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05dr

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The tank is a 125 gallon fresh water (gasp!). I am a total rookie when it come to plumbing and have many questions regarding how to optimize flow. I have a HOB prefilter with 2 1” PVC drains (Marine life Aqatics – uses 2x 1 ¼” u tubes, rated by the manufacturer as being able to drain 1500 gph although I have my doubts), a 30 gallon acrylic sump which I plan to add 2 1” bulkheads to, and a submersible return pump with a 1” barb return(1640 gph with a max head of 13’ 5”).

1. What size return tubing should I use to reduce head and what is the best way to step down diameters to ¾ or ½ inch returns?
2. How many return outlets can I use and what diameter is best? I would like to use the loc-line returns (1/2” or ¾”) with flared nozzles in an effort to prevent detritus from settling on the bottom and create some chaotic water movement.
3. Can I mate clear u-tubes to pvc to come over the back of the aquarium for the returns? If not then what is the best way to return water over the back side of an aquarium?
4. What is the best way to mount airline check valves in the siphoning u tubes? I understand the hole drilling on top but what should I use to glue it? Will standard silicone work?
5. I am planning on using both a check valve and a hole in the return pipes(just below the water line) to prevent back siphoning. Should the check valve come before or after the ball valve on the return and which model of check valve will work best mounted in the vertical position?
6. Although flex-pvc seems easy enough on the return I was wondering if vinyl attached to insertes would be adequate for the drains?

Thanks in advance for any help and feel free to ask more questions if I was unclear.
 
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05dr":32a251xl said:
The tank is a 125 gallon fresh water
  • *HOB prefilter with 2 1” PVC drains
    *(Marine life Aqatics – uses 2x 1 ¼” u tubes, rated by the manufacturer as being able to drain 1500 gph)
    *30 gallon acrylic sump...to add 2 1” bulkheads
    *submersible return pump with a 1” barb return(1640 gph with a max head of 13’ 5”)
first, is this an acrylic tank? any place you have acrylic married to pvc wants to be treated "special". i haven't worked with acrylic much, except to repair for my own needs.
i think you ought to be able to test those pump and return rates without setting the whole system up - i've built most stuff myself so haven't had the "luxury" of manufacturer's specs. the 1640gph is at 13'5" head? or is that a max head and a max gph? you aren't going to take it up to 13'5" head, are you?
diagrams are the best way for me to sort it out, i haven't the brain for the math, though i'm sure there's an actual method to this madness. you need a plumber! LOL!!

1. What size return tubing should I use to reduce head and what is the best way to step down diameters to ¾ or ½ inch returns?

it's not clear to me what you mean when you say "to reduce head", cuz i interpret head as height only, and at that point it doesn't really matter what size tubing, i just go with what i have.

2. How many return outlets can I use and what diameter is best? I would like to use the loc-line returns (1/2” or ¾”) with flared nozzles in an effort to prevent detritus from settling on the bottom and create some chaotic water movement.

i'll suggest a minimum of four, six might be better.

3. Can I mate clear u-tubes to pvc to come over the back of the aquarium for the returns? If not then what is the best way to return water over the back side of an aquarium?

never used anything other than pvc, can't answer that question. i'd experiment with the glues used for pvc, then with silicone, and would probably end up sticking with pvc only (you ought to be able to find black, which isn't so sore on the eyes).

4. What is the best way to mount airline check valves in the siphoning u tubes? I understand the hole drilling on top but what should I use to glue it? Will standard silicone work?

yep, 100% pure. make sure everything's clean. actually, i like to use (if we're talking about acrylic here) cyanoacrlyate bonded with (sorry, can't remember the name of the actual chemical right now) the catalyst used for acrylic nails. it's how i've sealed several acrylic tanks that cracked, salt AND fresh, and they all STILL hold water to this day. there's a pretty good chemical reaction between the cyanoacrylate (that's superglue - LIQUID ONLY, not the gel crap), especially on hot, dry days (like we're having here in so.cal.) and it heats up somethin' fierce, the acrylic melts into place making a most excellent seal.

5. I am planning on using both a check valve and a hole in the return pipes(just below the water line) to prevent back siphoning. Should the check valve come before or after the ball valve on the return and which model of check valve will work best mounted in the vertical position?

sorry, i'm not sure what you mean by model, i've only seen one type of check valve, what does your supplier have to say? wish i could be of more help there, but i'm glad to hear you're using your head and INSTALLING a check valve! i like to install the checks after the valve, in case i need to take apart the plumbing at the valve but still need flow, but that's just me. i should warn you i'm a peculiar sort and haven't exactly been "formally" trained.

6. Although flex-pvc seems easy enough on the return I was wondering if vinyl attached to insertes would be adequate for the drains?

again, i'm not sure what you mean. have you got a diagram, or are you not sure about the material itself? see, i can tell you this much, whenever you're trying to marry dissimilar materials you've got to use the right product (in this case glue) for the job. i'm certain these products exist (to marry pvc w/acrylic, yeah?), but i can't tell you what they're called. get yourself to google and look up the specific materials you wish to work with. bug the manufacturer, don't be afraid to call fabricators (get thee a subscription to freshwater and marine aquarium magazine!) and bug the bejesus outta them, either.

lordy, i hope this is of SOME help! and i hope i've worked my html right! LOL!!! :lol:
 

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