coral so you might want to read the reviews and forum posts on that as well.

And most times coral just need to be temp acclimated unless the PH and salinity are off by alot.
 

basiab

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Location
secret
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I don't dip corals. But I am sure many do.
I have an Aquapod 24 gallon and it does run over 80 in the summer. I use a fan on it if it gets too hot.
I doubt you could keep a mandarin well fed in that tank. Some here have been able to but they were exceptions. You have to get the fish to eat food besides just pods on the rocks.
 

MGR201

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Manhattan
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Regarding the dip-- I placed the coral in a large metric beaker along with the water it came in (LFS tank 78 degrees/pH 8.2). I added water from my tank (80 degrees/pH 8.3) for an hour via a drip until the water volume had doubled. I then dosed the beaker with the iodine solution, using a conservative estimate of the water volume in the beaker (minus the volume of the coral). I waited 5 minutes, then shook the coral and rotated it 360 degrees to remove any loose material. After another 5 minutes, I removed it from the dip and placed it in the aquarium.
 
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I currently run a JBJ 28 with the CF-Quad...and heat is also a constant issue for me too. Believe it or not by leaving the food port open on top of the canopy actually keeps the temp at about 80F and from spiking up to 82F.

I am also looking to add a fan to the back of the tank over the filtration chamber to try and drop the temp down. If i can get a constant 77F or so it would be ideal.

Chillers are an expensive option both in equipment and electricity...and for a few degrees a fan might do the job.
 

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