Skimmer stand and sump

[kimoyo]

Here's my new skimmer stand with my new sump sitting on top. Made both a few weekends ago.

The sump is made out of 3/8" cast acrylic and measures 23.75"*20.5"*18.5".

 

[epares]

Looking Good !-- Howz your new skimmer working?-- I have to post some pics of your old Deltec in action in my tank!--E

 

[herman]

Nice Clean work dude!!! Look forward to see it all hooked up

 

[masterswimmer]

Paul, very nice job. Q for you. Why so many bubble traps?

swimmer

 

[herman]

Paul, very nice job. Q for you. Why so many bubble traps?

swimmer

Judging by his pump it will be a high flow sump.

 

[kimoyo]

Emiliano - Whats up! Glad you got water in the tank! The skimmer is doing much better with the stand. Allows me to run alot more water and air thru it now that its elevated.

Herman - Thanks! Once I get a miter saw I'll finish covering up my stands .

Russ - Hey man, hope your doing well. Too many bubbles from the skimmer, it actuallys needs a few more baffles :lol2:. In a few months I might make another one thats longer if I can't get the bubbles straight without using socks or foam.

 

[masterswimmer]

Hey Paul, thanks for the well wishes. That's some crazy flow you've got if five baffles don't eliminate the bubbles. What's running your skimmer?

R

 

[kimoyo]

Hey Paul, thanks for the well wishes. That's some crazy flow you've got if five baffles don't eliminate the bubbles. What's running your skimmer?

R

Sequence hammerhead . I'll try to get some pics with the skimmer running later this week. Its handles the bubbles better than my last sump but I really don't want any bubbles returning to the tank and I'm confined to a certain space.

 

[meschaefer]

paul-

nice job on the sump, that's alot of baffles. and your still having bubble problems. Maybe you don't need more baffles, just need to slow the water down as it moves through them. The closer the baffles are to each other the faster the water needs move through them. The faster it moves, the more likely the bubbles will be pulled through as opposed to popping at the surface.

Question.. I see in the thread that you need the miter saw to finish covering your stands. I might not be envisioning this right, but it seems that "covering" your stands would call for long straight cuts. A miter saw, even with a slide, is limited in the length of the cut. Perhaps a table saw is what you need. Or I can be completely wrong, in which case you can tell me to go pi$$ off.

 

[kimoyo]

nice job on the sump, that's alot of baffles. and your still having bubble problems. Maybe you don't need more baffles, just need to slow the water down as it moves through them. The closer the baffles are to each other the faster the water needs move through them. The faster it moves, the more likely the bubbles will be pulled through as opposed to popping at the surface.

Thats a good point and I had been thinking about that. I was trying to conserve space but if I did it again I would definitely make the down sections wider at least. I would also make the first compartment taller and stagger the height of the three sections with the last section being the shortest.

Question.. I see in the thread that you need the miter saw to finish covering your stands. I might not be envisioning this right, but it seems that "covering" your stands would call for long straight cuts. A miter saw, even with a slide, is limited in the length of the cut. Perhaps a table saw is what you need. Or I can be completely wrong, in which case you can tell me to go pi$$ off.

lol

I was planning on attaching a wood outline to the metal stand that the plywood would attach to. The biggest piece of wood for that would be a 1*6 or 2*6. So the miter saw would be okay. And for the plywood, the longest side I need have would be 25" with the way I'm attaching the doors. The sliding miters do around 15-16" so I thought I could flip the wood over (can I?). Plus I don't have room for a table saw right now.

 

[meschaefer]

I was planning on attaching a wood outline to the metal stand that the plywood would attach to. The biggest piece of wood for that would be a 1*6 or 2*6. So the miter saw would be okay. And for the plywood, the longest side I need have would be 25" with the way I'm attaching the doors. The sliding miters do around 15-16" so I thought I could flip the wood over (can I?). Plus I don't have room for a table saw right now.

You can flip the wood over, but it is really tricky to get a clean cut. If the longest side is 25", what is the width of the board?

 

[kimoyo]

I haven't measured everything exactly but it will be around 25"*25".

 

[bad coffee]

a circular saw and a straight edge will give you much cleaner cuts. Plus, you can make sure it's square. I've tried the flip over on a sliding miter and it ended up angled. Unless the saw is DEAD on, you'll end up with a wonky cut. Even a small fraction of a degree out and it won't be square.

B

 

[meschaefer]

a circular saw and a straight edge will give you much cleaner cuts. Plus, you can make sure it's square. I've tried the flip over on a sliding miter and it ended up angled. Unless the saw is DEAD on, you'll end up with a wonky cut. Even a small fraction of a degree out and it won't be square.

B

I second that. For cuts of that size, I use a square as a straight edge and use a circular saw to make the cut.

 

[masterswimmer]

Paul, there is an attachment you can put on your circular saw called a rip fence. This will attach to the base plate of your saw and slide along the edge of the sheet of plywood you're looking to rip/crosscut as your guide.

In all honesty though, the best, most accurate way to cut plywood is with either a table saw or panel saw (very prohibitive due to space and cost....used in commercial applications). That leaves the table saw as your most accurate option.

hth,
R

 

[kimoyo]

Thanks for the info guys, I have to think about it more. I'm leaning towards getting a table saw now but the miter saw seems sooo practical.

I'm also thinking about building another sump but I don't want to do it and still get bubbles. I'm thinking socks might be the only solution for me.