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DrHarryLopez

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Hey everyone,

In my quest for acheiving less than 0.03 phosphates and maintaining it I'd like everyone to chime in on their Techniques in reduction of Phosphates

So far:
A strong skimmer
Reduce feedings
large fuge
strong flow with no dead spot in the tank
cleanup squad (hermits, snails, Conchs)

Wat do people think about:
Live rock in sump?
I'm currently thinking about VSV/VGV dosing for ULNS
what am i missing?
 
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DrHarryLopez

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I think LR in sump is a bad idea. It becomes a area where detritus collects. The whole idea I believe is denitrification in the LR, but its better achieved from a deep sand bed IMO.

Makes sense. I have read however that DSB in a captive reef needs to be changed every 6 ro 7 yrs. Or some number like that.

I also read some guy who took a large tank (~125G) separated it into 3 sections, then had a dsb in first section year 1, then added a DSB in section 2 yr 2, a finally a dsb insec 3. in yr 4 removed the dsb of sec 1 and replaced it with a new dsb

What do you guys(gals too) think?
 

juiceguy

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i agree on getting some sort of media reactor and running GFO but keep in mind.......the "0" reading is almost mythical, everyone has phos in there tanks. you are better off trying to maintain a reading below .05, it will be less stressful on yourself than trying to achieve a "0" reading
 

Alex

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i agree on getting some sort of media reactor and running GFO but keep in mind.......the "0" reading is almost mythical, everyone has phos in there tanks. you are better off trying to maintain a reading below .05, it will be less stressful on yourself than trying to achieve a "0" reading


I agree with frank. Many places will tell you that a phosphate of less than .03 is good, have that number gives you a good margin.

I myself use a BRS reactor with GFO and I have been reading a thread on RC about Vitamin C dosing. I am not pushing it, however what I can say is that My skimmer has been pulling some serious dark skim. I've been doing this for about a month with good results and nice growth.
 

DrHarryLopez

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After all is said n done
getting a phosban reactor or GFO, and maintaining ~0.03 phos levels
People have their differences of which reactor but they all agree that one is needed
Along with
A strong skimmer
Reduce feedings
large fuge
strong flow with no dead spot in the tank
cleanup squad (hermits, snails, Conchs)

People vary on water change frequency but most agree that it should be done to replenish trace elements and clean new water.
most do water changes weekly
some every two weeks, and some monthly (usually older mature large water volume tanks)

Just my contribution
Harry
 
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DREUTZ

Reefs R Madness!
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There's also use of ferric oxide to absorb Po4 or the polymer NP pellets to colonize bacteria strains to reduce No3 & Po4.

Do those polymer NP pellets work well to reduce phos and trates? I just started testing phos with one of those hanna meters and I did it 3 times the first night I got it and readings were .12, .53, .48. I plan on testing it again, but I'm also going to use my friends hanna meter to see if mine is off, but if it is that high I need to do something.

Also does rinsing the frozen food really make a big difference in trates and phos entering the tank? I usually spray that cloudy stuff on my rics and yumas in hopes that they will benefit from it. If rinsing does help out a lot, what is the recommended procedure to do so?



I also feed corals 2 times a week with marine snow and was feeding my electric flame scallop 2 times a week with live rotifers and then I switched to phytoplex. I've heard that too much of these products will cause an increase in trates, but will phos also increase?

(Tank is too small (29 gallon Biocube) for a phos reactor and I already run chemipure elite that was just changed a week before I tested with my hanna. I have the back chambers modded and the middle chamber is full of chaeto. I also run an aquaticlife 115 protein skimmer that has been pulling out some really dark skimmate once it got broken in)
 

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