So you thought this was Easy?

[Bhartman67]

Hi all new to the forum first post...Figured I would solicit feed back.

Hi all first post to the forum.

I have been running a 75 Gal Zero Edge for a year now with limited success.

? Soft
o Star Polyps and Zenia are growing like weeds. (I prune Zenia and throw them out ? Any want some?)
o Zoas Some do really well, some close up for a few days and reopen.
? Eagle Eye started as one microscopic polyp on a rock and is now over 20 huge polyps
? Green Zoas are half the number and 4 to 5 are closed per day
? Red Zoas are spreading nicely but thinning.
o Ricordia ? 4x size in 3 weeks

? LPS
o Brain ? Looks great, slow grower
o Plate coral short tent - fairing ok, no real growth, not really speadout
o Torch ? 4x size in a year Good
o Duncan - Two heads on grew to 8 Nice

? SPS
o Pink birds nest - 4x in size nice color (Perfect)
o Montipora Digitata ? No real growth undersides turning brownish
o Purple Stilo - (Polyps are mostly retracted and coloring is off ? some white areas)
o Red Planet - turned beige, still encrusting Rock, some sections turning brownish
o Watermellon Chalice - grew 4 eyes and spreading on rock.


Tank

Tank 24x48x18 Zero Edge (57.25 Gallons)
Sump ZS2 (20 Gallon + 14 Gallon overflow)
Pump Mag drive 1800 (x2)
Heater Visi-Therm stelth 300w (x2)
Protien Skimmer Reef Dynamics INS 180
Lights Acan AC 104 2x18"
R/O - DI Aqua FX ? Barracuda 100GPD
Po4 Reactor Two Little Fishes Phosban Reactor 550


Water Tests

Temperature 78?

Salinity 1.0250

PH 8

Nitrate 0

Alkalinkity (mEq/L) 195 ppm

Phosphate (mEq/L) 0.03 ppm

Calcium (ppm) 495



Recommendations from the LFS?(4 High Quality Stores in NJ/NYC)

? Increase your water flow. You cannot grow SPS in Zero Edge you don?t have enough flow.
o Obviously I cannot add power heads. I have water flowing over the outside of my tank. But I am currently push two Mag 18?s (3600 GPH) and I positioned the SPS in the flow.

? You need more light
o This I can agree with. I have infinite control of the Acan LED?s. I have been only running them at 40%. Slowly increasing 5% each week.
o Concerned my live rock is turning white on top? Should I need to worry?

? Change your Salt
o Reef Crystals doesn?t have enough Magnesium or Iodine in it for SPS
o Is this true?
o I do a 10% Water change (5 Gallons) each week.
o I also have R/O DI 0 PPM ? ATO (The tank evaporates A LOT 2-3 GPD)

? Your Phosphates are TOO HIGH
o .03 PPM is TOO HIGH? OK
o I just put the Two Little Fishes 550 on filled with ROWA
o We will see?

? Add our Additives
o Currently I am dosing Calcium and ALK every day
o Also adding
? Phols ? Sponge Power
? Phols ? Xtra
? Vitamin C (I am going to stop this I see no effect)
? Reef Snow (Every other day)
? Only feed the fish Pellet (Keeps the tank cleaner)

? You need to be dosing Iodine and Magnesium
o Really??
o I thought the Water Changes would keep that in line.


What are your thoughts?? What should I try first?

 

[aznmajik]

I would check your calc levels again. Definitely up the lighting. 1 year and you should have purple coraline growing everywhere. Coraline growing is a great sign, especially for SPS.

But I will agree that the tank is nice, but flow is an issue.

 

[ryangrieder]

First, welcome to MR! Enjoy your stay

Second, Wayne huh? Nice, finally someone kind of close to me, I'm over in Sussex county.

Third... What are you using to test your water pars with? Your phosphate level is great. .02-.03 is great. Your raising your lighting so that's a plus as well. Flow sucks, I know, it's rough for a zero edge, but 2 MAG18??? Holy smokes, that's a lot of flow going in there. What's your magnesium level? What filtration do you have going on? And also, I'd highly recommend switching to ESV salt.

 

[Bhartman67]

Thanks for the great feedback.

Aznmajik...

