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After a lot of experimentation, it seems that about 1.5 tsp. per gallon gave me a good saturated mix without an excessive amount of precipitation. [ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: slash7 ]

I have 2 96 watt Smartlights on one of my tanks and it looks great. I have several different LPS corals in there and they are looking healthy and happy. Tank has been running with those lights for 14 months and no problems whatsoever. Just changed the bulbs and probably could have gone longer...

My favorites are: The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner Natural Reef Aquariums by John Tullock The Reef Aquarium, Vol. 1 by Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History by Eric Borneman. All of these have a wealth of good current...

I believe you mean the RO/DI systems, which are Reverse Osmosis/Deionization filters. For most applications, an RO unit by itself will be a fine choice. DI will give you an extra level of filtration but of course drive up the cost. Kent Marine has some good info on these filters on their web...

I have a Kent Marine RO system and you can either mount it or keep it portable. Just go to Home Depot and get an adapter for your kitchen faucet for a standard hose fitting. When you need to make up water, unscrew the aerator from your faucet, hook up the RO and make up your water. Afterward you...

The best clamps I've found are the ratchet clip hose clamps. They are all plastic and work very well. A recent thread on this subject and a pic of the clamps can be found at http://www.thereeftank.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=003778

They should easily last 18 months. When you can no longer calibrate, it's time to change.

LOL danmhippo, nice disclaimer. Iodine supplements can certainly be a touchy subject around here huh?

I usually mix my kalkwasser up a day before, using 1 tsp. per gallon of water. I let this settle for a least 12 hours and then siphon the clear liquid into another container for use. If you haven't tried this method, perhaps it would help.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly here, but are you saying you are about to add 2 gals to your 29 gal tank? Kalk must be added VERY slowly...with it's high pH it can be devastating to add too much all at once...

The answer will depend on many different factors such as what animals you plan to keep and how often and how much you plan to do water changes. The best thing you can do is get the necessary test kits to monitor what is going on with your water chemistry and get some idea of what, if anything...

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lawndoctor: <STRONG>Tank overflow -> sump -> chiller -> pump -> tank returns. The Aquanetics instructions recommended that the pump be placed in line after the chiller, so that the pump sucks...

They'll clog up in no time. IMHO they aren't worth spending money on.

Mine is plumbed directly into the return line from the sump. I don't know what size chiller or tank you have, but usually aquarium chillers and made to cool gradually and won't dump "ice-cold" water into your tank. Another thing to consider is that most chillers have a flow-rate recommendation...