nanoreefer22

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http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1582958

What do you guys think? Has anyone on here messed around with the idea and gotten results?

I recently shortened my photo period only cause the corals were starting to close before the lights went out, so i figured it was too long. Cut only an hour off and thinking of cutting another, if it might be beneficial.
 

House of Laughter

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Nano,

I swear that no one listens to me -

I run 3x250 Phoenix DE's 14k on HQI ballasts NO ACTINICS!!!
Lighting patterns:

4pm - halide center
9pm - halide center off

5 hours

6pm - Halides outer (2)
11pm - halides outer off

5 hours

in total, tank get's "light" for 7 hours.

Proof is in the pudding!

House

CA - 480
Alk - 11.2
MG - 1350
temp - 79
carbon reactor
phosban reactor
 

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jackson6745

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Kris, I haven't kept a halide photo period longer than 6 hours in the last 4 years. I only keep supplements on because I like to see the tank. Shortening or lengthening the PP can also help you tweak the colors.
 

nanoreefer22

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I'm gonna give it a try :D When 3 people, especially 3 people with above average(by far) tanks, agree on something there's usually something to it. I'm gonna try 6.5 to start to not shock anything to much.

Is there any truth to the second post in the thread, about corals not being able to properly feed at night due to too much light during the day?
 

mluz

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Very interesting thread.

Would the same apply for t5 lighting or do you guys think and extend period would be better. Should i reduce it?

Right now i am running 6 bulbs on ice cap reflectors with regular ballasts from reefgeek.
2 outside bulbs for 8 hours, next 2 from the outside 7 hours and 2 in the middle for 6 hours on a 75 gal.
 

NYreefNoob

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poughquag, ny
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when i ran t5's i ran a 6 bulb config and ran antics for 8-9 hr's mix bulbs came on for 7 hr's and 11k's for 6 hr's , if it wasnt for greed of wanting to see my tank lit up when i got home my actually light set-up would run with true light hr's with mh coming on from 10 am to 3 pm. tank also gets direct sun as it sits 3 foot from a window that faces sunrise, but like i said im greedy and want to see my tank, plus i wouldnt be able to run home to feed either
 

jackson6745

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NJ
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pjewet, I'm not sure if I understand correctly, but shortening the PP won't effect your phosphate level.

No matter what lighting you have, if your SPS color are faded/pastel colors this means you have a low nutrient level and consequently you have SPS will a lower amount of zoozanthelle living inside them. A shorter photoperiod and even less intense light will be enough to to keep SPS colorful, healthy, and growing.:bablefish
If your SPS colors are darker/brown you have a high nutrient level, more zoozanthelle, and will require much more light to keep them growing (brown acros do grow when blasted with light). In general survival rates are poor in higher nutrient reefs so cleaner water should be the main goal. Lighting is only a portion of whats needed to keep acros colorful and growing:duh:
 

pjewett

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jackson, i should have qualified that comment as an experiment as i came across a thread here or at RC and some guy SWORE it effected his phosphate level but i know it makes little sense.

my SPS are all doing very well except for a slimer that is puzzling me...i think it's bleaching out and i may move it lower.

all my levels are excellent except for Phosphates which were 2 before i started working the problem with big water changes, less feedings..etc.

mostly i reduced lighting period because the consensus seems to be that 10+ hours may be unnecessary or even harmful.
 

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