• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

jschottenfeld

Experienced Reefer
Location
Nassau
Rating - 100%
12   0   0
I've had my 125G reef running for 3-1/2 years and for most of that time....successfully. During last summer (2010) I had some problems with A) the regulator on my CO2 tank for my calc reactor and B) my pH probe...combined with the fact that it WAS THE SUMMER!! This lead to some wild swings in my alk which I battled to correct but eventually did using 2 part solution.

For the last few months some of my caps and SPS are bleaching out and dying, some of my SPS?s have tissue that is receding from the edges, and some of my zoas are not thriving as much as they previously did or are just remaining closed when they had been doing fine for years. Other zoas and SPS?s in my tank are doing just fine, but generally speaking I don?t appear to be having the same growth that I have had in the past. Also just to mention, my clowns, tangs, wrasses, and gobies are all doing just fine.

First let me describe my system, I'll try to be as complete as possible because I hate when posters forget key facts that could help diagnose their problem. As mentioned above, my display is a 125 gallon bare bottom with 3x250 MH bulbs and 3 Tunze streams on a controller and a Wahoo return pump. I rotate the bulbs out yearly being careful to adjust light periods when the bulbs are new. I am running a Bermuda Aquatic 3C skimmer, an MRC Calc Reactor, Phosban reactor, carbon, filter socks changed weekly, Chiller to keep temp below 81 degrees, 60 gallon sump, 30 gallon fuge with DSB and Chaeto, (fuge also acts as a frag tank). I?m running a RKE controller to keep all devices in line and controlled. Using RO/DI water with 15 gal changes pretty much every week. I feed the tank 2 to 3 times per week with food and toss in BRS Reef Chili once or twice a week at night.

Here are my current tank parameters:
SG 1.025 Mag 1420
Calc 490 Temp 79.8
pH 8.38 NO3 0
Alk 9.6 PO4 0

For the first two years my tank was fairly bulletproof, most of my SPS?s and zoa?s flourished. At that time my Calcium level was keeping stable at around 320-360 and I always wanted it to be higher. After much trial and error my problem was caused by not having a consistent higher level of Mg. I had been adding liquid Mg but could never be consistent with it. At the beginning of this year I purchased a dosing pump for my Mg and from that point on I?ve been keeping a steady 1400-1500 level. Little by little I am tweaking the pump to bring it eventually down to 1350. As soon as I started using the pump for the Mg my calcium stayed consistent in the 500 range and my Alk stayed consistent 9.6-10.0.

As I stated above, I had swings in Alk from 7 to 13dKH during this past summer, but since 1/1/11 my parameters have been fairly consistent with the charted values above.

Two of my very large caps (green and grape), bleached out and died, and not just in my display tank but also frags of the same species in my fuge also bleached. Some Acros that I have are bleaching in spots and the spots are spreading. I do not see any infestation of any kind of worms upon inspection. Overall I do not see the different colored tips of my acros showing new growth.

I know this is a bit lengthy, but would appreciate any help that someone could provide as to why my corals are not thriving.

Thanks!
 
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Rating - 97.4%
74   2   0
I'm assuming you are using a refractometer for checking salinity. Have you calibrated it recently? A by-product of 2-part additions is increased salinity and refractometers need to be calibrated pretty frequently with a reliable known standard. Of course, it could be a zillion other things causing problems, but I've noticed Monti's in particular are sensitive to increased salinity and that is what I check 1st when I see the kinds of issues you describe.
 

jschottenfeld

Experienced Reefer
Location
Nassau
Rating - 100%
12   0   0
I replace them every 1/1. When they are replaced each of the 3 bulbs gets changed about 2 weeks apart on a reduced light period so that the corals adjust to the more intense light.
 

jschottenfeld

Experienced Reefer
Location
Nassau
Rating - 100%
12   0   0
I am using a refractometer, but couldn't tell you the last time that I calibrated it. I only used the 2 part solution to bring my alk in check. For the most part I am running a calcium reactor keeping my effluent at 6.6 pH
 

jschottenfeld

Experienced Reefer
Location
Nassau
Rating - 100%
12   0   0
Never mind....just found the little piece of paper was stuffed in the case. Directions on how to calibrate. I always laugh when take out the case. It says "PORTABLE REFRACTOMETER" in big block letters, almost like something that Batman (from the tv show) would've had on his utility belt.

I'll calibrate and get back to you. :)
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
Rating - 99.6%
450   2   0
Sounds like a nice system. This is not the answer to your problem, but I will say your skimmer is undersized for the system volume you're running.

Since you're seeing problems with both your monti's AND acros, I'd say if you had any type of infestation it would be a couple of different pests, not just one.
Your parameters, although just a tad high on Ca & Mg are far from problematic and not worth mentioning really.

I guess without offering you a solution, I just have a propensity for stating the obvious. :banghead:

We experienced some unexplained (to this day) catastrophic losses to our sps propagation system a little over three years ago, to the magnitude of two 5g buckets being filled with dead colonies. I cross my fingers you can identify the problem and fix it. My point here is that sometimes these setbacks are like a forest fire in nature, disastrous, catastrophic, unexplained, and yet beneficial (as forests do come back). I hope this is not the case for you.

Russ
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
Rating - 99.6%
450   2   0
What did you calibrate it with? TDS water? If so that is not the correct way to calibrate a refractometer to our reefing needs..

+1 RO/DI water is not a salinity stardard

Breakin Newz said:
I use American PinPoint Salinity Calibration Fluid to calibrate my refracto's and electronic salinity probes...

Great standard for calibrating the Pinpoint Salinity Monitor, not a refractometer.


Here's a great make 'your own standard' article by Randy Holmes-Farley.

Russ
 

jschottenfeld

Experienced Reefer
Location
Nassau
Rating - 100%
12   0   0
Russ, thanks for your input. Do you know of negative situations arising over a 500 level of calcium because for about a month or so the level was up in the 550 zone with a solid 1500 on Mg.

Breakin', I did calibrate with zero TDS water. Thanks!
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
Rating - 99.6%
450   2   0
Russ, thanks for your input. Do you know of negative situations arising over a 500 level of calcium because for about a month or so the level was up in the 550 zone with a solid 1500 on Mg.

Breakin', I did calibrate with zero TDS water. Thanks!


Even over 500 calcium isn't high enough to be concerned. Oceanic brand salt I've found to have exceedingly high calcium levels with no issues (over 500). I know lots of people that maintain their Mg over 1700 just to minimize certain algal growth (hair algae). So that's not a problem either.

Don't use zero TDS RO/DI water as your standard. It is certainly better than using tap water, but you're experiencing some major coral bleaching whereby you need to have every possibility examined. Your refractometer calibration is definitely still a question mark IMO.

Russ
 

Breakin Newz

Advanced Reefer
Location
North NJ
Rating - 100%
86   0   0
The Pinpoint Calibration Fluid is a standard to measure electroconductivity, not salinity.

"The Pinpoint fluid happens to be made to match seawater in other respects, not just conductivity.."

Would you care to explain why my pinpoint and refracto give both the same exact readings if you think otherwise? Both calibrated with the same fluid?
 
Last edited:

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top