Agreed on the Coraline Algae! Good Catch.

Was dosing Brightwell A&B every other day (10ML)
Just increased to 5ML per day (Less variation in the levels).

With So Much RO into the tank on a daily basis (2-3 GPD), I think this was an issue, with no or little Coraline growing.

Now I have white calcium specs on the rocks, glass and refugium.

Coraline has started popping.

Thanks Again

 

[Bhartman67]

Ryan,

Great to See someone else in NNJ.

I use Hanna for Phos and ALK.

I use Instant Ocean and ARI for the others. (CA, Ph)

LFS told me "The only PHos level which is acceptable is 0!"

On the lighting - "How much how fast?" "How do I know when enough?"
LED's rock.

2x Mag 18's redundancy... I have almost everything redudant in the tank.

2 overflows, 2 Returns, two pumps, two separte power strips, two ATO's circuits, 2 overflow sensors, ATO cutoff. I am nuts about overflowing.

Filtration... Two overflows (Prefilter Sponges), 2x 200micro socks, Refugium with 4" of Live Sand, Rock & some plant, Euro Reef Skimmer (350G), Polishing sponges before pumps to return, 2 bags of ChemiPure, 2LF 550 with ROWA (Phos reactor).

I don't currently test Magnesium, Iodine, Strontium.

I figured Weekly 10% Water Changes and Reef Code A would take care of Mag, Iodine and Stron issues.

Reef Code A adds....
Calcium (min) 1,774 mg/oz. (60,000 ppm)
Magnesium (min) 42 mg/oz. (1,500 ppm)
Strontium (min) 36 mg/oz. (1,200 ppm)

ESV Salt? - I will definitely look at that.

Also looking at Hanna Calcium tests and running more frequently to see if there are larger fluctations during the day. (Might look at auto dosing A&B thoughout the day)??

 

[ryangrieder]

sounds like all is good and you know your stuff. hmm. why do you not test magnesium? magnesium is very important. my tank is never happy looking unless i keep it high magnesium levels. (1550) every tank is going to be different obviously. for phosphates, well, honestly i dont think 0 is even safe nor possible?! if a test kit says 0, its not a low range kit. you have a hanna, thats a great tester, very accurate. ARI test kits you use? or do you mean API? if API, look into getting accurate test kits. those kits everyone here will tell you are not accurate. ELOS and salifert are 2 of the best. API tells me my nitrates are 50-100, and phos is 2-3. accurate tests kits tell me completely the oppisite. personally i just started useing the brand new PRO series red sea test kits. AMAZING. i LOVE THEM. very accurate compared to elos and salifert, if not the same, but much easier to use and they come in really nice hard plastic containers with organizers. and ESV salt is the best salt on the market. look up any salt threads on here, and hands down ESV will always win.


ohh and you said your nuts about your tank overflowing....well news flash... your tank is 24/7 overflowing!:lol2:

 

[Bhartman67]

Overflow ...

Ryan,

You are correct my tank is constantly overflowing!! :biglaugh:
3600 GPH apx...

(I had a 185G FOLR tank for 10 years one time it overflowed about 50G onto my living room floor...I will never repeat that mistake...fish got stuck in the return and clogged. ;(



Yes API (ARI is a typoo)...

I hate all the color changing CA tests. I cannot tell the difference between dark pink and light purple or blue. How blue?

Going to buy a Hanna CA (No guessing on color)

I will have Hanna PO, CA and ALK. Then go buy a Salfert or PRO series red sea Magnesium test.
Will that complete me?? (Ala Gerry Macquire "You complete me...")

How about Iodine?

 

[ryangrieder]

correct. color changing test kits are a pain in the butt. hanna is one of the best on the market. digital read out will always win lol. actually, im not 100% sure, but i think ELOS Magnesium test kit is a non color changing kit. i though I read that somewhere before. ELOS is known for there eye appealing products and accurate kits. but the red sea pro one, is a color changer, but when the color changes, you know right away. its a distinct color change. and, as you can see from my picture, it comes with a new deivce red sea calls a "titrator" and what it is is a little holder for the 1ML syringe and you screw your glass test vial under it, and it has a grip for you to hold it with and make accurate single same sized drops. very cool. it actually comes with there calcium test kit too. and as for Salifert, that just is one of those all around best and most accurate kits. but yes, you will be complete.


most people do not test for iodine, so do not worry to much on that. thats up to you, but most dont.

Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, Ph, Phosphate, Calcium, Magnesium & Alk. those are all most important to test for.

 

[Boomer]

Recommendations from the LFS?(4 High Quality Stores in NJ/NYC)

? Increase your water flow. You cannot grow SPS in Zero Edge you don?t have enough flow.
o Obviously I cannot add power heads. I have water flowing over the outside of my tank. But I am currently push two Mag 18?s (3600 GPH) and I positioned the SPS in the flow.

Agree. There is not reason you can not add PH inside the tank almost ll do it.

? You need more light
o This I can agree with. I have infinite control of the Acan LED?s. I have been only running them at 40%. Slowly increasing 5% each week.

Agree

o Concerned my live rock is turning white on top? Should I need to worry?

Got a pic

? Change your Salt
o Reef Crystals doesn?t have enough Magnesium or Iodine in it for SPS

Gibberish nonsense, RC has on the order of ~ 1400+ and NSW is only ~ 1300
o Is this true?
No


o I do a 10% Water change (5 Gallons) each week.
o I also have R/O DI 0 PPM ? ATO (The tank evaporates A LOT 2-3 GPD)

Good

? Your Phosphates are TOO HIGH
o .03 PPM is TOO HIGH? OK

Dumb remark by them as no kit can test to that with any accuracy. If you shown 0.03 you are fine IMHO

o I just put the Two Little Fishes 550 on filled with ROWA
o We will see?

Good move

? Add our Additives
o Currently I am dosing Calcium and ALK every day

I hope only if needed

o Also adding
? Phols ? Sponge Power
? Phols ? Xtra
? Vitamin C (I am going to stop this I see no effect)
? Reef Snow (Every other day)

Stop adding **** you do not need



? Only feed the fish Pellet (Keeps the tank cleaner)

OK

? You need to be dosing Iodine and Magnesium
o Really??

Gibberish, only add them if to low


o I thought the Water Changes would keep that in line.

You are correct

 

[Boomer]

I'd highly recommend switching to ESV salt.

Why ? A salt does not make or break a tank, it is the user not understanding the issue of change, when switching salt mixes, not that Bobs salt mix is not a good one, as it is.

 

[ryangrieder]

I'd highly recommend switching to ESV salt.

Why ? A salt does not make or break a tank, it is the user not understanding the issue of change, when switching salt mixes, not that Bobs salt mix is not a good one, as it is.

because the day i did switch to it, and just like almost everyone else on this site said, the day they switched to esv, there tank never looked so good. yes if you break it down to water pars and all it is similiar to other compititions and blah blah, but the day i started using ESV is the day i noticed my tank FINALLY looked like all others out there. it went from a nice tank to a professional display looking tank. i dont care what others say, to me, RC is garbage. everytime i use to use it i had to buff my magnesium higher and calcium. and my ph would adjust with it. and after a water change...it did not looks better at all. everytime i do a water change with ESV salt, about an hour later i can look at the tank and say WOW, everything looked great before, but now it just has that spark again that was missing. plus my calcium level did not adjust and magnesium always stays high with it. and its not just me, i remember multible threads on here with many other members saying the exact same thing i am. there has to be something special about using ESV, other wise when salt threads are made on this site asking what you use, 85-90% of users are claiming they are using ESV and will only use ESV. if it was just like all others...i think it would be a better mix, not 90% of members using ESV

 

[Cris007]

+1....+1...lol

 

[Cris007]

+1...Boomer

 

[Boomer]

but the day i started using ESV is the day i noticed my tank FINALLY looked like all others out there.

Like I posted, not understanding what happen when you switch, you created a major shift in their environmental chemsitry.

everytime i use to use it i had to buff my magnesium higher and calcium.

Maybe you mix to fast and to warm, ever think of that.

I find that almost silly as RC the Ca++ is on the order 490 and the Mg++ 1450, way above NSW.

verything looked great before, but now it just has that spark again that was missing.

