Piranh & Deep
Today, I feel like a complete STUPID ass. In regards to using SA as a sole buffer, some of the improved 2-parts do just that. They are for those that have continuing low pH issues, as many have. The two-part with just BS or combo's of SA and BS are for those with more normal seawater pH. However, with just SA, one still needs to be careful.
SA as sole buffer
It will tend to raise pH due to its alkalinity part's elevated pH, as do most of the commercial two-part additives. The increase in pH depends on the aquarium's alkalinity and, of course, on how much is added. Adding on the order of 0.5 meq/L of alkalinity increases the pH by about 0.3 pH units immediately upon its addition (and even higher, locally, before it has a chance to mix throughout the aquarium).
This^ is saying be careful.
I'm lucky somebody did not beat me to death with this error I made on those posts. I for one SHOULD know better.
Pirah
that ATO water Is putting almost a gallon a day of fresh 7.0 and in time will affect my tank Ph and water par. So thinking of adding Kalk in ATO. That should help Ph and use less 2 parts. What do you recommend I should use in my doser if I still have replace Alk.
No, adding ATO water with a pH of ~ 7 has about nil impact on pH. This is because evaporated water does not remove the buffer. So, the buffer is still there. The reason buffers are added to ATO is for one who needs to get up their Alk or pH. Meaning, if your pH and Alk was constant, you would see no shift in the pH or Alk from pH ATO water addition.
Yes, it is always a good idea to add Kalk to ATO water most of the time.
Deep
Besides the fact that our aquariums are trapped indoors what causes high levels of CO2 in the aquarium?
First, the trapped in-door CO2. When the in-door CO2 pressure is higher in the air than the tank, it is like taking a garden hose to your tank and adding water to it. Pretend you have a inter tube filled with air. If you stuck the valve steam in the tank a removed core most of that air in the tube would enter the tank until the pressure in the tube equals that of the tank. And that is what high in-door CO2 does. All the aeration you try, skimmer, high circulation, etc., can not help, unless the CO2 pressure in the tank is less than the air. Pretend you have a tire with 30 psi and need to add air to get it to 40 psi. Well, if your air pump can not put out more than 35 psi, you will never get it to 40 psi. At times aeration can actually lower you pH, as it drives in more CO2. CO2 enters a tank very easily but it is allot harder to drive off CO2 from the water. If you took a glass of water and put a pH probe in it or some pH indicator, then blew in the glass with a straw, the pH will drop immediately and the indicator will change to a low ph color. If you know try to dive off that CO2 it will take hrs., to get back to the pH you had.
Second, tanks, sumps, etc., that are over feed, to many animals, dirty, etc., produce CO2 from reactions during their chemical break down. And CO2 can be generated faster than it can leave the tank. So, poor circulation, aeration, etc, helps little and can make it worse.
I also use Light defuser panels (egg crate) to cover my tank top so it is able to for lack of a better word "breath" .
Yes, enclosed tops often not a bright idea.