SPS coloration

[oimate84]

I just recently acquired some acropora frags for my 55gal system and will try my luck with SPS. I have a question about the coloration though. Right now I have (2) 175watt 10k halides and 2 40watt actinics and its been 2 weeks since I introduced the acro. But it has lost some of its green color and getting browner. Is this coral acclimating to my lighting from the previous owner? or do I need to move the coral more up on the rock for better lighting? Thanks

Parameters:
Calcium-450
Nitrate: less then 10
phosphates:none

 

[Anonymous]

your new coral will inevitably change in color. some will grow more colorful in some scenarios, more often people have problems with browning.

i have had much more colorful "SPS" since i upgraded my actinics to VHO. it is often the case that more blue will create more colors.

the browning is not really an indication of poor coral health, it is just an adjustment the coral is making to the given conditions. in lower light situations the coral needs to produce more zooxanthellae to function. it is theorized that this is a main reason for what is happening in your tank. raising the specimen might help, but i doubt it.
i suggest more blue light.
oh yeah, low alk. can cause corals to brown too.

hth

 

[O P Ing]

hi.
More light will help, no matter if it is in term of blue or regular light. So move it up higher if you have the space.

However, more blue light is not a good idea if you upgrade your 10K to 20K, for example. Higher Kelvin bulb give off less light, and you may end up with even browner specimen. YMMV.

So what is the previous owner's setup?

FWIW, I have a A. millipora that goes from purple to green to yellow in the very same tank with the same light setup... go figure.. :?

 

[The Pirate]

DKH plays a critical roll on coloration and health in general for SPS. Calcium does no good if the alkalinity is too low. Think of it this way. Calcium is the main building block for the coral to be healthy but the alkalinity is the mortar that allows more blocks to be stacked. one without the other is useless. I recommend using a calcium reactor and, or B-ionic for trace goodies.

With 175 mh you are stuck using 10k IMO because you need the higher PAR (amount of light). A 400 watt 20k bulb puts out about the same amount of light as a 10k 175 but you get the nicer color. Anything less PAR then this and your other parameters become very critical but it can be done. A 65k 400 watt bulb puts out about the same amount of PAR as the sun on a reef at about 10am. Not much in comparison to what the corals are used to seeing. I would recommend Power Compacts for actinic or at least VHOs. The more tubes you can fit the better. 8)

 

[oimate84]

Thanks for the help...Ive never even thought about alk playing a factor in the coloration. Also Im going to change out the 40 watt actinics and get some PC actinics hooked up.

 

[The Pirate]

Glad to help. :mrgreen:

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
I am confused... what does brick and mortar affect the color of the paint? :?

 

[The Pirate]

hi.
I am confused... what does brick and mortar affect the color of the paint? :?

A healthy coral is a colorful coral. A stressed SPS losses it's color, most often during shipping.

 

[Garry thomas]

since putting 400watter's above my tank, the acropora's colouring up nicely. Greens yellows and on e is going a shade of blue. :lol:

 

[The Pirate]

since putting 400watter's above my tank, the acropora's colouring up nicely. Greens yellows and on e is going a shade of blue. :lol:

Outstanding tank my friend!
What bulbs did you go with?

 

[bar]

IWASAKI 6500K

 

[King Jason]

Someone needs to help us Californians get cheaper power so I can put 3 400w MH's over my tank! :? Does anyone have the numbers on how much PAR VHO produce?

 

[MiNdErAsR]

A healthy coral is a colorful coral.

Not necessarily so. Acropora can be brown or tan (not very colorful) and still be a healthy specimen. Not all coral are pink, blue, green, or purple.

 

[oimate84]

Polyp extension on my SPS is great and the frag is also growing out small branches already, But as far as color goes, id love to put some 400watters on my 55gal, but without a chiller it would be way to hot...But im gonna solve that problem sooner or later with a bigger tank

 

[The Pirate]

A healthy coral is a colorful coral.

Not necessarily so. Acropora can be brown or tan (not very colorful) and still be a healthy specimen. Not all coral are pink, blue, green, or purple.

It is in my tank... :wink:

 

[O P Ing]

hi.
My Majesty, bring your tank to the office, and plug the light in there instead. Eveyone will enjoy it, and your boss will pay the bill instead. :twisted:

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
I am confused... what does brick and mortar affect the color of the paint? :?

A healthy coral is a colorful coral. A stressed SPS losses it's color, most often during shipping.

I agree with MiNdErAsR. Just because a coral is growing well does not mean that it will have "nice" color. Some of the fastest growing coral I ever see are brown/tan corals.

It is true that a stressed coral losses its color. However, the converse does not necessarily true.

I guess my point is that just because the condition for growth is perfect for a coral, it does not necessary force it to color up.

Coral coloration is a complicated issue, and I am not aware of a particular study that prove anything. However, since it is usually easier to say what is not true, so MiNdErAsR and me is on a slightly better playfield than you in this regard.

 

[leftovers]

The Pirate wrote: A healthy coral is a colorful coral.

Just FYI most SPS corals are brown, tan or drab green....pretty much boring...that we have bright colors in our tanks is not as much a result of light as is it is a result of the collectors that go for pieces that will retail well....

 

[The Pirate]

You boys are loosing track of the post and are more focused on the fact that yes "in the wild" most are brown. Now that we have thoroughly covered that can we move on to the posted question? It has to do with a GREEN acro loosing it's color to brown gentlemen. My reply was suggesting that he take a good look at his alkalinity because dips in this can cause loss of color in a naturally colorful acro. This is something nobody else mentioned and I believe to be a popular way most folks loose the nice colors in there captive kept acros.

 

[Anonymous]

I'll pipe up to say that I learned something from Pirate here: that being the easily understood brick and mortar analogy, and that light/lighting/light quality aren't the only factors affecting coloration.

Gotta learn something new EVERY DAY. That's the rule.