Again not understanding what really happen. One could do the same using some other salt and switching to RC, which has been done so your remark has no merit. If you look at most of the specular reef tanks in the world most by a long shot use IO or RC. So, we can say you are not doing things right correct ?

here has to be something special about

No there is nothing that special and is a claim made by many, on many salt mixes, when they switch and just ESV user.

85-90% of users are claiming

And of all the people on this forum how many is that ? In Europe it is the same numbers for DD-H2O. So, why not switch to that salt and it is made by RS but many claim RS is garbage.

 

[Bhartman67]

Thanks for you feedback Boomer.

I agree with almost everything.

Except the PH. I cannot add a PH because I have water flowing over all 4 sides of my tank. I cannot add in a cord becuase it would disrupt the water flow.

I will attach a video soon. Trying to make it smaller...:biglaugh:

? Add our Additives
o Currently I am dosing Calcium and ALK every day

I hope only if needed

Yes to maintain 490-500 CA and 11 DKH.

o Concerned my live rock is turning white on top? Should I need to worry?

Got a pic
See the second pic. That is supposed to be a Red Planet more of a Beige Planet.

Thanks Again


Thanks

 

[Boomer]

I have water flowing over all 4 sides of my tank. I cannot add in a cord because it would disrupt the water flow.

OK, now I understand

There is no reason to run Ca++, Mg++ or Alk that high. You can have allot of precip issues both abiotic and biotic and may be why that rock is white. I hope you are not one on that bad bandwagon " I want it that high so I do not have to add any additives." But you are dosing, daily, so stop till that Alk is more like 8-10, Ca++ 400 -420 and Mg ++ ~ 1300 - 1325. Corals DO NOT benefit from levels that high.

Red Planet more of a Beige Planet.

Which can vary, if there is a **** from the environment it came from, i.e., lighting or water chemistry, where that shift may be days or weeks.

 

[irocz2280]

So i am using oceanic salt and was thinking of switching to esv Should i? I am running a calc. reactor keeping my levels 450 ca. and 9.4 on alk. 1280 mag i am unning a fuge and have 0 problems with high phos,nitrate,or any other chem. problems i have noticed the green film algae on my glass needs to be cleaned everyday though any thoughts ?

 

[Bhartman67]

Help...

So I bought all the fancy test kits.

Confirmed what I kinda knew.....

Alkalinity 193ppm (Hanna) 11 DKH
Phosphate .03ppm (Hanna)
Calcium 506ppm (Hanna)
Magnesium 1170ppm (Salfert)

Yeah i know the magnesium is a little low. Started dosing ESV magnesium today 75ml per day. Will 1300 make that much of a difference?

Raising the lights 5% per day for just the blue for the last two weeks. Corals didn't like it. Green birdnet is turning white, I think I almost killed it. Purple Stilo has whiteish areas on it. Brain coral (the toughest one) is losing color on top.

Took lights back down.

I don't get it.

Very Frustrated.

arrggghhhhh.

 

[Boomer]

Iro

There is no reason to switch salts your parameters are very good. I see you have only 15 posts here, so is this a new tank and are you new to the hobby ? New tanks often have films of alage on the glass, usually diatoms than will go in time.




Bill

No, raising the Mg+ is not going to make things better and will have little impact.

What do you mean raising the lights ? You moved them higher up or you raised their on time ?

Yes to maintain 490-500 CA and 11 DKH.

You need to stop trying to maintain such high levels and it may be part of your problem.

 

[irocz2280]

No it is not a new tank been running for 4 years now i recently moved though but i kept 75% of the water and kept all the rock wet during the move. those were my levels as of Sun. this week 2 weeks after the move so idk whats up my phosphates are undetectable by my hanna meter. and no nitrates also. I am just new to manhattan reefs and don't get on here a lot.

Iro

There is no reason to switch salts your parameters are very good. I see you have only 15 posts here, so is this a new tank and are you new to the hobby ? New tanks often have films of alage on the glass, usually diatoms than will go in time.




Bill

No, raising the Mg+ is not going to make things better and will have little impact.

What do you mean raising the lights ? You moved them higher up or you raised their on time ?

Yes to maintain 490-500 CA and 11 DKH.

You need to stop trying to maintain such high levels and it may be part of your problem.