Tdawg129

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I'm interested in adding a sump to my 40-gal. reef tank. I am having a hard time finding a place/someone that sells commercial sumps or builds custom ones. Any suggestions? The one place I did call (can't remember the name) had a 6 month wait!

Any suggestions welcome. Thanks,

Jessica
 

livingstone

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Oceanic makes some glass ones but I don't see them advertised on their web site. I've seen them in a couple of fish stores including That Fish Place.
 

jdeets

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I'd just build your own. I use a 29 gallon glass aquarium under my stand as a sump. I put some baffles in it and viola, cheap sump. The rubbermaid containers are even easier to use because if you use an external return pump, you can cut a hole in them yourself. I had to have my glass one drilled professionally. At any rate, it's simple to build one and you can do it for about $75 or less.
 

xrenx

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hey guys,

what happens when you power goes out and there is a siphon going from your main tank to you sump sitting below the tank. is there a way to prevent an overflow from happening? what kind of pumps/powerheads do you guys recommend for a sump. how do you get the flow rates between the main tank and the sump exactly the same? the reason why i am asking all this is because i tried to set up a sump with a 10 gallon tank and 2 rio's. it was up for about a week and inevitably there was bunch of water on my carpet.
 
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Anonymous

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by xrenx:
<STRONG>is there a way to prevent an overflow from happening? </STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have a small hole drilled on each of my returns to prevent any siphoning from starting. The most common way is to just drill a 1/16" hole just barely under the water line. Be very careful no to drill at a down angle. ie. You want the hole pointing down, not up. If it is pointing up you could create a fountain and fry all of your lights.

Mine is just above the water line and shoots a small stream of water into the tank. That way I can visually check to make sure it's not clogged up.
 
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Anonymous

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As long as you don't exceed the maximum flow rate of your overflow with the return pump, the flows will be balanced (use a valve on the discharge of the pump to limit flow).

As far as a power outage, you should have at least one hole drilled in the return just below the surface of the water. Some water will flow backwards into the sump, but once the holes get uncovered, it will stop. Leave enough freeboard in the sump to allow that amount of backflow without overflowing.

Some people also rig a float valve in the main tank to the return pump. That way, if the overflow fails, the trip the return pump before it overfills the main tank.

Ty
 

Lark

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<<what happens when you power goes out and there is a siphon going from your main tank to you sump sitting below the tank>>

I'm setting up a new system, so I'll take a shot at this one. Whatever your overflow situation, it should be designed so that if the pump stops working the amount of overflow will be limited. An overflow box, for example, ensures that only water that can flow into the box will fill into the sump. Make sure the box is sealed well and that the overflow is near the top of the tank. If you drill a hole for overflow, do so very high in the tank. If you were to drill one on the bottom of the tank, for example, and not have an overflow box, it would drain the whole tank. (Giving you much worse problems than just a wet carpet.
icon_sad.gif
) As for the return, the best thing to do if your set up allows is put it near the top of the tank. If you have a piece of pvc or other return hose pointed down, you can drill a hole in the top of the return hose. That way, if you get a reverse siphon going back into your sump, once the water level drains to the drilled hole, it will put air in the return and break the siphon.

As for the question about matching flow rate to return rate, you can choose whatever you like with your return pump. It's a closed system. The water will only return to the tank at the speed your return pump sends it back, so it will overflow at that same rate. Just decide how high you want the level of water in your sump, put the right amount of water in there, and then turn on your pump. It will circulate at the speed of your pump (or the speed you set if you use a ball joint). The only time this would be an issue is if you have a very slow overflow rate and a super pump. In other words, if you were draining using a 1/2 inch bulkhead and had a 1200 gph return pump, your overflow wouldn't keep up with your pump and would drain the sump or, if you handn't carefully set the water level in your sump, overflow your tank or both.
 

Enkidu

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote
As for the question about matching flow rate to return rate, you can choose whatever you like with your return pump. It's a closed system. The water will only return to the tank at the speed your return pump sends it back, so it will overflow at that same rate. Just decide how high you want the level of water in your sump, put the right amount of water in there, and then turn on your pump. It will circulate at the speed of your pump (or the speed you set if you use a ball joint). The only time this would be an issue is if you have a very slow overflow rate and a super pump. In other words, if you were draining using a 1/2 inch bulkhead and had a 1200 gph return pump, your overflow wouldn't keep up with your pump and would drain the sump or, if you handn't carefully set the water level in your sump, overflow your tank or both.

Be careful here; its easier than you think to get a pump thats too much for a given overflow. My roomate has a hang-on type overflow with atleast 3/4" U-tube and overflow fittings that is being maxed out by a RIO 2500. He has to throttle back the pump so the water level doesn't touch the center divider in his 80gal glass tank.
 

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