Copper removal from LR&LS

[SethKim]

Hi Boomer,
First of all, I would like to acknowledge your contribution to this site and furthermore to this hobby. The depth of scientific knowledge that you bring to this hobby is truly amazing. I've read all your threads here and learned whole lot more than what I have anticipated. What scares me is that I actually understood majority of your discussion.

15 years in this hobby, and for the first time, I've treated my FOWLR tank with Copper. The treatment is going on right now, but as I prepare to remove copper, now I'm doing some reading as to how to safe and effectively remove copper from the system, including Live rock.

Could you kindly explain things like
what is chelated copper, what elements does copper react with that are found in the salt water, bound form vs. free form, how does muriatic acid react with copper to form what compound and how dangerous is muriatic acid and how to safely remove, and hole lot more that you would like to share...

Thank you ahead!

 

[strgazr27]

I could be wrong but the copper is now a permanent part of the tank. The rocks could be rinsed to remove it but unless there is some chemical for fowlr that copper there to stay in some form or another.
See what Boom says

 

[Flushtown Reefer]

It is now permanant.. carbon will pull alot out but not all.. when you sell your rocks and tank, you'll have to mention it was copper treated... that's why I suggested you go the hyposalinity route on your other thread

 

[jaa1456]

Copper does not stay in the tank, maybe the rocks, but not the tank. I had a fowlr 125 years ago and treated it with copper several times. I then emptied the tank after 5 years of running and being treated with copper. Washed the tank down really good several times, filled it back up and turned it into a reef tank. It ran for 3 years with no problems to any corals or inverts at all. I also did the same exact thing with a 75 gallon, but that tank ran for 12 years as a reef with no problems either.

 

[albano]

I had a fowlr 125 years ago

I think that this is the 5 millionth time, that you exaggerated about something!

 

[jaa1456]

I think that this is the 5 millionth time, that you exaggerated about something!

I see the typo it was suppose to be a 125 tank

 

[Boomer]

Seth

The tank by itself will be fine(see below). The rock is another issue and depends on what Cooper you are using. Free Cooper is adsorbed and bound onto the carbonate surface and other surfaces just like calcium does. Chelated and or Complexed Coopers due little binding to carbonate surfaces. The chelation or complexion helps keep the Cooper in solution, so it does not precipitate out on to things like carbonate rocks. In short, the Cooper is surrounded by a chemical ring that does two things. 1., Keeps it in solution and reduces binding 2. Makes it less effective than free Cooper, like that from Cooper Sulfate, where in solution the Cooper leaves / detaches itself from the Sulfate. Cheated Coopers can thus be run at higher Cooper levels but at the same time are less toxic but safer. But don't think that chealated or complexed coopers can not cause issues. Some of the chealated / complexed Copper will break down and can be adsorbed onto carbonate rocks and other surfaces. Some may/ will also settle out on the bottom/SB and can be broken down by reactions or low pH and raise the Cooper level back up which can be quite high and deadly. Chealated/Complexed Coopers are also harder to remove than free Cooper with chemical filtration like GAC.



Muriatic acid does not bind with Cooper to make compounds. The very low pH of the acid dissolves the carbonate rock and/or breaks it down on other surfaces. This removes most of the Cooper bound to carbonate or other surfaces. The rock/sand/gravel has to be removed for this and soaked in the acid. Attempting this in a tank will kill all of anything very quickly.

The safest way is to just throw away the LR/sand/gravel. MT the tank and rinse with FW. Then get a Windex spray bottle and fill with Vinegar or dilute muriatic acid and spray down all the walls and anything that has had contact with water, ie, tubing, pumps, fillers, skimmers, etc. Them rinse them again well in FW. This will remove any Cooper bound or stuck to the glass, equipment.

 

[SethKim]

Thank you guys & Boomer for your kind information!

I've had this tank running over 11 years, and some of the fish like percula clowns and hippo tangs are as old as my tank! Purple tang 13 yrs, emperor angel 6yrs etc, so they are very personal!
I've been dying to remove some scratches and buff out the tank, so taking out the rock & sand to rinse in HCl isn't too much of a hassle!
Time to hookup my wet/dry to my sump ^^

Again thank you guys, I do really appreciate your comments and input

sincerely,