Sump Design - Please tell me where you see mistakes

[o2manyfish]

Hey All,

I am designing a new sump. This will be placed outside. Currently the display tank is one a 125H. But once this sump is done and working, the 125H will be replaced with a 300 inside. The sump will be only 4 feet away from the tank, and they will be at the same level.

The sump is based on a 100g Truvu tank.

Pump is a Dolphin 3000.

The Refuge, is almost a tank within a tank, this way (in theory) the refuge will get slow flow and not the full onslaught of total flow. The

Dolphin will have only 4' of head, will be running 1.5" plumbing through a Hayward 1.5" motorized ball valve, straight run, only 1 elbow on each side of tank to enter bulkhead.

Please critque away, So speak now or forever hold your leaks !!!

Thanks for all the forthcoming knowledge.

 

[wade1]

Looks like a good plan, although I am uncertain about the fluid bed?

Everything else looks like it will work out great... will you have a large enough return line to handle a horizontal flow (no gravity) from the main tank to the sump?

Wade

 

[SeanT]

WHen you say "This will be placed outside.". Do you mean that literally?
As in outside of your house?
If so you will encounter huge problems there.

 

[o2manyfish]

I am sorry - I need to Clarify. When I meant the same level I mean the same floor level. So many people have big sumps in their basements. The tank is on a 32" stand and the sump is on a 4" stand. So Gravity feed should not be a problem.

There will be 3 2" Return lines.


Yes this sump is going to be sitting outside the house on a concrete patio. Once the plumbing is completed the sump wil be enclosed in a stucco cabinent to become part of the Built in BBQ counter top.

The only thing I have not figured out is a design to have a tiled countertop that can be removed or lifted safely to be able to access the big items from the top.

Inside the sump counter/cabinet is a RO feed for Top Off, Hose Spigot for Fast Fill, and a sewer line dump. (2 Dedicated GFI Circuits of course)

The wood for the bottom of the cabinet is Marine Treated and sealed from the mill, and then I will waterproof it again. The sides of the cabinet will be concrete backer board. The top supporting the counter will be a synthetic wood product for framing and then concerete backer board.

Both ends will have ventilation for 220v fans running at 110v. I have been doing this for years, it gives a nice airflow but the fans are absolutely silent and make no noise.