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icefire

Reefer
i have this blanket like algae thick algae in the sand and lots more every where. and all my snails are sitting all shriveled up and dont move and some are dead.. What can i do any help would be much appriciated!!!!
 

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A

Anonymous

Guest
Looks like a cyano outbreak to me. You should check your nitrates, nitrites and even ammonia levels.

Did the snails die first, followed by the outbreak of cyano, or the other way round? If the snails died, their decaying may have set off the outbreak, but you should be looking into what killed them (any additives added?). If the cyano came first, it may have been particulary high levels of nutrients that killed the snails.

What filtration have you got? Protein skimmer etc...
 

SnowManSnow

Advanced Reefer
1)PUll out dead animals if they ARE dead.
2)I would recommend upping your H2O changes to 2x/week for a month. about 1/3rd total volume each time.
3)Syphon out what algae you can.
4)If you don't have coral denizens in there you may consider taking out your LR and scrubbing it with a clean toothbrush to remove the algae from the rocks. Sometimes it will grow thick enough where you can pick it up for removal too.
5)Make SURE you are using at least RO water if not RODI. Direct some pretty heavy flow across the algae (this sometimes helps).
6)I see you have a biowheel filter there.... I would reccomend taking OUT the biowheel... you may consider taking out the filter part too just leaving a bag of carbon in there if possible for a week or so.
7)I didn't see one... If you are serious about reefing you will probably need to consider a skimmer. I would recommend a CPR Backbak or a AquaC Remora (if you can spare some extra coin). Check eBay.
8)Slowly begin to lower your temp to 75 if it is much higher than that. The algae NORMALY grows better at warmer temps.

If you do these basic things I can't imagine that it wouldn't clear up in short order.

Good luck with your new tank!

B
 

icefire

Reefer
Now when u say to take out the bio wheel, do u mean take it out for good or remove it and clean it and then put it back in a week or so or just take it out and then put it back in a week not cleaning it?

and my water evaporates pretty quick so sould i just add some ro water or tap water with the prime in it when the level gets low from that or should i just do another water change!?!?

and yes i do have a skimmer its a prizm but i was thinking about getting a new wet dry filtration with a skimmer built in it!!!
 

SnowManSnow

Advanced Reefer
I recommend taking out the biowheel completely. Most reefers (myself included) only use LR and skimming for flitration.

When you do top offs add RO water WITHOUT salt (you probably knew that already)

As far as the wet-dry stuff goes... most successful reefers will just recommend a good skimmer. Most that suggest buying a wet-dry system are selling one :)

B
 

icefire

Reefer
do u have any pics of your set up that i can see!!!

and u mean the whole filtersystem not just the spinning wheel right!?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Have you tested your tank for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate?
 

garagebrian

Advanced Reefer
icefire":3mjsto35 said:
and my water evaporates pretty quick so sould i just add some ro water or tap water with the prime in it when the level gets low from that or should i just do another water change!?!?

What do you mean by "prime in it"? If it is an additive, you don't need additives in your tank yet, if ever, it looks like you only have live rock and snails and regular water changes will take care of them fine.

I highly suggest RO water or even better RO/DI water, never use tap water if you can avoid it.

I second the skimmer only and no wet/dry.

B.
 

MartinE

Advanced Reefer
take the wheels out of the filter for good. you can leave the filter for water movement if you want as long as you clean the bottom out every once and a while and change the carbon/pad at least monthly.
 

icefire

Reefer
prime is an additive to tap water to remove chlorine and such out of the water. or so it says

I have 2 clown fish (about a year old) in there that i had in a 29 gal tank with the 55lbs of live rock in before i transfered to the 55 gal, hense the small light on the tank and 1 green chromis(about a year old), and a lawnmower blenney right now. i got the LB to eat algae cause my snails and crabs kept dieing.

What skimmer do u recomend to get.?

and when cleaning the live rock do i need to take any precausions. (can i run the rock under tap water while cleaning it too??) or what. sorry im not to knowledgable about most this stuff. Thank u for this site!!!!!

I do appriciate all the help from every one!!!!! :lol:
 

garagebrian

Advanced Reefer
icefire":3j93ymhs said:
prime is an additive to tap water to remove chlorine and such out of the water. or so it says

I have 2 clown fish (about a year old) in there that i had in a 29 gal tank with the 55lbs of live rock in before i transfered to the 55 gal, hense the small light on the tank and 1 green chromis(about a year old), and a lawnmower blenney right now. i got the LB to eat algae cause my snails and crabs kept dieing.

What skimmer do u recomend to get.?

and when cleaning the live rock do i need to take any precausions. (can i run the rock under tap water while cleaning it too??) or what. sorry im not to knowledgable about most this stuff. Thank u for this site!!!!!

I do appriciate all the help from every one!!!!! :lol:

Oh, OK, prime seems OK then if it is designed to remove chlorine. Just make sure you aren't adding too much. Also make sure you give the chemicals time to react and wait at least 12-24 hours before adding water to the tank that has been treated with prime.

There has to be something seriously wrong with your water chemistry if your crabs and snails keep dying. What parameters can you test? You need to know:

pH: (should be between 7.8 and 8.5, ideally 8.0-8.3)
Salinity: ideally should be 1.026, although 1.024-1.028 is acceptable)
alk: should be between 5-11 kH, 7-8 is ideal
temp: should stay between 77-83

What do you test your salinity with? swing arm hydrometers are notorious for very inaccurate readings. I had 2 of them that I used to use and average. Their readings were 1.025 and 1.028, I bought a nice refractometer for less than $50 and my actual reading was 1.023.

The aquaC remora or aquaC remora pro with preskimmer box are generally considered the absolute best HOT skimmer, although personally I had a CPR BakPak 2 skimmer that did a nice job once tuned.

If you are using prime, you are probably using tap. Tap water in some areas of the country can be full of contaminates and toxins, I would switch to RO or RO/DI.

B.
 

SnowManSnow

Advanced Reefer
When you DO get the skimmer you need be aware that additives like Prime (great stuff for FW btw) will seriously impede the efficency of your skimmer, and more than likely cause it to bubble out of control for a day or so :)


OH.. and as far as CA and ALK goes..... I use B-Ionic.. its a 2 part additive that you add in = amounts that doses both. It's really worked well for me. BUT if you aren't housing any inverts that need it or coral... CA isn't a huge deal.

Don't add anyting you don't need :)

Just a heads up.. cause I've done it b4 :)

B
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
An RO unit could actually be the best investment you could make, given that it would remove the need for the Prime (saving money in the long run) and give you much purer water than dechlroinated tap water.

Good luck!
 

Nautilus1

Advanced Reefer
That looks really bad. I had that problem about 10 years ago. I think i scrubbed all the rocks by hand and it smelled anoxic.
 

SnowManSnow

Advanced Reefer
I know my RODI unit is VERY important to my success! Check out www.buckeyefieldsupply.com for a good RODI unit .. my 75gpd unit that I purchased there takes 59ppg and runs it to 0! not bad for under $200.

Good investment... Lighting.. Skimming...RODI Unit :) big 3:)
 

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