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beachorama

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So it's getting to be canopy time.

Thought I would do something similar to Bueller's nice canopy outline that has the L-shaped front:

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum...iy-canopy-anyone-who-wants-upside-down-l.html

A few questions...

1) Any advantages to the canopy going over the tank bracing vs. sitting on top of the bracing?

2) Is venting the back better than creating a vent on top of the canopy (using some sort of netting?)

3) If the front opens up... how can you prevent it from sliding backwards off the tank?


thanks

:bagfish:
 
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1) If it sits on top of the bracing it can slide/get pushed off accidentally.

2) The back is usually left open because it makes it lighter, can't be seen so wires can be routed easily, is better than just making vent holes. Depending on the setup you may want to also vent the top anyway though.

3) You can put down a non-slip material on top of the tank bracing if you're nervous but usually the weight of it will keep it in place if it's over the brace and not just resting on top.
 

ming

LE Coral Killer
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So it's getting to be canopy time.

Thought I would do something similar to Bueller's nice canopy outline that has the L-shaped front:

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum...iy-canopy-anyone-who-wants-upside-down-l.html

A few questions...

1) Any advantages to the canopy going over the tank bracing vs. sitting on top of the bracing?

2) Is venting the back better than creating a vent on top of the canopy (using some sort of netting?)

3) If the front opens up... how can you prevent it from sliding backwards off the tank?


thanks

:bagfish:
1) The diagram shows the canopy going around the tank, and small pegs coming out to sit on top of the tank. This is done because if the whole canopy was on the rim, it can easily be pushed 1" and fall partially into the tank diagonally
2) venting back or top is fine, but the reason why that diagram shows the back vented instead is probably more for structural stability.
3) In that diagram, you can't, but you'd have to slide it at least 6" forward or backwards to fall since its 12" wide which is pretty significant. But if you're concerned about that, you can easily cut the very front panel, 1" on either side (so 1" x height) and screw it to the sides.
Basically, cut where I marked in red, and those 2 ends are screwed into the side pieces and not the top.
956997
 

beachorama

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1) If it sits on top of the bracing it can slide/get pushed off accidentally.
Makes sense

2) The back is usually left open because it makes it lighter, can't be seen so wires can be routed easily, is better than just making vent holes. Depending on the setup you may want to also vent the top anyway though.

Would "jumpers" make it though the back open space?

3) You can put down a non-slip material on top of the tank bracing if you're nervous but usually the weight of it will keep it in place if it's over the brace and not just resting on top

Yeh, i was thinking something like that.

Cool, Thanks
 

beachorama

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1) The diagram shows the canopy going around the tank, and small pegs coming out to sit on top of the tank. This is done because if the whole canopy was on the rim, it can easily be pushed 1" and fall partially into the tank diagonally
2) venting back or top is fine, but the reason why that diagram shows the back vented instead is probably more for structural stability.
3) In that diagram, you can't, but you'd have to slide it at least 6" forward or backwards to fall since its 12" wide which is pretty significant. But if you're concerned about that, you can easily cut the very front panel, 1" on either side (so 1" x height) and screw it to the sides.
Basically, cut where I marked in red, and those 2 ends are screwed into the side pieces and not the top.
956997

Couldn't see the image... but i think i know what you mean.

Good point on the bracing...should be enough "leeway" if it slides a bit.

Than you!
 

KathyC

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http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/28418-120-toes-2.html

See post 36, a fairly simple canopy to build ...even a girl could do it :flirt:

That canopy hasn't moved a hair since I installed it either.

If you are worried about fish jumping, you can put mesh covers on the tank under the canopy. They are also pictured on the thread , but much easier to build the ones using the screen frames.
Demo videos can be found here for those:
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/77035-tank-cover-building-demonstration.html
 

beachorama

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Thanks KathyC... that's a great canopy built, and just the type I was planning.

1 question) Is it better to have the hinges inside (like yours = looks nicer) or keep them outside on top so nothing rusts?


PS: Beautiful tank!:goldfish2
 

KathyC

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Thanks KathyC... that's a great canopy built, and just the type I was planning.

1 question) Is it better to have the hinges inside (like yours = looks nicer) or keep them outside on top so nothing rusts?


PS: Beautiful tank!:goldfish2

Thanks :)
The hinges are stainless..just peeked at them, still no rust, worth the extra cost :)
 

Awibrandy

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Far Rockaway
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hi beachorama, the hinges on my canopy are piano hinges. I did not build the canopy, a friend did.;) The hinges were initial on the inside, and did rust within the first 2 years. When I replaced them I placed them on the outside, where they have not rusted to this day. I don't even see the hinges unless I get up on a step ladder.
My canopy is just about completely sealed. It has 2 4" fans, and an opening in the center of the top which accommodates the light fixture.
It was built in this fashion because I was heavily in to jumpers.;)
 

beachorama

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hi beachorama, the hinges on my canopy are piano hinges. I did not build the canopy, a friend did.;) The hinges were initial on the inside, and did rust within the first 2 years. When I replaced them I placed them on the outside, where they have not rusted to this day. I don't even see the hinges unless I get up on a step ladder.
My canopy is just about completely sealed. It has 2 4" fans, and an opening in the center of the top which accommodates the light fixture.
It was built in this fashion because I was heavily in to jumpers.;)

Thanks for your insight.

I will see if i can get stainless steel, if not, i will probably go the outside route.

Will kinda wing-it.

1 more ??? for anyone: Did you paint the hinges or just leave them as it?
 

KathyC

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Thanks for your insight.

I will see if i can get stainless steel, if not, i will probably go the outside route.

Will kinda wing-it.

1 more ??? for anyone: Did you paint the hinges or just leave them as it?

HD & Lowes carry the stainless ones.

Unpainted, who would want to ever unscrew a piano hinge that was painted over....argh...

Are you painting the canopy or staining it? If an Oak stain, I am sure I still have the can somewhere and could let you know the color that matches the stock AGA oak stand..if that is what you happen to have!

Do post up some pics when you build it! :)
 

beachorama

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HD & Lowes carry the stainless ones.

Unpainted, who would want to ever unscrew a piano hinge that was painted over....argh...

Are you painting the canopy or staining it? If an Oak stain, I am sure I still have the can somewhere and could let you know the color that matches the stock AGA oak stand..if that is what you happen to have!

Do post up some pics when you build it! :)

Oh thank you for the kind offer!
ut I have a black iron stand so I have some black latex paint I will use for the outside.

( Yes, makes sense about the hinges! )

thanks
 

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